Absorption vs Compressor refrigerator

B

Boonie

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2016
Messages
193
Location
Brighton, Colorado
As some of you may know I am rebuilding a 1981 Grandby. It came with the RV standard propane/12v heat absorption refrigerator. It seems the current trend is to change over to a 12v compressor refrig, $650-$850. Of course this involves increased battery capacity, $120-$200 and a means to recharge the batteries, usually solar, $$600-$1000 or between $1,200 to $2,000 total depending of extent of the conversion.
(I will have a minimum of a 100w portable solar package either way I go.) The refrig. in the camper was replaced at some time and is in good working condition, so I don't need to replace it. Also I will need to keep the propane system to fuel the stove, so there is no savings there.

Since I am trying to get the biggest bang for my buck, do I want to spend my money here or elsewhere?

What are the advantages of either regardless of cost?

As always the varied input from this forum is greatly appreciated.
 
The compressor refrigerators cool down quickly, and don't have the level requirements that absorption refers do. The pro on absorption is the low current drain when on propane.

If it were me, I would stay with absorption until it fails, then make a decision at that point.

My preference in compressor refrigerators is the chest style. I believe they are more efficient than the front opening models.
 
Another thing about the compressor fidge, I run mine all the time and keep it supplied with staples (Cayusette would say that means I always have cold beer) but I keep soda and ice cream in it for her as well and various cheeses and meets that need to stay refrigerated but have long shelf lifes. It's nice to be able to leave work at night and take a left instead of a right and go spend the night someplace from time to time without having to think about what is in the camper or fridge.
 
Wandering Sagebrush really sums up this decision well.

I love my compressor fridge. It's amazing and a seriously better fridge that the absorption.

But compressor fridge -> more power -> more batteries -> more solar -> etc...

I wouldn't do it if the fridge works well. Although in full disclosure, I've made the switch personally before.

Did I mention that you may need to take off the door frame to get the fridge in or out?
 
I'll ad my voice to the chorus: I would stay with the absorption refrigerator and see if it works for you; assuming that it is in working condition. If you don't like it or it is not working well then you can replace it with a compressor frig. Absorption refrigerators work for some people and not for others. Compressor refrigerators are $$$.

As a data point; I have less than $1000 in 200W solar/ 208 AH battery system. It runs my compressor frig and other stuff well. I am seldom below 80% battery capacity in the AM.

jim
 
Stay with the current fridge, at least till it fails someday. If you camp mostly in hot weather 90+ degrees, then the comp fridge is the way to go as the propane fridge only gets about a 40-45 degree differential than the ambient temp. I like the fact that my propane fridge can run for a couple weeks on a single tank, sun or no sun or if I want a shaded camp area..
 
Old video from FWC but a good review of the refrigerator types offered..

http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=FWC+video+of++refrigerators&view=detail&mid=DBD35EE9AA7BD1DE7A62DBD35EE9AA7BD1DE7A62&FORM=VIRE


We went with compressor so as not to worry about temp differential, leveling requirements and propane use....and we have a total of 240w solar. We also shut off propane when on the road.

Of course the choices depend on a multitude of variables...cost, maintenance, which will you need to conserve or replenish-electrical or propane, where you are using it and the why-when do you need a refrigerator...not to even mention what size is needed.

Phil
 
I'm sitting in a 32' motorhome with an absorption fridge and top freezer as I write this. Big capacity and works like a champ. I really like my ARB 50 liter compressor fridge that I use in my off-road truck. Another vote for using what you have until it no longer works for you and then having a plan in mind for replacing it.
 
Sage sums it up.
I have a 3 way and find it very useful but not on 12v that's why I also have a Truvkfridge chest cooler.
Works great and has very low draw and low voltage safety limits.
Frank
 
I really have no voice as a newbie, my grandby shell will be delivered next week. I will start with a ARB portable fridge for the options it avails, chests don't lose the cool as front opening doors do, but if I had a working fridge and didn't 'need' to replace it I'd wait until it broke as there may be an option in the near future that doesn't exist now. Stuff is changing fast, who knows what you might be able to get next year.
 
Lobster1

I don't know if any of us has a voice, but we all have opinions. I am sure everyone will agree that yours is as welcome as anyone else.

Welcome to the forum.

Boonie
 
Boonie, My experience, my opinion, my use of my camper:

I still have the original Dometic RM 2193 3 way fridge in my mid 90's FWC Ranger II (Eagle) on a 1986 Toyota Extra cab SR5 Turbo pickup. I did not want to add the weight and complexity of another battery, solar and the rest of the paraphernalia necessary to run a compressor fridge. I have one Optima yellow top house battery (8 years old, no monitor) fed by the truck's stock 60 amp alternator through a constant duty solenoid and 10 gauge wires. The only electrical draw I have is LED lights, forced air furnace and water pump. I usually drive my truck every day when out and have never run out of power. The key to getting an absorption refrigerator correctly is to re-work the installation as the factory install is horrible. There is a post by "Roger" that has all of the information you need on the subject. Two computer fans are a must to keep maximum airflow through the coils. I can keep my fridge @ 40*-42* on a 100 day, but if its over 85*, I'm not camping there anyway. You will have to turn down the temperature a bit at night or things will start to freeze. I do cool down the unit before a trip and use a couple of 2 liter bottles of frozen water in the fridge to help a more even temperature. The water is still about 3/4 frozen after a weeks trip in the Sierras in July.

