A Western Odyssey (very photo heavy)

Only as a suggestion,do you need to go out of Yellowstone at the East exit (Cody)?
You could drive up the Hayden Valley,through Canyon/Tower than through the Lamar
Valley out the Cooke City exit than connect up with your original route to Red Lodge.
IMO that is a nicer but a bit longer route.
If you go out through West Yellowstone,you could go through the Red Rock NWR.
It's a gravel road and connects up with I15.Also there are some primitive camping sites at the lake.
Enjoy the trip.It's nice to be able to change travel planes as you go.
Frank
 
Ok folks, I'm in Jackson, Wyoming right now. I'm working on uploading pictures but it's not going well. It sounds like I got some good camping, hiking, and bicycling locations from a lady at the visitor's center, and I expect I'll be hanging out around Grand Teton NP for the next few days.

Once I get the pictures uploaded, I'll post updates for the following locations:
- Yankee Doodle Lake in CO
- Driving through and camping in Northern CO and into WY (the NW part of Roosevelt NF, the sand dunes nearby, and a quick camp at Medicine Bow NF)
- Driving through Southern Wyoming and up towards Alpine and Jackson (Including a wonderful drive on the back roads from La Barge to Alpine.
 
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July 8-10 – Colorado – Yankee Doodle Lake
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I had the week of July 4th off work. My last week of work would be the following week. I helped my brother move on July 2 or 3, and then was hanging out around Denver. I was enjoying it and was thinking I’d stay in Denver the entire week. But it got hot on Thursday and I checked the forecast for the weekend: even hotter. So I got my stuff ready and asked my brother for a location recommendation west of Boulder.

He said to go check out the Jenny Lake area (which is about 10 miles west of Nederland). So I did. There are two main lakes up there (Yankee Doodle, and Jenny) plus various smaller lakes. It’s nine miles of forest service road to get there. The road was a pain in the ass – tons and tons of medium-sized rocks. It took me 2.5 hours to drive those 9 miles.

Once I got to the lake, it was wonderful. I got up there Friday afternoon. There weren’t many campsites on the way up to the lake. There is a handful right by the lake though. Only one of them was occupied with someone set up to camp. I got a very good spot where someone had leveled out the ground to make a parking spot. The lake is surrounded on most sides by a steep hill, so some of the camp sites don’t have good flat spots for tents or parking.

The road was covered with a big snowdrift right after Yankee Doodle Lake. Jenny Lake is about a mile down the road. Over the weekend, some people got through the drift and smashed it down a lot. Now that it’s a few weeks later, I’m sure it’s pretty easy to get through.

There is a big ridgeline up above the two lakes. This is either the continental divide, or is close to it. At the top of the ridge you can see a LONG ways in all directions. It’s up at 11,500 feet and looking east, you can see over/past all the hills in some spots and see Boulder (or some city that way) and beyond. I don’t think there are any official hiking trails around this lake, but hiking was very easy because there were many tree clearings that you could see up to the ridges easily. I hiked a bit the afternoon I arrived and decided I wanted to hike along the big ridge. The next day I did so.

This is a really interesting area. Clearly someone had worked really hard a really long time ago to make this pass. The road continues up past the lakes and over the ridgeline. It appears they had originally tried to tunnel straight through right from Yankee Doodle Lake, but they only made it about 30 feet into the hill and gave up on that. They continued the road upwards and make a very short tunnel up near the top of the ridge. While driving back down the FS road, I spoke to an old guy that was mountain biking and he told me all about the pass. It was a railroad that was built over a hundred years ago. He told me about a location on the other side of the ridge where a helper locomotive flew off the tracks and down a big drop off (The engineer had noticed it’s brakes failed right at the top of the descent so he jumped out and let it go on it’s own)

Anyways – the hiking here was amazing. This was definitely the most scenic hiking I’ve ever done. When I first looked up at the ridgeline the first afternoon, I wasn’t sure if I’d be able to make it up there. It turned out to be quite easy. (I didn’t follow the road, I went up an older path/road (what had been a wagon trail) that was a shorter and much steeper route up to where the tunnel is.

