2014 Southern Utah of MarkBC: Part 1 -- Canyonlands N.P.

MarkBC

The Weatherman
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Bend, Oregon
I made this trip to and through my favorite place -- southern Utah -- in late April and early May...but it took me a while to get going on the chore of sifting through lots of photos.

So to avoid further delay, to get something posted -- and since it's a long story anyway, I decided to break the geographic sections into separate (probably 3) reports (as Bosque Bill did on his recent trip). I'll provide links connecting the sections when they're all done and posted.

[See also Part 2 -- Capitol Reef N.P.]

The map below (click on the thumbnail) shows my overall route for the whole trip; the yellow triangles are my camps, the M's are motel stays.
Full-Map-1b.jpg

So: Canyonlands National Park -- Needles and Island in the Sky -- with Stew.

I left Bend on Saturday May 19 and headed east out US 20 -- the way lots of good trips begin! :)
I needed to meet Stew mid-afternoon the next day, the 20th, at the junction of US 191 and UT 211.
I drove and drove...and drove some more...then I drove some more...and after I'd driven 765 miles (the second-furthest distance I've driven in a day) I stopped and camped for the night. This spot, Camp 1, was in a large pullout off US 50/6 in far-western Utah near Skull Rock Pass.

Following the route shown on the overall map above (driving, driving...), I stopped in Moab for groceries then proceeded south and successfully rendezvoused with Stew at the appointed place and near the appointed time.

Here's a zoomed-in view of the area that we would explore the next 5 days:
Canyonlands-Map-1b.jpg



Our plan was to spend 3 days in the Needles District, then we would drive the White Rim Trail/Road in the Island in the Sky District for a couple of days.

We camped the first night at Indian Creek BLM campground, just east of the entrance to Needles, Canyonlands NP, since we were sure the national park campground was already full. Indian Creek was not full and we got a nice spot. Camp 2.
[Most of the landscape-orientation (wider than tall) pics, like the one below, open up a little bigger -- and maybe better -- if you click on them]
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Next morning we showed up early at the Squaw Flat Campground in the Needles, and thanks to being early -- and Stew's charm -- were offered first dibs on a great site by a couple that were packing up to leave. Camp 3.
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We did a little loop walk/hike around the campground area, a route that crossed a rock bench with a view of the surrounding area, including our campsite.
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The next morning we got an early start on a long hike through the Needles. There are lots of canyons -- really a maze (though not THE Maze -- a different Canyonlands district). Hiking routes go up and down the canyons, crossing passes here and there.

Stew leading the way, guided by cairns
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A bit of a short slot
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Through a pass, with some of the namesake needles in the distance
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Cryptobiotic soil, Needles, and Stew
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The Park Service has placed a few very sturdy ladders to ease passage over rock ribs separating canyons
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A big amphitheatre at the head of a canyon
[This image -- and any others that follow with an aspect ratio wider than 3:2 -- are multi-shot panoramas. If you click on the image it opens full-size -- quite a bit wider than the forum's in-post embedded-image limitation.]
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A cool little eroded feature -- like bars on a cage or jail
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So much topographic texture
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That evening we went to a Ranger talk in the campground on Canyonlands geology. It was pretty good -- the Ranger was a geologist before he went to work for the NPS. The Ranger began the talk by reading a passage from Edward Abbey, which was cool.
 
The next day our plan was to move camp (for the night of the 23rd) to somewhere near the Shafer Trail end of the White Rim Trail. We had a reservation for the following night, the 24th, but the only spot we could get was quite a ways around the White Rim, so we needed to get an early start for that long slow drive...

After re-supplying in Moab we drove back in to Canyonlands, this time to the Island in the Sky District, and we went to the visitor center to check on White Rim conditions for our next-day drive. In talking to a very enthusiastic Ranger we got a wonderful surprise: Someone had just cancelled their reservation for that night at the MOST sought-after of all White Rim campspots: The White Crack!
"Would you like that spot for tonight?
"YES, please, ma'am -- we'd like it very much! Thank you!"
So, we got to spend two nights, instead of one, on the White Rim loop! :)

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The first step is the Shafer Trail, which starts with a series of switchbacks
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And then continues out to the White Rim
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The next morning at the White Crack campsite (only one party is allowed to camp there -- us), I got up early and walked out the long spit of rock that points toward the confluence of the Colorado and Green Rivers (though neither river can be seen from that point).
This was the only morning that I did what photographers are supposed to do -- get up before dawn, and it was the only place I shot a 360° panorama.
Here's one little section of that pano:
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Click here to download/open/view the full 360° rotatable panorama.
It's kinda big -- about 3 MB. You need to have Apple QuickTime Player installed to view it.