cwd
 
cwdtmmrs said:
...The key to getting an absorption refrigerator correctly is to re-work the installation as the factory install is horrible. There is a post by "Roger" that has all of the information you need on the subject. Two computer fans are a must to keep maximum airflow through the coils. I can keep my fridge @ 40*-42* on a 100 day, but if its over 85*, I'm not camping there anyway. You will have to turn down the temperature a bit at night or things will start to freeze. I do cool down the unit before a trip and use a couple of 2 liter bottles of frozen water in the fridge to help a more even temperature. The water is still about 3/4 frozen after a weeks trip in the Sierras in July.

cwd
Click to expand...
I searched and found Roger's fan install thread:
http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/4980-fridge-fan-exhaust/

Well worth a close read by all owners of 3-way fridges! It includes several links; there are lots of types of RVs out there with 3-ways...

If anyone has info on 3-way maintenance, I need to solve the problem of the flame blowing out. I'm kinda' assuming that when I tear into it I'll find some sort of burner orifice fouled by sooty stuff, but would appreciate any guidance!

I myself am likely to keep with the 3-way for the long term. Any electrical upgrades I do will be oriented towards the power req of my CPAP - that's an absolute first priority for some of us. And, we're lake & shade campers. All the desert photos look great and very inspiring, but we head for the water whenever we can! Not so much solar to be found in the trees of the PNW.


Sent from my iPad using Wander The West
 
I've been running absorption/120v for quite some time...maybe 20+ or so....great frig but the newer brushless motors are really efficient little critters and don't draw that much juice. I installed a copper heat sinc into the frig install and it works well with the two computer fans I put in with it. I would stay the course with yours as has been said...when it fails (first check the repair) then make the consideration.

Seth....what I have found is this....the burner material is steel on the gas frig's...as the burner heats then is shut off...all the plating eventually burns off and moisture then condenses on it rusting the orifices in the burner....the rust grows over several years and eventually blocks out enough gas to minimize the flame....by restricting the amount of gas you end up with a carbon buildup in tube requiring a swab out now and then...becoming more and more until it stops working.

By pulling out the burner and replacing the burner/jet assembly about every 5-7 years you will eliminate the trouble...takes about an hour or so and for the norcold 300.3 I have, the jet assembly is only $25.00. Making sure the orifice is clear and open...and the tube is free of carbon buildup takes care of the problem most of the time. When you get into the safety valve/thermostat....I have to go to the book. They are really simple frig's...but good operation of an absorption is a trick...fans/level/clean=HAPPY
 
Seth, thanks for finding the link. I looked but could not find it.

Rusty, great info. Please tell me more about the "copper heat sink"
 
Rusty - thanks for that orientation! As soon as things warm up a little I'll get into it. It's a '97, so perhaps it's past time for a new jet.

Boonie - someone has posted here from time to time about searching google instead of WTW using terms like this:
site:wanderthewest.com refrigerator fan
It's working for me!
I want strong google-fu ;-)


Sent from my iPad using Wander The West
 
Rusty thanks for the info on the burner cleaning.
Over the years I have had mine I try to clean it at the beginning of the season.
I use a small brush then air spray it to remove and particles left.
I haven't had any problems with my Dometic 3 way.
Frank
 
I guess I will vote for the side of changing it out to the compressor fridges. They do work much better and I like the fact there is no flame going on full time when I'm using my camper. To me, I would rather change it out and know its fixed and working the way I want it then worry about it not working correctly and turning a fun camping trip into a week of problems. Also, The compressor fridges are much larger inside then the same fridge of the propane fridge outside dims. So you have more room, more control over the temps inside and a much new appliance in your camper. To me that was the first thing I changed out. Now that I have solar, 225 amp hour of 6v batts I can camp a really long time with out worry. I picked up my camper for 3200.00 and have put about that in upgrades and new appliances and I am very happy with the results. Good luck either way you go and we look forward to seeing your progress.
 
97grandby, I am sure your set works great, but all of that is too much weight for Boonie's goals.

Seth, Do you have a re-lighter installed? It is a must have and additional baffles as well.

cwd
 
Boonie.....copper sheeting extending full width of the enclosure from the coils down to the mid point of the enclosure. Two computer fans mounted on the copper sheet pull air down from the top of the enclosure....it's an Alaskan so there are minimum clearances.
There are photos in my gallery

http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/gallery/image/10070-dsc01597jpg/

the copper also separates the burner area from the coils...heat isolation
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads - WTW

D
FOR SALE: 2020 Four Wheel Camper "Swift" black diamond fully loaded in great shape ($25,000)
Vic Harder
Vic Harder
5
Replaced Refrigerator
57Pan
5

New posts - WTW

Back
Top Bottom