2003 Toyota with 2007 Eagle Shell

[super doody]

Hi All,

Its done. After years of thinking and looking, I'm finally a FWC owner I purchased a 2007 Eagle shell from someone in Nevada. With a wad of cash and 4 hrs of sleep I made the 1,100 mile round trip drive from the SF Bay Area to Nevada starting on 5 am on Sat. day morning.

I got to the seller's house around 3 pm. I inspected the camper and found it to be in the same condition as it was described in the ad. There were some minor blemishes here and there but nothing major caught my eye. I thought some of the finishings was kinda of cheap. The buyer pointed out some scratches under the pull out bed. He told me there were all sort of metal shavings from the factory and didn't notice till he pull out the bed a few times. The only added option was a roll-over couch so nothing else to inspect.

First Stop.

Home Depot. Despite, reading and studying a number of posts about anchor bolt locations and getting some advice from FWC, the eye bolt locations I drilled out were too far away for the turnbuckles. I some how knew this would happen so I brought with me 4 tie down straps. Luckily, Home Depot was only about 15 mins away. I bought 4 of these carabiner style quick links and a head light so the turn buckles could be used.

I left the tie down straps in place as a secondary safety measure

I could immediately feel the weight the wheel of the camper. Luckily, my 7 leaf Deavers Leaf pack was able to handle the load without hitting the bump stops. I will be upgrade to the 10 pack soon.

After Home Depot, i grabbed a Subway Sandwich and got out of Nevada as fast I could. I felt like a zombie and drove till mid. I was originally planning to camp near Red Rock State park but it was pitch dark and I've been on the road since 5 am I pulled in a dirt lot at rest stop near Boron and called it a night.

Here is a picture from the morning:

I finally made it home at 2 pm today.

I can't wait to starting building out/customizing the camper.

Here is a list of basic stuff I need to do first:


1. Order corner jacks, fab extension plates and dolly for the garage.
2. Order proper eye bolts with shoulders. I may re-drill attachment points to eliminate the carabiner like quick links.
2. Send my leaf pack to Deaver's to be rebuilt
3. Brainstorm, plan and execute storage and organization strategy

Lastly, I just wanted to say thanks for the all members of this forum for all the information and advice. And of course Kcowyo for the inspiration.

Jim

 

[ski3pin]

Congrats on the new camper!

 

[SLO_F-250]

Congrats Jim! Looking forward to see what you do with it. Cheers!

 

[WaltK]

Hi All,

Its done. After years of thinking and looking, I'm finally a FWC owner



2. Order proper eye bolts with shoulders. I may re-drill attachment points to eliminate the carabiner like quick links.

Jim


Congrats on the new toy

Here's the type eye bolt setup I used for my Ranger:
http://www.discountramps.com/cargo-tie-downs.htm
They have the advantage that it's easy to remove the eyes if using the truck for something else, and the part that remains is stainless steel. Worry more about the geometry of the anchor locations than that you may use links. FWC uses the heavier links that screw lock when installing if need be. Get the measurements for where the anchors should be from FWC. FWC uses open eyed turnbuckles with aluminum bodies. You can find various lengths of turnbuckles with forged eyes and all the rest if you are worried about strength.

But remember in the camper the eyes all that is pulling on are mounted on a single layer of wood (plywood). You don't need more strength than it would take to pull that out.

Planning, deciding what to do with the shell is the fun part. Lots of tricky decisions.

 

[super doody]

Congrats on the new toy

Here's the type eye bolt setup I used for my Ranger:
http://www.discountramps.com/cargo-tie-downs.htm
They have the advantage that it's easy to remove the eyes if using the truck for something else, and the part that remains is stainless steel. Worry more about the geometry of the anchor locations than that you may use links. FWC uses the heavier links that screw lock when installing if need be. Get the measurements for where the anchors should be from FWC. FWC uses open eyed turnbuckles with aluminum bodies. You can find various lengths of turnbuckles with forged eyes and all the rest if you are worried about strength.


But remember in the camper the eyes all that is pulling on are mounted on a single layer of wood (plywood). You don't need more strength than it would take to pull that out.

Planning, deciding what to do with the shell is the fun part. Lots of tricky decisions.



Thanks Walt. I will get the measurements. I wonder if the eye bolt locations on the camper changes based on the truck.

 

[Overland Hadley]

Congratulations!

Fun to read your report of picking up the camper, sounds like it went fairly smoothly. I also spent my first night in the camper at a rest stop.



I wonder if the eye bolt locations on the camper changes based on the truck.


I know that on the new campers the mounting points are different if the camper is going on a Gen2 Tacoma.