Looking south at the Needles, where we'd been the days before
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Looking back towards our White Crack camp from my photo spot
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We were parked right on the bedrock, seemingly at the point were two different layers of sandstone contact -- see the varying colors. Camp 4.
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In our camping area...Indian Paintbrush are intensely red! (this variety, anyway)
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We continued on clockwise around the White Rim Trail, stopping occasionally to look and photo
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The White Rim Trail is not a technical 4x4 route. A lot of it is regular dirt road, a lot is rock-studded dirt and a lot is driving on raw bedrock. A few spots are steeper and narrow, narrow enough and steep enough that I had to put my truck in 4-low and pay attention
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Not narrow for a jeep, but narrow for a full-size truck and camper, and there are a few sharp turns (sharp for a full-size truck). Stew and I had the only pickup campers that we saw in two days.

There are many cool canyons like this cut into -- and under -- the White Rim
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As much as I like southern Utah for all the naked rock, there are some things that are nice to see that aren't rock
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We ended our day at our reserved campsite at Potato Bottom, near the Green River. Camp 5.
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Using a natural table, as I prepared to grill yams and zucchini (to be followed by rib eye steak -- not shown)
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The next day our route took us near the Green River for a ways
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And then we zig-zagged up out of the lowlands back up to the "island" part of "Island in the Sky"
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Beside Stew's and mine, there was another pop-up camper parked up there
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Stew headed home and I headed up to Green River to regroup before continuing on to my next destination.




NEXT: Capitol Reef National Park
 
Thanks Mark. Been waiting for your White Rim report. Looks like a more than doable trip even for my "wide bottom" rig. Assuming you guys made reservations prior to heading over and running the trail? I'm just fascinated/infatuated or whatever you want to call it with that area. White Rim is on my bucket list.
 
Riverrunner said:
Thanks Mark. Been waiting for your White Rim report. Looks like a more than doable trip even for my "wide bottom" rig. Assuming you guys made reservations prior to heading over and running the trail? I'm just fascinated/infatuated or whatever you want to call it with that area. White Rim is on my bucket list.
By "wide bottom" do you mean "dually"? If so, it would be OK for 99% of it...but some few spots it might not be. :unsure: You should check -- lots of experience available online, it's a popular route.

Yes reservations -- far in advance -- for overnight camping are required (we were extraordinarily lucky to snag that extra night's spot). You can make reservations on line, and they fill up weeks and months in advance for the pleasant seasons -- spring and fall.
There are some significant regulations about the White Rim Road -- read the NPS White Rim page here. Here's their page for backcountry permits.
 
Nice reporting and photography, as usual, from Mark. The White Rim/Island in the Sky are on my bucket list, too, as are the myriad of trails on the north/west sides of Canyonlands NP.

I had the pleasure of a 5 day oarboat float from Potash, UT to Hite, UT in 1994, so I had essentially the White Rim views in reverse. It was great. Looking forward to the rest of your report!

Foy
 
Mr. BC, your usual great photography and narrative on quite an adventure! Well worth the wait and hope we see many many more trip reports! You've got us studying maps again! :)
 
Thanks guys. :)
Now that I've got some momentum, gotten off my ass with photo-editing this trip (figuratively -- photo-editing is actually an on-my-ass activity), I should be able to plow through the rest of the trip in a couple of days.
 
The TR and photos were worth the wait, but now you've got momentum. Go for it! :D

I especially like the ultrawide shots with flowers in foreground. Great rock formations there.
I've mountain biked from Calf Creek to Moab, and always have wanted to do the White Rim.
Thanks for showing us the terrain and trail conditions.

Looking forward to another installment.
 
Thanks, guys. :)
I've got the next installment of photos thinned out, edited, but I need to connect them together with a bit of text, which I'll do in the morning.
It'll be posted as a separate topic, I think...
 
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