Alaskan ram help.

[cptglen]

Hi All

New to this forum, new to Alaskan Camper Ownership.

I've recently bought a 70's era Alaskan cabover camper, beautiful interior (reminds me of some of the sailboats I've owned over the years, and mostly intact, with just a little rot, mostly in the corners) and just now starting to sort it out. Previous owner was less than helpful, and has little knowledge of the camper, I think he bought the truck under it, and just sold the camper. She's got some gaps forward though, and it's hard for me to see how she can seal up tight if it's blowing outside and winter. Fortunately, I try and run baja during the winter, or Key West and get some sailing in.

Anyway, I've sorted some stuff out, but could use a little advice. I understand the concept of the manual hydraulic jack and the 4 rams located in the camper, but having problems with the camper lowering. (It raises strong) The right front is lagging, and causing a minor bow in the ram which I'm sure is compounding the problem. It does lower and raise ok, though, and I suspect the front of the camper is much lighter than the rear??? It also have 4 valves, each, in line just before each of the brass rams. Would I use those as restrictors??? Say, full open forward and half in the rear? Or is their another purpose for them. Are they factory? and if so, did they come with factory settings? Looking for a base line, then tweak them from there.

Thanks in advance for any advice, and much appreciated.

Glen

 

[Mike S.]

Hi Glen and welcome. You are going to love your Alaskan, they are unique.

Yes the valves restricts the flow to each ram, it takes a little messing with then to make them work well. Mine only has 2 one for the front and 1 for the back, seems they are all a little different. As to setting them I started by closing mine then opening each until the top came down as even as possible. The back on ours still comes down a little ahead of the front but it does not seem to matter.

It takes work to get them airtight but it can be done. If you phone the Alaskan factory they have all the right parts and will ship them. They are good people and can answer all your questions.

We have used ours in the cold and snow and have always been warm. We like you love our trips to Baja and have learned to keep the front open for a cross draft to keep it cooler.

So what truck have your Alaskan on and where are you from? Cheers, Mike

 

[cptglen]

Hi Mike

Hey, thanks for getting back to me and the reply, I've been messing with them a bit, and figured it had to be something like that. I'll keep working on it, until I get it close. It still comes down, but the right front really lags and starts to bow a bit before finally coming down.

I wanted a low profile camper but something a bit more fixed than canvas, and I definitely like the wood interior. Very yachtie. I'm also trying to chase down a propane leak. Simple stuff, just tedious.

Mike, I'm a 100 ton yacht cpt. that bought a hundred acre farm smack in the middle of Missouri. My wife cruised our 37' Trimaran down in Baja, mainland Mexico down to Costa Rica for many years, then stuck it out with me when I started working boats for a living, and has always wanted a farm............So, here we are. I still have a couple of small Trimarans, 20' folding and a 17' folding and a couple of sea going kayaks. I also have some wonderful friends who live in La Paz, baja, so, I get down south as much as I can (especially the winters out here) for some fishing diving sailing etc...........Oh yeah, and some warm crystal clear water and lobster.

The truck is a 95 Dodge Ram 2500 4X4 3/4 ton with the old 12 valve Cummings diesel. Older 12 valve, loud, but a simple, dependable diesel that will run forever. I'm still managing 21 mpg with the camper on.

Anyway, thanks again. Get in touch at cptglen@hotmail.com I've done the Baja run at least a dozen times over the years, and half again as much by sea. maybe we can compare notes. take care. Glen

 

[Rusty]

After reading this a few days ago, I went out and took a look at mine....1970 10' NCO. No valves....anywhere....except the release valve at the jack......

I've always had a little issue with the camper coming down uneven, depending on the slope of the ground where I'm releasing it. I've always used the stair assist grab handle on the exterior of the top section at the rear and muscled it to where the window sill remained even with the bottom half. It's worked pretty well but every so often it locks up and you put a little pressure back on the system and it evens itself out.

If I'm not mistaken...this is probably why they went to the larger rams.....just a guess.

Has anyone changed out the older small diameter rams for the larger (I think they are 1") ones?

