Catherinecormack
New Member
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2017
- Messages
- 9
We have a 2007 Eagle Four Wheel Pop-up camper, shell model we bought late in 2017. We had been looking for something like this for some time, as we didn’t want to bog down our Tacoma with a heavy camper. This shell model only weighed 530 pounds. (Before we started adding stuff, that is. Now it still comes in at only 650 lbs.)
Interior of camper (before mods):
The front window was broken out and was a non-standard size. We managed to get one custom made in Canada for ~$125, however.
What we did to it:
The spring-loaded hinges are a PITA when it comes to re-installing. We first held a lift panel down on a large piece of plywood and screwed the bottom hinge down using about every 4th hole. We then screwed the top hinge to a piece of 2inx2in lumber (also every 4th hole), twisted that board until the top hinge stuck out at 90 deg in front of the panel, then clamped that board to the plywood board. This held the hinges in the position they would have to be in to install.
While the hinges were so held, we strung mechanics wire between the holes in the bottom and top hinges (about every 4th hole, again). (It’s easier to string the wire loosely before screwing the hinges down.) Using two pair of pliers, we pulled each loop of wire tight and twisted it together. Now, when the screws were removed, the hinges were held in the correct position for installation by the wire loops. Install the lift panels (with screws and pop rivets, as required) using the free holes. Then cut and remove the wire loops and finish placing the screws/pop rivets. This made the lift panel installation relatively easy and straight forward.
Propex HS2000 heater for camper vans:
We choose the Propex HS2000 as it was smaller (and built for smaller campers) than the usual camp trailer heaters available at RV outlets.
We found a company in Boulder that works on VW Vanagons that carried this heater:
Wolfsburg Autowerks
1001 Lee Hill Rd
Boulder, Colorado 80302
(303) 998-1859
Since then, I found out that Propex makes a “compact” model: Propex 1600, which might be a better fit for a tiny camper like the 4wheel.
A nice feature of the Propex is that you almost can’t hear it running – not like the heaters in our previous trailers.
The Propane locker:
A propane bottle has to be vented to the outside while the camper is in use. There are a number of ways to achieve this:
We got our locker from www.suremarineservice.com, a company in Seattle (they ship). It was pricy ($750), but included:
The camper after modification:
The furnace interior cold air inlet is in the center of the cabinet panel. The heat outlet runs under the storage cabinet and counter to about mid-way up the camper.
Close-up of heater control and propane solenoid on-off switch:
Another view of the interior: The cabinet contains the propane locker, the Propex furnace, and the battery.
Top of the cabinet removed, allowing access to the propane locker:
Contents of the Propane Locker: Aluminum 2.5 gal bottle, connectors, regulator, pressure gauge, and solenoid propane on/off valve.
Cabinet with front removed. From top: Propane locker, Propex furnace, battery and battery charger.
The cabinet is only screwed together, so can be disassembled from the top down to access the furnace, should it need servicing or replacement.
The battery charger is hooked to the 110 v outlet in the back of the Tacoma’s bed. When the engine is running, this can be turned on via a switch on the panel, charging the battery. (Standard Tacoma stuff.) The battery will run the furnace (2 amp draw) for 20 – 40 hours, so it didn’t seem worth it to put a solar charger on. I can hook up a portable solar charger, if necessary.
The furnace heat outlet, running under the storage cabinet. The white switch is the main battery disconnect.
Quick propane disconnect between propane locker and furnace:
Propane drain hose from propane locker to the outside:
Furnace combustion air intake and exhaust through floor of camper to the outside:
Interior of camper (before mods):
The front window was broken out and was a non-standard size. We managed to get one custom made in Canada for ~$125, however.
What we did to it:
- We stripped out all of the paneling and replaced it with ¼ inch oak plywood.
- We built new lift panels from the same plywood. Because this plywood is somewhat thicker than the original, we replaced the center piano hinge with a larger hinge bought on line.
The spring-loaded hinges are a PITA when it comes to re-installing. We first held a lift panel down on a large piece of plywood and screwed the bottom hinge down using about every 4th hole. We then screwed the top hinge to a piece of 2inx2in lumber (also every 4th hole), twisted that board until the top hinge stuck out at 90 deg in front of the panel, then clamped that board to the plywood board. This held the hinges in the position they would have to be in to install.
