-27 degrees overnight last Sun,

riz

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108
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Fort Collins, CO
I spent the weekend in my Ranger at Winter Park Ski area last weekend. It was about 12 below over Friday night, 15 below over Sat night and 27 below reported over Sunday night. The heater cylcled on and off on Fri and Sat.... Ran pretty much nonstop from about midnight Sunday into Monday morning keeping the camper at around 50 degrees. I have the Arctic Pac, bubble wrap insulation window coverings, bubble wrap insulation stapled to most of the wooden base of the camper, and a nice down sleeping bag. We were not uncomfortable at all. We had to keep the beer in the icebox during the day to keep it from freezing!
 
I've spent several nights in the 8-10 degrees below zero range. The local weather on my iphone was reporting 27 below zero last Sinday night in Winter Park CO. You're right... That is cold! Days were clear and calm so there was little or no wind chill.
 
Wow, nice! Did you leave the top popped up the whole time? Could you pop it down or would it be too rigid & crack at those temperatures?

Does the heater fan not run the battery / batteries down? Mine doesn't seem to last that long when it's cold...
 
Nice! That is when you know it is properly cold. :cool:


Got to keep the beer cold don't we! I guess I will not bitch about the -7 here, frozen hot water pipes and needing a jump for the truck the other day! These days, anything below 32 degrees above reminds me that I'm getting old. About the camper batteries, I have done allot of cold weather camping, and before I got the solar panels hooked up, it was usually on the third night that those damn beepers would go off in the middle of the night-used to scare the crap out of me, until i realized it was the batteries. Now I always make sure I run the truck daily if I stay in one place for any length of time. Something to watch out for is if the battery light is on yellow-red all the time when you are not using something. -might give an indication of time for a new battery! I had that problem but (after almost six years) replaced the battery and added solar, real neat now to have my batt. on green-yellow instead when I use something and on green/ yellow instead of red in the morning-just a quick start up and right into green now!

:LOL:Smoke
 
I'm sure this has been covered elsewhere and maybe someone could redirect this question. I was out over New Years camping for a few days and my question on the thread above is how long does it take "typically" to recharge the camper battery/batteries from running the truck engine?? Was hitting low single digits where I was and of course using the furnace a bit more than usual along with lighting loads. I don't use my fridge in the winter.

Any help would be appreciated.

Craggy-
 
I'm sure this has been covered elsewhere and maybe someone could redirect this question. I was out over New Years camping for a few days and my question on the thread above is how long does it take "typically" to recharge the camper battery/batteries from running the truck engine?? Was hitting low single digits where I was and of course using the furnace a bit more than usual along with lighting loads. I don't use my fridge in the winter.

Any help would be appreciated.

Craggy-


Each setup will be somewhat unique. If you are using the hookup to the truck the way FWC installs it then you know for sure you are charging at less than 30 amps or the fuse would blow. They also use 10 gauge wire in the hookup and you would want to figure out just how long that hookup is (from battery to battery) and then go off to a wire capacity table and find out what the limit of that is, I expect it will be somewhere around 15 amps.

If you take 15 amps as the limit then divide that into the current amp hour capacity of your house batteries and that will be about how long your truck would take to charge the house bank from full discharged. (of course for the longest life of your batteries you should not be using but about half the amp hour capacity, ie not discharging more than 50%. So to get a true answer to your question you would need to know the charge state of your house battery system, for instance.

That's a quick brush, you really have to pin down all the numbers as all those above are just estimates. and only part of the full picture.

And, of course if you are doing your isolation with a Voltage Sensing Relay and some really big wires and circuit breakers you might push through much more. Though then you will run up against your alternator's capacity, how much the truck itself is using, and just what sort of wiring capacity there is between your alternator and your truck's battery. My Ranger has a 170 amp alternator, but I doubt I can get more than 40-50 amps back to the house batteries. Assuming it's 40 amps and my 200 amp hour my house bank if fully discharged would take 5 hours of truck run time, or if it's only discharged to the ideal 50% discharged that would be 2.5 hours. Real world would be greater, that's an ideal and also assumes no appliances in the camper are using electricity while charging.

I'm setting up a Bogart Engineering TriMetric metering system in my Eagle. That monitors all the electric flow in or out of my House Bank. It will give me the capacity of the house bank as measured in use, current amp hours stored in the bank, amp hours input into the bank, and those taken out of the bank. And a bunch of other info on the performance of the system, far more than I likely will need except for troubleshooting purposes. Between that and a regular volt/amp meter I have that can check individual electric flow and voltages associated with each circuit and appliance I'll eventually be able to know for my Eagle fairly exactly how well the system is performing.
 
I spent the weekend in my Ranger at Winter Park Ski area last weekend. It was about 12 below over Friday night, 15 below over Sat night and 27 below reported over Sunday night. The heater cylcled on and off on Fri and Sat.... Ran pretty much nonstop from about midnight Sunday into Monday morning keeping the camper at around 50 degrees. I have the Arctic Pac, bubble wrap insulation window coverings, bubble wrap insulation stapled to most of the wooden base of the camper, and a nice down sleeping bag. We were not uncomfortable at all. We had to keep the beer in the icebox during the day to keep it from freezing!


Cold, riz, mighty cold! The lowest temps I've seen outside my camper was -3F.
 
I have a battery isolator and two deep cell batteries under the front couch area to power the camper electrics. A couple hours of drive time seem to charge the batteris fully. I did do some driving (maybe two hours) between friday and Sat night. I kept the top up while camping, and when it was lowered the temp was probably about -5 degrees. The canvas was stiff, but folded up fine. Overall, I was very pleased with the camper performance. I doubt I will have to camp in much colder conditions, because that's about as cold as it gets around here
 
Thanks to WaltK and riz for some feedback on charging the batteries. I need to spend more time tracking discharge and charge times on my own to get a better feel for it. The cold temps over New Years definitely made it a bit harder to drop the camper top. My old camper's vinyl sides were very stiff and in a couple of spots had collected a bit of icy condensation. I have yet to add insulation to the soft sided areas, my bad. I gave the camper a blast of heat with both the furnace and the portable catalytic heater before dropping the top and seemed to help but I heard and felt a fair amount of reluctance in the old window material and vinyl to collapse without a fight. A zero degree bag made this trip way more comfortable, other wise no problems with water or the beer... ;)
 
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