I hear the calling of another camper project ....I just happen to have alot of small diameter copper tubing laying around.....waiting for a project

 

[Tris]

I'm certainly not an expert at this stuff, but my assumption has been that the valves in the hydraulic system are intended to make the top rise evenly. If the problem is that the top doesn't come down evenly, then it might be something else. From the troubleshooting info in the 1969 manual posted elsewhere on this site, I'd guess it might be the slide in the sticky corner is providing some resistance that the others aren't. A cleaning and lube might help. The other possibility is that the ram is misaligned a little. You might try loosening the screw that attaches the top of the ram to the wall bracket,lowering the top, and then retightening it. Just some wild guesses...

 

[Tris]

After reading this a few days ago, I went out and took a look at mine....1970 10' NCO. No valves....anywhere....except the release valve at the jack......

I've always had a little issue with the camper coming down uneven, depending on the slope of the ground where I'm releasing it. I've always used the stair assist grab handle on the exterior of the top section at the rear and muscled it to where the window sill remained even with the bottom half. It's worked pretty well but every so often it locks up and you put a little pressure back on the system and it evens itself out.

If I'm not mistaken...this is probably why they went to the larger rams.....just a guess.

Has anyone changed out the older small diameter rams for the larger (I think they are 1") ones?

I hear the calling of another camper project ....I just happen to have alot of small diameter copper tubing laying around.....waiting for a project


My newer Alaskan has the larger cylinders and they work just fine. But it takes a much larger volume of fluid to extend them. That's the reason they went to the electric pump. I haven't had any problem with the pump either, but as long as your arm still works, I think the manual pump is bound to be more reliable. I hate to be dependent on anything electric if I don't have to. The main thing is that if you want the bigger cylinders, you're probably going to be buying a new electric pump too.

 

[Rusty]

Project cancelled....Tris, thanks for the reality check.....

the only drain on the battery I may be willing to install would be a water pump for the exterior shower addition .....strictly for the benefit of the neighbors

 

[MikeDahlager]

In my experience, it takes a very small amount of friction to cause a corner to drag The uneven raising and lowering of the top may due to one or more of the following causes:

1. Since your camper is a cab over design, the front half of the camper is much heavier than the rear. I believe this was compensated for by installing valves in the hydraulic lines so that the pressure could be adjusted to compensate for the differing weights between the front and the rear. If you have the valves installed, they may need adjusting.
2. The ram may be out of alignment. I would check the alignment of the ram as Tris suggested.
3. If the camper is not level when you attempt to raise or lower it, it will tend to jam. Make sure the camper is on the level ground.
4. The gasket seals may not be applying even pressure all the way around. This is unlikely if the gaskets are OEM. However, if they have been replaced, they may not be aligned properly.
5. Finally, my pick for the most likely reason your top is binding. Check to see if any of the attachment screws or bolts on the he stainless guides have worked loose, thereby creating a friction point on the slide. This was the cause of uneven raising and lowering on my 8'NCO. In addition, check them for contamination. Clean them with paint thinner or kerosene and lightly lubricate them with a quality axle grease.

 

[cologuyw/oldakcamper]

Captain. Here is my take on the irregular ram motion.

The inline valves are only for lowering the top at the same rate, or isolating when changing fluid or fixing seals.

When raising, all pressure from the jack, through the tubes, into the ram cylinder, is the same. The pressure on both sides of the small valves is equal. Having them squeezed down should only slow down and make it harder to jack.

As Mike D. suggested, mis-alignment of ram cylinders, dents in cylinders or guide / seal friction.

Just a thought. I wonder if those gas springs like are on car hoods have any application here?

I purchased a 65 - 10 ft. NCO last summer. Fixed it up with help from friends on this site, took it camping once, and used it about 25 times to nap, listen to ball games, or just relax in and admire the design and craftsmanship of a 45 year old piece of history. Steve from Colo.

 

[cptglen]

Hi All

Hey, thanks for all the great info.

