Spitfire,
I don't know if you have addressed this issue yet but I too have a Hawk with the 110 2-way fridge and no venting.
This is wrong! There must be venting as per Dometic. Mine would overheat and cycle badly running the battery down pronto. It took two years to identify this as the core of my electrical problems ( see Attention Electrical Sleuths).
The factory finally after much grousing from me, admitted there should be exterior venting and installed 2-exterior vents behind the fridge. At that time I also installed a 4.7 x 4.7 pancake fan to the upper vent that is wired to the fridge's compressor fan. When that fan comes on to cool the condenser, the new fan also comes on blowing the heated air out the top vent.
A Dometic service tech advised me to use just one fan (not the two I was planning) to help vent the area without excessive air flow that may disturb the air pressure in the enclosure cavity. Whatever, I used one fan.
In any regard, I've not had the same electrical drain since this modification. That said, I still had trouble boondocking for more than two days and without a supplementary ice block. I have since upgraded my solar panel from 95watts to 160 watts, replaced the 10 ga wire from the truck alternator back to the camper with 4ga. wire and replaced the solar charger with Bogarts SC2030 and Trimetric TM2030 meter. This allows one to program optimum charging to the specifications allowed for your particular brand of batteries. Not to mention real monitoring of your usage and battery condition.
The upgraded wire size from the truck back more than doubled the charging amperage while running the truck and I'm just now testing the new solar panel contribution.
From my experience, these campers are under wired. Yes, it will still work if you have plenty of time. When boondocking however, there is only so much sun and even driving 6 hours a day was insufficient for us to get through the night. We did not buy a FWC camper to park at KOA every night just so we could run that darn fridge!
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