2x4 Under the camper alternatives?

[blamkin86]

Hi all!

We've had our FWC Hawk for just over 2 years now, and have managed about 65 nights or so out in the Utah desert(s) and at race tracks.

The camper fit perfectly (well, maybe a little high) in my 2008 Silverado Duramax.

I've just "upgraded" to a 2017 Superduty, and as many of you know, the roof height is much taller, causing the underside of the camper to contact the truck roof.

As some others have done, I simply screwed 2x4s to the bottom of the camper. This lift was enough to fix the truck-clearance issue, however...

..I'm wondering if there's a more elegant solution? I'm not really excited about seeing exposed 2x4s under my camper every time I get in it.

Does someone make a "platform" or other non-home-depot solution to this problem?

Thanks in advance!
--Bill

 

[Living The Dream]

I used 2X3s painted them gloss white to match camper but also put in a little trap door type of thing. Perfect to store a tailgating table. You can see it here: https://youtu.be/joMpC8FSycg?t=109. A lot of people refer to it as the basement, if you can find some functionality for the space maybe you won't dislike it so much.

 

[Beach]

I cut my front to back runners short to allow for a 2x2 that runs across the width of the truck bed to give it a more finished look. You could also add a piece of trim to the bottom of the camper that would hide the 2x4s.

 

[buckland]

I attached the 2x4" but also installed rigid insulation board. The floor is a lot warmer in cold weather.

 

[Old Crow]

I had the same problem last Fall when I moved from my '01 F150 to '13 Tundra. My solution was very similar to the ideas already posted but I thought I'd add some photos.

I attached a sheet of 2" rigid insulation board to the underside of the camper (without 2x4s) and of course had to deal with the ugly bright-green color of the end of the insulation board.

The 2" insulation is a true 2 inches so I glued up a trim piece from 1-1/2" stock and 1/2" stock (both 1-1/2" wide and both from Lowe's) and attached it to bottom of the camper with deeply-countersunk screws. I chose to make the trim piece the same width as the camper (rather than try to block off the entire space).

Paint is the same I used on the floor-pack-- Glidden Gripper primer and Glidden Premium Exterior in Cool Metalwork Grey. If you look closely at the second photo, you can see the glue-line on the new trim.

(click to enlarge)

.



.

 

[2tallDA]

2x2's under my Northstar to accommodate my '07's taller roof.
Floor's already insulated.

 

[Bill D]

Nice upgrade on the truck. I've been eyeballing the new Super Dutys. I'm driving a 2009 GMC, which I enjoy, but I'm still jealous.

I think I've seen a few guys in your situation create some awesome sliding drawers to put things like fishing rods etc. Best of luck with your solution. I'm sure you can come up with something great.

 

[camper rich]

I added a riser of 2 x 3 laying flat for an increase of 1-5/8". That gave me the clearance over the cab I needed to add a box under the overhang to hold my extend & climb collapsable ladder. We also have the Easy-Awn stainless steel table that slides into two mounting brackets mounted under the overhang.

https://www.equipt1.com/item/k9-camp-table-small

 

[PackRat]

Not sure about the construction methods of other campers, but Alaskans over 40 years old tend to have soft or well jiggled joints so supporting the in the bed is critical. I wasn't sure if I needed to raise my '76 CO 8 ft. to clear the cab so I used a 5/8" plywood and some 2x6s I had laying around. The key here was to support the 48" width of the AK with a 48" plywood on all four sides. With the ribbed bed liner still in there to allow for air flow, I added three more crossmembers.

In reality, I could probably just remove the riser as I have at least 3"+ clearance in the bed rails and 4"+ on the cab. I plan to remove the riser 2x6s and set it back down on the plywood I think. Good support where the rear door is will be important so the plywood will extend exactly to that edge. I think the plywood will add enough insulation value and some carpet inside will keep bare feet from being chilly.

The rig is tarped right now, but when warm weather returns, the plywood will get oil-based primer/paint to seal it. Not sure about your camper, but the floors in the AK are subject to rot so preventative maintenance is imperative. Guys that have had to jack up the camper several inches have decided to design the riser so there is a compartment between the 2x6s or whatever dimension planks they used at the rear and located the first crossmember in deep enough to allow for a folding table or a drawer to fit in there.

