3 month trip, parts that have failed...

Advmoto18

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2014
Messages
1,083
Location
Coastal Low Country, SC
First and foremost, this is NOT A POST OR THREAD INTENDED TO FLAME FWC! PLEASE do not interpret it as such. We consider Tom (former owner) a friend and would never publicly besmirch Tom or FWC.

There have been several threads in the past that have discussed installed component failures in FWCs.

We are in week 6 of a 3 month trip out west in our 2015 Hawk and have had a few problems that were difficult to fix due to warranty issues and warranty service center backlogs; ability to properly troubleshoot and ultimately, procure parts.

Living long term in a slide-in camper can pose additional hardships on components perhaps not designed or built into the camper. Perhaps the need for FWC (and other manufacturers) to rely on "RV" components is the underlying issue. Many "RV" components do not hold up to "off road" travel as we have learned the past 5 weeks.

In all fairness, we have driven across 250+ miles of wash board roads, hundreds of miles of dirt and gravel roads and about 100 miles of "Moderate+" and ~ 25 "Difficult" jeep trails.

My truck has performed flawlessly.

My Hawk, well, has been in need of constant attention.

Problems encountered.
1. Hot water heater circuit board failure with 11 days remaining in warranty. FWC does not warrant the hot water heater. You must contact Atwood. Atwood customer service was excellent. Finding a warranty service center that had less then a 21 day maintenance backlog...impossible. I didn't know where we'd be tomorrow let alone 21 days from now! I ended up purchasing a replacement board from Amazon and had it shipped to a friend's house. The water heater is simplistic in design and there are really only 2 internal components that are likely to fail, the TSTAT and the circuit board. Replacing the TSTAT will set you back about $15 on the road while the board is very expensive unless purchased through Amazon where it will still set you back about $110.

2. LP/CO sensor failure. This is the second sensor to fail in 22 months. Another Atwood product covered by the 2 year warranty. Again, the service center backlog problem. I ended up throwing the problem unit in the trash. I bought a 9V battery powered First Alert CO sensor at Lowes; CO is my real concern...the odorless killer. I also bought a $2 gray outlet plate at Lowes to cover up the hole. I currently do not have a LP sensor. I'm not too concerned as we don't need the heater and I turn the LP off every night. I still need to address the LP sensor issue at some point.

3. Dometic refrigerator door seal has been an issue since Day 7. The seal is a REAL problem and nuisance now-days. The seal will not stay attached to the bottom edge of the door, it keeps coming off. I am a vocal critic of side loading refrigerators in off-road campers. Open the door, all the cold air falls out. Running a side-load frig on battery power with solar recharging is not optimum in the least, even worse if no solar! FWC, PLEASE consider designing a recessed/pull-out, locking shelf for top loading frig/freezers such as ARB or Engle.

4. A short in the left side, external, LED light. Brought the entire side LED light system down. Each side should have a dedicated switch inside the camper. Same for the external LED down lights.

5. We have had several water system tubing/hose leaks. If you drive off-road, check all accessible water system fasteners as often as you check the turnbuckles! Like every night after driving over wash board roads or jeep trials!

6. Screens. The screens are insufficient keeping out "no-see-ems" We thought this was only going to be an issue for NC/SC coastal areas. But, we found thousands of tiny flying bugs in Canyonlands NP that flew right thought the screens. Fortunately, they wanted to be near the LED lights and not us!

Overall, we continue to be very happy with our Hawk and the ability to venture far off-tarmac it affords us. Many issues we have encountered are a result of components selected by FWC as available options. Frankly, I do not believe offered "RV" grade components are worthy of "off-roading" experiences. FWC needs to look to dedicated off-road component suppliers for our campers.
 
Appreciate your unemotional, objective review of the failures and challenges. Another plus for those that buy a shell and customize their own.
 
Advmoto
I had the same problem with the bugs and with the seal on the bottom of the door of the fridge. I couldn't believe all the bugs attracted to the light inside the camper the biggest problem is how do I get them out. They fly right through the screen and get in by the millions. To get them out pull off the screen to the Fantastic fan and turn it on high and they are attracted to the light near the fan then they are sucked out. How to keep them out I don't know.

I have had the same problem with the seal on the bottom of the fridge. It only got worse, I thought at first it only needed cleaning so I removed it and cleaned it. That was no help. It got to the point where I had to check it with my fingers under the door every time I open the door. The fix was easy two small spots of silicone in the track that holds the seal in place. I did that and I haven't even had to think about the seal since. We love our upright fridge.