Also, the lake made for a VERY refreshing swim.

I could only stay until Sunday because I had to get back to Denver to fly out Monday for my last week of work. Because of the FS road condition, I’ll only drive back up there if I’m planning to stay at least a full week.


PICTURES

This is the road going west from the highway. It follows the current railroad until that railroad enters a really long tunnel. (That rail line replaced the original line that was built passing up by the lakes I visited).

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On the way up the Forest Service road.
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The camping spot I used:
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This is Yankee Doodle Lake (the one I camped next to)
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This tunnel is up above the lakes. I thought it a little strange to make the tunnel so close to the top of the hill. I guess that must have been easier than blasting the rock entirely out of the way
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Up at the top of the ridge
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Having lunch at the top
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Looking the other way
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Can someone explain these? They were up at/near key spots (places with views, and there was a huge one above the tunnel). Who made them? When? What are/were they used for?
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This was along the old wagon road the went up to the tunnel. I walked up along the ridge on the right third of the picture.
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I wonder how much snow piles up here in the winter?
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Driving back down. This is representative of the road
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July 16 – The Last First Day
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I bought and started making my van into an Adventure Mobile in April 2015. Since finishing the van around March this year, I’ve had a number of what felt like “First Days”. The first was moving into the van. I did that on March 25. Then I sold my house and drove the van out of St Louis for good – that felt like a big first day. Then I finished up some work in Iowa and could drive the van west to Colorado. Then I had my first camping trips (of this year) in Colorado. Then I had the van in and around Denver for 3-4 weeks – what felt like a transitional period.

But on this day, I had finished my last week of work. I had made my preparations to embark – to leave Denver and head towards the northwest. This time, there would be no more going back to work. There would be no more ‘launch days’. This was it – this was the Last First Day.

I drove north from my brother’s house in Loveland and then west on Poudre Canyon rd. I went up to camp near Old Roach, in what I believe is part of Roosevelt National Forest.

I loved the drive up 103 (from 14/Poudre Canyon rd, to Hohnholz lakes). It had a lot of open spaces, ranch land, etc. I prefer that over dense trees that you can’t see beyond. The Hohnholz lakes are pretty nice. I wanted to jump in for a swim, but the first lake I stopped at (#2) it was cloudy and felt too cold, and the next (#3) had an extremely muddy and silty bottom and I just didn’t feel like swimming then. So I carried on into the National Forest and found a camping spot.


PICTURES

Along 103
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On Hohnholz lakes road
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There was a mostly smoldering fire west of this part of Roosevelt NF. The next day I drove through the smoke and saw some area that burned very recently.
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Campsite for the night
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When I laid down to go to sleep and turned the lights off, I noticed some lightening off in the distance. This group of clouds was lighting up a bit more often than once per second. It didn’t photograph well because it was just within the clouds and you couldn’t see any bolts, and because there was a full moon.
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SAND DUNES

The next morning I drove west out of the NF land and went south a bit to the sand dunes. I was surprised by how sandy they actually are. It is fine, soft, and deep sand. I almost got the van stuck a couple of times.

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Up next, Wyoming….
 
Great post. Keep them coming. If you haven't started a blog, you might want to consider one. I think you will have a lot of interested WTW people. Lots of blogs on this site to check out. Safe travels. jd

Sent from my SM-G900V using Wander The West mobile app
 
Great photos and TR!

If the stone walls were near a mountain summit, I'd say they were built and maintained by hikers and climbers as windbreaks or bivvies, but some of those small, stone structures above treeline in grasslands were likely built by 19th century shepherds to get out of the wind and weather when tending their summer herds. Maybe they threw a tarp over the top for even more protection. I've found ruined stone cabins, huge cairns and rock shelters as in your photo all over the grassy mountains of Colorado.
 
my_wild_dreams_ said:
When I laid down to go to sleep and turned the lights off, I noticed some lightening off in the distance. This group of clouds was lighting up a bit more often than once per second. It didn’t photograph well because it was just within the clouds and you couldn’t see any bolts, and because there was a full moon.
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That is just lovely!