 

[Espresso]

With regard to the Dolly, I have my Grandby on large casters mounted to 1x12's. I plan to build a "box" the same size at the bottom of the camper that will keep the camper about 2 feet off the ground. This will make it easier to climb in and out of the camper when it is off the truck and require much less cranking when loading and unloading.

Also, I don't know if you find this to be true, but I find it much too easy to hit my head on the door jam when the camper is low. Pisses me off every time it happens.

 

[super doody]

Congratulations!

Fun to read your report of picking up the camper, sounds like it went fairly smoothly. I also spent my first night in the camper at a rest stop.






I know that on the new campers the mounting points are different if the camper is going on a Gen2 Tacoma.



Thanks Nathanael. Your thread on Expo was also an inspiration for me getting the camper You are right on the eye bolt locations on the camper. I assumed the eye bolt locations on the campers were always the same for the model line. I spoke with Terry and Stan today. Each camper is customized for the truck. For example, my camper is coming off an 2007 tacoma which had higher bedsides so on my truck which is late model tacoma 2003, there is a gap about 3 inches which is according to Stan a couple of inches more than what it would be if the camper was made for my 2003. The draw back are the looks and aerodynamics. But on the flip side, if ever wanted a newer model tacoma, my current camper would fit. I'm think about adding some storage for fishing poles to fill in the gap with about 1'' for clearance.

So the moral of the story is if you are buying a used camper and going from early model truck year to late model truck year, even if its the same model and make, there will be some differences in the overal dimension of the camper.

 

[WaltK]

Thanks Nathanael. Your thread on Expo was also an inspiration for me getting the camper You are right on the eye bolt locations on the camper. I assumed the eye bolt locations on the campers were always the same for the model line. I spoke with Terry and Stan today. Each camper is customized for the truck. For example, my camper is coming off an 2007 tacoma which had higher bedsides so on my truck which is late model tacoma 2003, there is a gap about 3 inches which is according to Stan a couple of inches more than what it would be if the camper was made for my 2003. The draw back are the looks and aerodynamics. But on the flip side, if ever wanted a newer model tacoma, my current camper would fit. I'm think about adding some storage for fishing poles to fill in the gap with about 1'' for clearance.

So the moral of the story is if you are buying a used camper and going from early model truck year to late model truck year, even if its the same model and make, there will be some differences in the overall dimension of the camper.


When I picked mine up I also had such problems. I'd put the eye bolt locations in where they would be right for a 2007 Eagle that was built for a Ford Ranger, and I was buying a Eagle originally built for a Toyota with the new beds that require special adjustments. I had to come up with really long turnbuckle setups to reach the eyes, also detoured to Home Depot. After I got it home I put in Ford Ranger located Eye Bolts in the camper, so no long term problems and it's now anchored like it would have been built for the Ranger. I just added extra eye anchors to the camper to do this, leaving the out of place "toyota" eyes in place.

Even between the shell and regular models lots of difference, particularly in the frame. I have wondered where that height variation gets evened out. Is there variation all the way through to the roof, or variation in inside wall height or something? Inside, the top wood "shelf" on mine is 17" off the floor where it would be much less if it was built for the Ranger.

I'm using the extra side gap on my 2007 Eagle shell (made for a toyota) and my 2000 Ranger bed sides to route the air intake and exhaust tubes from the Propex 2800 heater to the outside. Makes the install much easier to go that way than trying to route out the regular camper sides. I've got over 4" of clearance there. If instead I used one of the factory furnaces there is no gap in the frame to match it, probably because it's a shell model. So it can be an adventure.

I also have a good size gap between the overhead and truck cab. Don't know what yet, but that space is going to get used in some way. More than just putting in an air dam, which I will do.

When I picked up my Eagle it was over a week in it before I got home after going across the country. Most of the time with it cluttered with new stuff to put on later, like a fridge and new door and a bunch of smaller stuff. And a new cat who was fearful of strangers to get acquainted with. First night I did manage up in the Sierras before starting to fill it with stuff. Cold, though, and it, being a shell had no heater, but I'd brought lots of blankets. Enjoyable and interesting trip.

 

[super doody]

I have wondered where that height variation gets evened out. Is there variation all the way through to the roof, or variation in inside wall height or something? Inside, the top wood "shelf" on mine is 17" off the floor where it would be much less if it was built for the Ranger.

I believe the extra height is all the way to the roof.

 

[WaltK]

I believe the extra height is all the way to the roof.


On mine the roof height seems to be standard, which means that the 17" up to the top wood is taken back in the main walls. Seems that way putting the fridge in, looks to be a tighter fit than other fridge setups I've looked at. And I'm hoping to put a cooktop on it, not sure if I'll make it, very close if it does.