David
 
Sir, how did you determine the LP/CO sensor was bad... what are the symptoms? I do use heater in the mountains and like to make coffee in the morning on the stove without going out. So I leave gas on at night.... not sure how responsible that is?
 
You might try rubbing the screens down with Cutters when you are going to leave windows/doors open. Can't hurt, might help.
 
I am very impressed with the toughness of these campers.

#3. Refrigerator door seal: I finally had the problem with my 2 way, front loading, 35 Y.O. Norcold. The door is warped. Bottom corner away from hinge will not seal. Solved the problem (for now) by putting 1/8" X 1/2" foam tape along the sealing surface on the refrigerator (not door). It was using ~5 amp-hours more per day with the leak.

#6. Screens: You can get the same bug netting that is used in backpacking tents for 'no-see-ums'. Very tight weave which restricts some air flow:
https://www.amazon.com/Saint-Gobain-ADFORS-CHARCOAL-INSECT-SCREEN/dp/B00KIQKMRM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493153611&sr=8-1&keywords=no-see-um+screen

On my camper ('78 Grandby) the screens are repaired the same way as my house screens.

Anything with DEET will probably melt the screens (unless you have metal screening).

jim
 
Just on the no-see-ums... yup... up in the north Maine woods on our first trip 6 years ago we found our camper crawling with thousands of them.... they can fly through the net...not just crawl.... we bought no-see-um netting and sweet velcro on the edges and stuck it on the window trim... did this for the four soft side windows too...so now side windows and both roof vents are covered ...back door not needed as we like it shut. It is one of those things that has to be done as an addition as it stops a lot of air flow and only used in those areas where the little bastards are... We too are off for a 2 month Alaskan /Yukon trip......... we will see... but in six years our Eagle has held up with only minor issues.... hang in there and your camper will be better than ever for it.
 
Hmmm, maybe I've just yet to camp in an area with no seeums. No problems with the door on my TF (isotherm). Maybe we can get MarkBC to get the flir again and we'll put the cold air falling out to rest once and for all :)
 
I have had real good luck against the no-see- ums by spraying a little raid bug killer on a tissue and lightly wiping the screens. Amazing how well it works! Don't use anything with deet in it, it will melt the screen.

I believe if FWC were to use the true no-see-um screen it would block to much light from entering the camper and also block the view from the camper more.
 
Anyone know of a source for buying the no-see-um screen by the yard? Home Depot sells only a large roll. REI used to sell by the yard but discontinued it.
 
Same issue with the dometic refer seal. Almost from day one. Pain in the butt. Will try the silicon fix.

My other issues have been minor. LED indicator light going out on shore power exterior door, rusting on all the roof lift brackets (even the ones I had replaced by warranty for rusting the first time).

FWC are quality campers. I do agree that with the prices they are asking they need to continue to go away from the cheaper "RV" components and begin using marine grade wherever possible. The Blue Sea and Iota products are a good start.
 
Hi Bill-
Minor problems aside I hope your trip is going well otherwise and your truck mods are working as planned. I got the Air Bags installed last week and the sway bar goes on this weekend if everything goes as planned.

Regarding the screen I had heard that FWC and Hallmark use a more open screen to allow the maximum amount of breeze to pass through and when we had ours built I specifically requested the more narrow gauge. They told me it would restrict the airflow but we were willing to live with that and so far it has been fine. I would think that the screens on the solid part of your camper could be swapped out in a hardware store relatively cheaply.

Enjoy the trip!!
 
I'm happy I have my shell. 500 miles offroad in 5 years and no problems with my portable water system. The "no-seums" in Death Valley must be larger than the ones you have encountered. Now if I would just remember to slide the plastic part on the screen closed it would keep out the flys which we now also have in the desert (maybe its from all the burro caca)
 
Bseek said:
thanks Brenda...just placed an order with Seattle Fabrics...nice to find this vendor as we had a great one with outdoor fabric, camping hardware, etc., but it closed in January... we will probably be using this website often...they have great prices, good product photos, hey it in the PNW... bought a custom product from them cheaper than Amazon... great referral...thanks... happy travels..
Brad, Lynn
 
Our Dometic fridge door would warp quite easily. Unfortunately it was easy enough to grab the top & bottom corners and twist it back to straight.
 
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