While the hinges were so held, we strung mechanics wire between the holes in the bottom and top hinges (about every 4th hole, again). (It’s easier to string the wire loosely before screwing the hinges down.) Using two pair of pliers, we pulled each loop of wire tight and twisted it together. Now, when the screws were removed, the hinges were held in the correct position for installation by the wire loops. Install the lift panels (with screws and pop rivets, as required) using the free holes. Then cut and remove the wire loops and finish placing the screws/pop rivets. This made the lift panel installation relatively easy and straight forward.
- Next, we built a bench for the right side and storage cabinets under a counter-top on the left side.
- Then, we built a cabinet for the left rear that held a battery, a Propex HS2000 heater, and a nautical propane storage locker.
Propex HS2000 heater for camper vans:
We choose the Propex HS2000 as it was smaller (and built for smaller campers) than the usual camp trailer heaters available at RV outlets.
We found a company in Boulder that works on VW Vanagons that carried this heater:
Wolfsburg Autowerks
1001 Lee Hill Rd
Boulder, Colorado 80302
(303) 998-1859
Since then, I found out that Propex makes a “compact” model: Propex 1600, which might be a better fit for a tiny camper like the 4wheel.
A nice feature of the Propex is that you almost can’t hear it running – not like the heaters in our previous trailers.
The Propane locker:
A propane bottle has to be vented to the outside while the camper is in use. There are a number of ways to achieve this:
- Build an airtight box which connects to an opening in the side of the camper fitted with a vented door. (This is what the factory does – but we had a shell model.) This seemed like a lot of hassle, even if we could find a suitable door. It required modifying the camper wall structure which would require aluminum welding.
- Carry the bottle in the camper when traveling, but place it outside when the camper is used. It can be hooked up with a quick disconnect fitting on the outside of the camper. This is fairly easy, but involves moving the bottle each time you sleep in the camper.
- Use a nautical propane locker. These are built for boats and the way they work is:
The locker contains the bottle and is sealed airtight, except for: - A drain hose which leads from near the bottom of the locker to the outside. If the bottle or plumbing leaked, the propane would go outside, just like in the factory setup with an airtight box and vented outside door.
We got our locker from www.suremarineservice.com, a company in Seattle (they ship). It was pricy ($750), but included:
- A 10 lb (2.5 gal) aluminum propane bottle. This is very light weight. (Sure Marine also makes a 4 lb, 1 gal model that is only a little cheaper, but significantly smaller.)
- The plumbing; including attach fitting, regulator, pressure guage (useful for checking for leaks), and a solenoid valve which can turn the propane system off via a remote switch you can place wherever you like.
- All the through-bulkhead fittings you need to get the propane hoses, drain hose and wires outside the sealed locker. You place these wherever you need to by drilling holes in the locker and installing them.
The camper after modification:
The furnace interior cold air inlet is in the center of the cabinet panel. The heat outlet runs under the storage cabinet and counter to about mid-way up the camper.
Close-up of heater control and propane solenoid on-off switch:
Another view of the interior: The cabinet contains the propane locker, the Propex furnace, and the battery.
Top of the cabinet removed, allowing access to the propane locker:
Contents of the Propane Locker: Aluminum 2.5 gal bottle, connectors, regulator, pressure gauge, and solenoid propane on/off valve.
Cabinet with front removed. From top: Propane locker, Propex furnace, battery and battery charger.
The cabinet is only screwed together, so can be disassembled from the top down to access the furnace, should it need servicing or replacement.
The battery charger is hooked to the 110 v outlet in the back of the Tacoma’s bed. When the engine is running, this can be turned on via a switch on the panel, charging the battery. (Standard Tacoma stuff.) The battery will run the furnace (2 amp draw) for 20 – 40 hours, so it didn’t seem worth it to put a solar charger on. I can hook up a portable solar charger, if necessary.
The furnace heat outlet, running under the storage cabinet. The white switch is the main battery disconnect.
Quick propane disconnect between propane locker and furnace:
Propane drain hose from propane locker to the outside:
Furnace combustion air intake and exhaust through floor of camper to the outside:
