A newbie seeks fridge guidance

[Stringer]

Hello,

I was hoping to get some info about the ideal way to utilize a 12V fridge in my Hawk shell.

(If this needs to be moved to the Fridge Megathread, please do so - I would have posted there but it looks like the last response in that thread was from 2019).

I will have the standard camper battery that comes with a Hawk shell. I also have a Bluetti solar generator with a briefcase style solar panel.

My energy needs are fairly small (lights, cell phone charge, roof fans, furnace in colder months), but the idea of a fridge has me rethinking my setup.

I'd really love to avoid drilling any more holes in the roof, and therefore would prefer to avoid roof-mounted solar unless that is just the absolute most logical solution here.

I'm wondering if it would be smarter to put a fridge in the camper and run it off the solar generator, while moving that generator around as needed to charge from the portable solar panel and also from the truck's alternator while driving.

Or would it be better to put a second battery in the truck cab and use a DC-DC charger, and maybe even a solar charge controller plus my panel to keep that battery topped off?

Or do I need to beef up the battery bank (from one, currently) in my camper and go from there?

My issue is that I'd like to be able to stay in my Hawk for weeks-long stretches at a time while I do some traveling work gigs. The tricky thing is that I'd be parked at work most days, so not much driving, and I also wouldn't want to leave a solar panel just freely sitting out while I'm away from the vehicle. Seems like roof-mounted solar makes the most sense, but again I'm trying to avoid it if at all possible.

I think I might prefer the fridge in the cab, for ease of loading/unloading groceries, but maybe it seems foolish to be buying a whole new set-up (charge controller, battery, battery charger, etc.) when I already have a lot of components that could power a fridge.

Anyway, I know this is a rambling wall of text, but thanks to anyone who can offer some insight on the proper way to incorporate a 12V fridge into this type of setup!

 

[JHanson]

You need roof-mounted solar. It's really not that difficult; if done at all well there are no dangers of leaks, and nothing else will give you 100, 200 watts of power, or more, with so little hassle. We had 200 watts of solar on our FWC, which gave us complete power autonomy running a fridge, lights, and our laptops and cameras. We used semi-flexible panels bonded to the roof—zero wind drag, not visible to anyone on the ground, always ready for solar input.

 

[astropuppy]

You didn't mention what year your Hawk shell is. However its should be pre-wired for solar.

My suggestion would be to put a solar panel on the roof of the shell; then makeup an extension cable to plug your solar generator into the existing wiring. Down the road you can add a mppt controller to charge the house battery or whatever. Any solar panels you already own can be used as aux panels for the camper. Use your existing house battery for camper lights and charging phones.

 

[Stringer]

You need roof-mounted solar. It's really not that difficult; if done at all well there are no dangers of leaks, and nothing else will give you 100, 200 watts of power, or more, with so little hassle. We had 200 watts of solar on our FWC, which gave us complete power autonomy running a fridge, lights, and our laptops and cameras. We used semi-flexible panels bonded to the roof—zero wind drag, not visible to anyone on the ground, always ready for solar input.

That's what I figured - I'm just in the denial phase.

Did FWC install your panels? I've already got my camper on order, and I'm a little leery of trying to make a last minute change; even if it's possible, I imagine I'll get charged their $500 change penalty for it. I've heard of people adding or modifying things on day of delivery. Anyone know if something like a bonded solar panel would maybe be a possibility?

And yours were bonded to the roof, not bolted? I only emphasize these points because I've dealt with leaks in previous campers, and I'm really trying to keep this new one as sealed as possible. Last question - did you just have the one house battery, or did you add batteries? Thanks a bunch!

You didn't mention what year your Hawk shell is. However its should be pre-wired for solar.

My suggestion would be to put a solar panel on the roof of the shell; then makeup an extension cable to plug your solar generator into the existing wiring. Down the road you can add a mppt controller to charge the house battery or whatever. Any solar panels you already own can be used as aux panels for the camper. Use your existing house battery for camper lights and charging phones.

It's a new camper, still on order. I'm set to pick it up in May. I had originally planned to keep my electrical system as mobile as possible, and use the solar generator that I already own, but as my needs may be expanding, I've started to rethink the setup.

These are great ideas. I wonder how complicated it would be to hook up my solar generator to the camper's pre-existing solar hook-up. I'm not totally sure what that connection would look like. Thanks for your help!

 

[astropuppy]

I wonder how complicated it would be to hook up my solar generator to the camper's pre-existing solar hook-up. I'm not totally sure what that connection would look like.

Your shell should have a battery cabinet in the drivers rear, the roof and aux wiring come together in the battery cabinet. FWC has some YouTube videos on the subject.