Thank you for sharing and I look forward to more of your write-ups! :)
 
I too believe those stone structures are wind breaks. There are 5-6 of them on the ascent to the summit of Wheeler Peak (Nevada's highest mtn. @ 13,064' elev.) and believe me, they were certainly appreciated on the way up!

You found some incredible camping spots and a beautiful place to dodge the heat.

Looking forward to your Wyoming pics and report.
 
Depending on which way you are traveling through Wyoming, the Cliff Creek Fire (started 7/17/16) has highway 189/191 closed.



Evacuations and Hwy 189/191 Information
Incident: Cliff Creek Fire Wildfire
Released: 22 hrs. ago
Attention: Evacuations for Bondurant have been lifted, all Homeowners can return to their homes.

Hwy 189/191 will remain closed.



This is the main road leading from I-80 to Grand Teton National Park and Yellowstone.
 
Thanks for the warning.

Luckily, I came up on a back road to Alpine, and then went north through Jackson and into Grand Teton (So I didn't attempt to drive on that road that is closed).

Grand Teton was quite smokey yesterday, so I skipped GTNP and drove up through Yellowstone. It wasn't smoky up in Yellowstone yesterday. I'm in West Yellowstone (a small town) right now and will probably hang around for a few days in Yellowstone, the NF just over the Montana border, and West Yellowstone itself.
 
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DRIVING - Southern and Western Wyoming.
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MEDICINE BOW NF


After the sand dunes, I drove up into Wyoming and camped in Medicine Bow NF. I didn’t have or want to spend a lot of time looking for a good campsite since I’d only be spending the night there and taking off in the morning.


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LOTS OF DRIVING

I’m on a fairly short timeline to get to Seattle, so I drove straight through a big chunk of Wyoming. I drove from my camping site in Medicine Bow straight up to La Barge, WY.

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On the way, I came upon a HUGE lake/reservoir. It appears the Green River is dammed there. I saw a little area with a turnout and a small beach, so I pulled off.

I found one of the coolest history info signs I’ve seen so far:

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And then I went for a swim!
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Once I made it up to La Barge, I took some back roads up to Alpine. I went along La Barge Rd. (315), which becomes a number of other roads. Most of this road went along a nice little river.

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Something I didn’t know until I happened upon signs - there is national forest land along this route. On google maps, there is no green area so I thought it was all private land. But it’s actually a part of some National Forest. The NF border is about 40 miles from La Barge. I stopped to camp right after hitting the NF. I think I lost my campsite pictures.

The next morning, I drove the rest of the way to Alpine and then Jackson. I guess a bunch of emigrants traveled along this route. It’s about 90 miles from La Barge to Alpine, along a road that I didn’t traverse very quickly.

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Here are some seriously amateur videos. The first two are dash cam views while driving. I’ve been having trouble recording video with my GoPro - I end up with gaps where it didn’t record. At first I thought this was from the GoPro getting too hot (which it definitely does at times), but it also happens when it’s not very hot. So then I figured the micro SD card I’m using can’t support a fast enough writing speed. So I recorded in 720p and I think that video may still have gaps. I need to look into it further. So these driving videos below are from using time lapse pictures (some parts 1 picture per second and some parts 1 picture per 1/2 second.) And they are not very good. But if you’d like an idea of what driving these roads is like, here you go:

Driving through southern Wyoming to the Green River lake.

La Barge Road
(This shows part of the road - basically the first 10-20 miles.)

Part of my dip in the river


This is the route I took from Medicine Bow to Alpine. I also drove up to Jackson that same day (but for some reason I can’t get google to route correctly from Alpine to Jackson. Maybe something to do with the fire road closures. I took 89 and 191 and it’s a great drive.

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Carbon County School District 2 to Alpine
 
My-wild-dreams, looks like you are having a good time. Thanks for posting your trip. We are going to borrow Ski's post he sent you about Pinedale and Independence Rock. We will do it backwards coming home from Idaho in Sept. Enjoy your trip. Mitch P.S. Thanks Ski
 
Yes, I'm loving it.