 

[JaSAn]

+1 on rigid insulation board. I used pink Foamular 250 and made an endcap that fit over the tailgate pivot stubs. I like that it supports the whole floor as mine is old and soft.



jim

 

[michgoblue]

I have a platform built in my Colorado Duramax that I am replacing with a flat water tank instead - 27 gallons I think it was. Right now I have to raise my Phoenix up 5.5 inches or so to clear the bedrails, and I have 2x4s covered with 3/4" plywood and a rubberized mat as a base. I found a 4.5" tall water tank and will put plywood under it, 4x4s in front and on the sides, add plywood on top, probably hinging the top to remove the tank more easily. The tank itself is 51" long and some 32 inches wide. I should have a long space next to it for a shovel and such and a wide space at the end for extra hoses and cables and things. Planning on running hoses right to the facet from this tank and removing my undersink 12 gallon tank for more storage or maybe a hot water tank. Anyway that's the project for Winter when I get around to it.

EDIT: Here is the tank I am using - https://jazzsales.com/product/water-tank4-5hx32wx51l-27gal/

 

[Ronin]

My previous Hawk had to be raised 3" or so when I went from an '03 to '14 Tundra. Initially I just put 4x4s under the camper and I wanted to create some storage under the camper so I built a platform that included a pull out drawer. The platform was attached to the bottom of the camper. I have since bought another used Hawk that has to be raised less than 2" to clear the side of the truck bed so I just throw some 2x6's under the camper and haven't felt the need to build another platform for it. Here's a pic of my old Hawk.

 

[takesiteasy]

I like that drawer idea. I've seen that on flatbed models built into the bed platform- seems so useful.

 

[buckland]

I have a platform built in my Colorado Duramax that I am replacing with a flat water tank instead - 27 gallons I think it was. Right now I have to raise my Phoenix up 5.5 inches or so to clear the bedrails, and I have 2x4s covered with 3/4" plywood and a rubberized mat as a base. I found a 4.5" tall water tank and will put plywood under it, 4x4s in front and on the sides, add plywood on top, probably hinging the top to remove the tank more easily. The tank itself is 51" long and some 32 inches wide. I should have a long space next to it for a shovel and such and a wide space at the end for extra hoses and cables and things. Planning on running hoses right to the facet from this tank and removing my undersink 12 gallon tank for more storage or maybe a hot water tank. Anyway that's the project for Winter when I get around to it.

EDIT: Here is the tank I am using - https://jazzsales.com/product/water-tank4-5hx32wx51l-27gal/

I have been looking for a tank like this for some time! (If only they made a 3 1/2" H one at 20 gallons)... That would work with my Eagle on The Duramax Colorado!!! Thanks for the link

 

[michgoblue]

I found only one 3.5" tank and it had a 1" section just out on the bottom as a drain so really didn't work as well. If I didn't have to lift my camper so much then this one would be a little tall, but as it is I think it will work out just right. Once I get it set up and installed I will post up pics.

 

[buckland]

That sounds interesting.... if you happen to get a link for that pop me a PM .
Like to see your photos too.

 

[Mayday]

Hey quick ? For anyone still following this thread. I have a 13 Silverado 1500 and was told I need to build a platform with 2x4’s to accommodate fitting a 2018 hawk. Has anyone with a Chevy/GMC 6’5 bed experienced this problem?

Cheers!

Hi all!

We've had our FWC Hawk for just over 2 years now, and have managed about 65 nights or so out in the Utah desert(s) and at race tracks.

The camper fit perfectly (well, maybe a little high) in my 2008 Silverado Duramax.

I've just "upgraded" to a 2017 Superduty, and as many of you know, the roof height is much taller, causing the underside of the camper to contact the truck roof.

As some others have done, I simply screwed 2x4s to the bottom of the camper. This lift was enough to fix the truck-clearance issue, however...

..I'm wondering if there's a more elegant solution? I'm not really excited about seeing exposed 2x4s under my camper every time I get in it.

Does someone make a "platform" or other non-home-depot solution to this problem?

Thanks in advance!
--Bill

 

[Mayday]

I ended up going with the foam under the hawk. This is how it sits after lifting the jacks. Thank you everyone for the advice!

 

[drumwood]

I’m planning on using Fomular to raise my camper. Is it somewhat “sticky” once the camper is on? Am I correct in thinking I won’t need some kind of a rubber mat to keep the camper from sliding around?

 

[Vic Harder]

i use Fomular, no rubber mat. No problems.