I installed Anderson connectors between the solar panel wires and the camper mppt - solar - controller. This way I can disconnect the camper solar panels from the camper MPPT controller setup to charge AGM house batteries and plug them into the charge controller for my portable batteries. This allows us to charge the portable battery while away from the camper with everything securely locked up.
Changing charge parameters between AGM and Lithium is a pain. Having two separate charge controllers offers easy of change over as well as redundancy.

I am patiently waiting for the original AGM batteries in our 2020 Hawk Shell to reach end of life. My current plan, subject to change, is to put a cheap lithium battery in the camper and buy a robust solar generator to run our 12v cooler. I do not see a reason to spend a lot of money on a camper power system; when a portable solution can be used in the camper as well as in the house during power outages.

 

[JWL]

I have a 2020 Hawk Shell, I installed 200 watts solar panel on the roof (not a hard task). I recently went away from a ice Chest to an. Iceco JP50 and a Bluetti EB70s. I have to original single AGM battery that wasn’t up to the task when new so I only rely on it for lights and the furnace. I will plug the fridge into it during the day with strong solar and into the Bluetti at night. Going down the road the Bluetti is plugged into the house AC and the fridge into the Bluetti for pass through charging. The fridge uses so little power that I can usually top off the Bluetti this way.
Everything is strapped in so I can remove it when home and use the Bluetti and fridge elsewhere.
I hope that helps and makes sense.

 

[Wango]

I have a solar setup, 320 watts, and two agms, Batteries being replaced with two lithiums in may. As well as some upgraded hardware.
I also have two portable batteries that in the past have powered the second fridge, or portable electronics. Once i go lithium, i will only carry the portable for emergency and for power needs away from the camper.
Roof top solar is a economical way to power peace of mind.

 

[JHanson]

That's what I figured - I'm just in the denial phase.

Did FWC install your panels? I've already got my camper on order, and I'm a little leery of trying to make a last minute change; even if it's possible, I imagine I'll get charged their $500 change penalty for it. I've heard of people adding or modifying things on day of delivery. Anyone know if something like a bonded solar panel would maybe be a possibility?

And yours were bonded to the roof, not bolted? I only emphasize these points because I've dealt with leaks in previous campers, and I'm really trying to keep this new one as sealed as possible. Last question - did you just have the one house battery, or did you add batteries? Thanks a bunch!

It's a new camper, still on order. I'm set to pick it up in May. I had originally planned to keep my electrical system as mobile as possible, and use the solar generator that I already own, but as my needs may be expanding, I've started to rethink the setup.

These are great ideas. I wonder how complicated it would be to hook up my solar generator to the camper's pre-existing solar hook-up. I'm not totally sure what that connection would look like. Thanks for your help!

FWC did install ours, but I've installed others since, such as on our HZJ75. They are indeed bonded; it's easy and reduces the through-holes to one. These are Renogy semi-flexible panels, 100 watts each.

 

[astropuppy]

FWC did install ours, but I've installed others since, such as on our HZJ75. They are indeed bonded; it's easy and reduces the through-holes to one. These are Renogy semi-flexible panels, 100 watts each.

That's a real slick install; What I do not understand is how do you get them up when its time to replace them? I'd love nothing more than to plaster massive wattage on my roof.

 

[JHanson]

That's a real slick install; What I do not understand is how do you get them up when its time to replace them? I'd love nothing more than to plaster massive wattage on my roof.

Barring an unlikely failure, there should be no need to get them up. The panels on our 2012 FWC were still working perfectly when we sold it in 2021. However, they can be removed; it would just takes some muscle power. For me, the zero wind profile and zero theft profile is worth the slight risk of failure.

 

[JWL]

FWC did install ours, but I've installed others since, such as on our HZJ75. They are indeed bonded; it's easy and reduces the through-holes to one. These are Renogy semi-flexible panels, 100 watts each.

That is slick ! Do you have details on your traction board mounts somewhere?

 

[JHanson]

That is slick ! Do you have details on your traction board mounts somewhere?

That is a single sheet of aluminum turned up on each side, with slots for cinch straps. Very simple:

 

[Sagebrusher]

I agree solar is the way to go. I hate drilling into my camper also, so after reviewing AMSolar's site and seeing how they use Very High Bond tape with very specific specs for precleaning and say they never lost a panel, I went that way. To be extra safe, I used some simple Hurricane ties, bent over, and existing screws on the edge of the roof, along with some threaded rods tied into my vents to secure the panel (see pics). OK, I know--over the top, but no new holes into the camper roof (only one into a vent housing but under the cap). I should add that the VHB tape under the brackets is sealed from the environment by a self-leveling lap seal material (e.g. Dicor) and looks solid after 3 years. I (being cheap) made my own brackets to hold the panel, but you can usually buy them along with the panel.