I'm definitely moving faster and feel like I'm doing more than I will when I'm not on a deadline to get to Seattle.



and BTW, for any Instagram users, I'm my_wild_dreams_ on there.
 

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JACKSON, GRAND TETON, WEST YELLOWSTONE
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Ok, so I think I left off having made it up to Jackson. In short, Jackson is a cool town. I’d never seen so many obvious Vandwellers. (Flagstaff comes close, but there it’s more overland trucks and SUVs). The bad part about Jackson: the super-tourists and super tourist shops at the town square.

I observed the vacation process of the female Asian tourist:
- Always, ALWAYS walk with phone in hand. Half of the time, phone pointed at face either taking selfies or participating on social media.
- Walk up to something (could anything that stands out: maybe the arches made of (fake?) elk horns at each corner of the town square, or maybe the war memorial in the middle of it)
- Look at that thing for 2.5 seconds. Don’t read any of the text.
- Take selfies for the next 280 seconds. After the perfect selfie, take a picture with various combinations of your travel partners. If you are in front of a statue, pose just like the statue.

This was not specific to asian women, but they seemed to be the most developed in this phone-centric vacation process.

I saw a guy who sealed the deal on the Jackson town square image: he was walking across the street recording what was probably a video using a phone on a selfie stick. Halfway across the street, he finishes the video, and tucks the selfie stick under his arm. He also has a DSLR hanging from his neck. Ok, maybe next he will use that to take a picture? Nope. Syke! He pulls a TABLET out of I can’t remember where, and holds it up in front of him to take a picture (probably of the elk horn arch he was approaching) This man has fully mastered the art of juggling multiple devices to produce the highest rate of Facebook and Snapchat spam.

The town square is not all bad. There are some cool shops there. I was impressed with the hats in those shops. I don’t know hat names - these are big round ones, but not full cowboy hats. They seemed like ok deals for how nice they appeared. I could use a hat like that, but I don’t know prices or how to judge quality, so I passed, assuming they are as overpriced as some of the other things in their store.

The next better thing about the town square is the free Wifi. There is Jackson city-provided Wifi there. It works better towards the south side of the square. This was important, because while I had a full signal, the Verizon cellular data speed in Jackson is worthless for anything other than text.

The best thing about the square was a conversation I had there. I was sitting on a bench reading a book, and an older gentleman sat down on the other end of the bench. He wasn’t doing anything, just sitting there and looking around. He had been there 20-30 minutes when I got to a stopping point in my book and struck up a conversation with him. He’s had an interesting life, at least as far as his career goes. He grew up in NYC and at age 15, right after his father died, he quit school and bought a dump truck and a chainsaw. He went out to Western NY and hustled himself a job doing tree maintenance work at a college or university. Then he went to school there. He went down a few career paths, leading to him being involved very early in the semiconductor industry, and eventually getting a big windfall from the sale of a startup company he co-founded. He’s traveled to a many different parts of the world and is a thoughtful and clear-speaking guy. He had very good advice, but it was nearly all about work. I tried to get some advice from him on long-term self-actualization, but the best I could get was advice on where to spend time this fall/winter given my outdoor activity interests (he said California).

I spent about a day and a half in Jackson. I got maps and good advice at the visitor’s center, and bought a one-year National Parks pass. Next, I drove up into Grand Teton National park. I went to Jenny lake to go for a bike ride. There aren’t any good roads for road cycling in GTNP, but there is a 22 mile bike trail going from Jackson to Jenny lake. So I drove up to the lake and road to Jackson and back. I rode pretty hard and while I felt ok most of the ride, during the last 25% of it, I was fatigued. I could ride ok at an endurance or even tempo pace, but I had absolutely no top end punch. I didn’t really intend to ride so hard/long that I’d deplete my muscle glycogen like that. I used to ride a LOT, and was in WAY better shape a few years ago. It’s hard not to always compare myself to my best fitness

My neck, feet, and hands/wrists were quite fatigued by the end of the ride. It was too far/ too hard.. I need to ride less than that - about half as much at that exertion. That will be plenty to improve my fitness. And I need to work back up to all of my body being able to handle hard and long rides. There one silver lining in this is that I can get great workouts in without having to ride a bunch of hours now :-D :-D

The Tetons are really cool mountains. As my brother described to me about a week before, the area is pretty flat, and all the sudden the mountains shoot up steeply. They are very different from the Colorado rockies. They were similar to the mountains I saw years ago in Banff. I had a good clear view of them while driving up and while bicycling south. But when cycling back north, I noticed a lot of smoke from one or two of the nearby forest fires rolling in. By the time I got back to Jenny lake, it was really smoky and hazy. Enough to spoil all the good views. I didn’t take any pictures in GTNP before the smoke, and then it wasn’t worth it.

I was going to drive over to the National Forest east of GTNP to camp, but as I started driving that way, I could see it was smoky over there too. I decided to head up into Yellowstone and see if it was better there. So I drove north and the smoke gradually faded from view.

I didn’t take any pictures in Jackson. I need to start taking pictures in the towns also.

This was after I’d been driving north a bit, and it was less smoky than in the middle of GTNP, but still enough to spoil a view.

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I stopped at some of the geysers/hot springs/whatever they’re called. I did stop at Old Faithful. I was really hungry and decided to eat before I walked over. It erupted while I was eating. It was too late in the evening to wait around for the next one, so I continued west.

I’m just going to dump the pictures out. I’ll do some ruminating later on my overall impressions of Yellowstone and the surrounding areas.

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If you fall off, CERTAIN DEATH!
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When I’d get gusts of wind blowing from this one towards me, I’d feel pockets of air 30+ degrees warmer than ambient. wow!
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… Continued…

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(That’s a “Overdrive off” light, not a check engine)

I drove out the western edge of Yellowstone, to the town named West Yellowstone. I like this town much better than Jackson. It’s also a complete tourist town, but it has a different feel. It feels older. Simpler. Less like it’s trying to be something it shouldn’t be. It felt like a town suited to it’s purpose - to house, feed, and supply people going in and out of Yellowstone. No fancy jewelry stores. No designer clothes stores. It does have a few too many T-shirt stores, but if that’s a town’s only issue they are doing very well. Also, even while there were a lot of obvious tourists, including asian women, almost NO ONE had their phone in their face. People here seemed more in the moment. More connected with their travel partners. After the Jackson town square, that was very refreshing.

I’ll be going back through West Yellowstone on my way out of the area, and I promise I’ll take pictures this time.

I felt like I had been doing too much and moving too fast, so I spent about 36 hours holed up in West Yellowstone. When I left, it was to drive back into Yellowstone, taking the following route:

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https://www.google.com/maps/dir/West+Yellowstone/44.9752935,-110.6998326/44.949662,-110.0775013/45.0411372,-109.9126146/@44.6054913,-111.0138331,8.46z/data=!4m11!4m10!1m5!1m1!1s0x5351b9c07a322b03:0xdd639df748902010!2m2!1d-111.1041092!2d44.6621493!1m0!1m0!1m0!3e0


I stopped to hike up Mt. Washburn
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Is that a goat? (It's so small in this picture it almost looks like it could be a deer or an elk, but it's definitely not. It's about half the size of either of those)
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I was wondering what kind of waves were shooting through my body from all the stuff mounted on this lookout building at the top of Mt. Washburn.
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…. continued..



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Then I carried on driving towards and onto the Beartooth Scenic byway.
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I was surprised by how many waterfalls are in Yellowstone. I saw probably 15 so far.
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I was wondering if these bison are living as wild, or if they are cared for or managed. Anyone know? They seemed as docile as fully domesticated animals. If these act the same as the bison did two hundred years ago, it’s clear how easily a group of people could hunt them to extinction. You could walk up to these bison and shoot them execution style any they might not take a step in any direction other than falling over.

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Up next, camping at the northeast border of Yellowstone and driving the Beartooth pass! The views are about to get BIG!
 
Prong Horn Antelope in earlier picture. All animals live in the wild in yellowstone, except when the crazy people put a baby bison in there car, or the bus load of Asians want to walk up and try and pet a full grown bison. Loved your story. Laughing my A__ off. Great photos. jd

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