Our 31qt Truckfridge/Indel fridge has run great for 3 years with a single 100w rigid panel original battery and a cheap Sunforce PWM controller (about $160 total). Like you, we use lighting and furnace briefly most days and maybe charge a phone but the refer runs all the time and that is why solar is the best way to go. Keeps the battery charged and fridge running day-in day-out with no worries. If I were to do it again, I'd get a little bigger fridge and 200w like others mention above, but that is my only slight regret.

 

[JHanson]

Very clever use of the hurricane ties!

 

[Vic Harder]

I am at a loss to understand what that threaded rod anchored to your vent does?

 

[Stringer]

Thanks so much for all the info, everyone! Very helpful and much appreciated.

after reviewing AMSolar's site

Does there seem to be a consensus on best (or really good) companies to use for solar system installations?

I've heard of AM Solar - they're in Oregon, right? I'll be driving out to Montana to pick up my trailer. Does anyone have a recommendation (assuming FWC couldn't do it as part of the pick-up) for a company to use if I'd like to hire out this install? Preferably somewhere between Montana and Missouri. Thanks

 

[Sagebrusher]

I am at a loss to understand what that threaded rod anchored to your vent does?

Sorry Vic, the threaded rod in that picture is not yet attached to the panel. When attached, the 2 threaded rods just help to secure the panel near the middle. Really just to be sure.

And, Stringer I never actually used AM Solar, I was just inspired by their no-drill VHB method so I can't comment beyond that. Yes they are in or near Eugene Oregon.

 

[hpcbmw]

I recently bought a "Blizzard" 12v refrigerator from Costo. I paid about $600 a year ago, but of course the prices have gone up. I mounted the fridge in the front my 2005 Hawk camper, where the batteries are mounted. I removed the seating cushion to install the fridge.

I have a 100w flexible solar panel that I mounted to the roof with very high bond velcro tape.I've read the panels sometimes go bad from to much heat, so this allows a little air gap between the roof and the solar panel, plus I can pull the velcro apart to replace the panel. I just did a 200 mile trip running at 80mph (I had a deadline!) and the velcro held up great. I did loop some wire from the panel to my popup clamps, as a backup, but I now do not think they are needed. I connected the solar panel to a 75ah deep cycle battery. I just came back from a three day trip. It was 90 degrees one day and the fridge stayed between 35 and 40 degrees the whole time. I checked my battery often and it never dropped below about 12.6v, so I'm pretty pleased overall. If I did it again, I'd spend a little extra for a 150w solar, just in case I'm out in low sun situations.

I taped one side to the roof of the camper and the other side to the solar panel. This way, if/when the solar panel needs replacing

 

[Freddydcruz]

Your shell should have a battery cabinet in the drivers rear, the roof and aux wiring come together in the battery cabinet. FWC has some YouTube videos on the subject.

I installed Anderson connectors between the solar panel wires and the camper mppt - solar - controller. This way I can disconnect the camper solar panels from the camper MPPT controller setup to charge AGM house batteries and plug them into the charge controller for my portable batteries. This allows us to charge the portable battery while away from the camper with everything securely locked up.
Changing charge parameters between AGM and Lithium is a pain. Having two separate charge controllers offers easy of change over as well as redundancy.

I am patiently waiting for the original AGM batteries in our 2020 Hawk Shell to reach end of life. My current plan, subject to change, is to put a cheap lithium battery in the camper and buy a robust solar generator to run our 12v cooler. I do not see a reason to spend a lot of money on a camper power system; when a portable solution can be used in the camper as well as in the house during power outages.

I plan on doing this exact same set up with my Grandby (to be delivered next fall). I’m still in the process of figuring it all out, but trying to come up with the most economic solution with the greatest flexibility. The camper is coming stock with (1) 12V and I planned on having mainline overland handle the battery and solar system. Do you have any recommendations on the best path forward?

I’ve been looking at the bluetti AC300 it EP500pro which can double as an emergency system for my home. What system are you looking at?

 

[Freddydcruz]

I have a 2020 Hawk Shell, I installed 200 watts solar panel on the roof (not a hard task). I recently went away from a ice Chest to an. Iceco JP50 and a Bluetti EB70s. I have to original single AGM battery that wasn’t up to the task when new so I only rely on it for lights and the furnace. I will plug the fridge into it during the day with strong solar and into the Bluetti at night. Going down the road the Bluetti is plugged into the house AC and the fridge into the Bluetti for pass through charging. The fridge uses so little power that I can usually top off the Bluetti this way.
Everything is strapped in so I can remove it when home and use the Bluetti and fridge elsewhere.
I hope that helps and makes sense.

Going down the road the Bluetti is plugged into the house AC and the fridge into the Bluetti for pass through charging.

^^ can you clarify this a bit more?