The camper goes up strong. All 4 rams extending pretty evenly with each stroke, and the strokes are solid, no air. Couple of great points though, after checking, the truck is not squared on the ground, and the slides are still a bit gummy, so, that's probably half my problem there. I'll level the truck, clean up and lube the slides and go from there. I'll also tweak the valves some. I figured they were check valves one way, and metered to lower the camper. seems like if I restrict the 2 rears a tad, and maybe even the left front, and leave the right front wide open....................Anyway, ongoing project, and definitely appreciate the help. I really like the rig.

Once again, all, thanks for the advice.

Glen

cptglen@hotmail.com

 

[Hyakian]

5. Finally, my pick for the most likely reason your top is binding. Check to see if any of the attachment screws or bolts on the he stainless guides have worked loose, thereby creating a friction point on the slide. This was the cause of uneven raising and lowering on my 8'NCO. In addition, check them for contamination. Clean them with paint thinner or kerosene and lightly lubricate them with a quality axle grease.


This...

Had a similar issue with the first 77 8'co that I purchased.
It turned out that the slide guides in the front two corners of my camper were dry and somewhat gummed up with road grime and crap. Once cleaned and lubricated with some waterproof marine grade grease the problem was solved.

 

[cptglen]

This...

Had a similar issue with the first 77 8'co that I purchased.
It turned out that the slide guides in the front two corners of my camper were dry and somewhat gummed up with road grime and crap. Once cleaned and lubricated with some waterproof marine grade grease the problem was solved.



Hey all.
Thanks again. It's blowing a gail right now thru the midwest, Wind chill is in the negative, but, soon as it thaws a bit, gonna go out and apply some of that great advice. Have a feeling that leveling the vehicle and lubing the slides are gonna take care of a lot of the problem.

Can anybody give me some good links on parts for it. Early (1970) 8' Cab over. Mostly need to seal it up. Most of the rubber???? seals are cracking or missing, and for the cabover, (3 part folding) they used carpet strips to make the seals with. Not very effective. It's been blowing 20 to 25 knts all night, and now I can see powder (snow) around the entrance door seals, etc.

Once again. thanks for the advice.

Glen

 

[Kilroy]

After reading this a few days ago, I went out and took a look at mine....1970 10' NCO. No valves....anywhere....except the release valve at the jack......

I've always had a little issue with the camper coming down uneven, depending on the slope of the ground where I'm releasing it. I've always used the stair assist grab handle on the exterior of the top section at the rear and muscled it to where the window sill remained even with the bottom half. It's worked pretty well but every so often it locks up and you put a little pressure back on the system and it evens itself out.

If I'm not mistaken...this is probably why they went to the larger rams.....just a guess.

Has anyone changed out the older small diameter rams for the larger (I think they are 1") ones?

I hear the calling of another camper project ....I just happen to have alot of small diameter copper tubing laying around.....waiting for a project


I switched to the larger diameter tubes (1 1/2") on my 98. Brian at the factory suggested they work a lot better than the smaller tubes. And they do. I use to have problems with going down and up unevenly. To the point going down it would sometimes bind up and ended usually slowing up the faster moving corner to help come down evenly. Problem got worse when we installed awning on left side. Haven't had any problems since install of new tubes. Another reason for new tubes is I also want to be able to carry a canoe. One downside to larger tubes is longer raising time. More volume to fill.

 

[Rusty]

Thanks David,

That brings up another issue....I'm 38 pumps up.....non-electric.....looking at the new volume of the 1" tubes.....I'm thinking about 50-60 pumps....I'll give that one a little more thought too. Always something else.....

Ross

 

[Kilroy]

I don't think the electric pump is that expensive. The hand pump would be nice for a backup. Bet it costs almost the same as an electric pump though.

Sometimes I have to switch fingers holding the pump switch down now that we have the larger tubes and it takes longer to raise.

Snows over now. Just real cold. 5F this morning.



Thanks David,

That brings up another issue....I'm 38 pumps up.....non-electric.....looking at the new volume of the 1" tubes.....I'm thinking about 50-60 pumps....I'll give that one a little more thought too. Always something else.....

Ross

 

[Rusty]

Sometimes I have to switch fingers holding the pump switch down now that we have the larger tubes and it takes longer to raise.


Funny Dave ....

It still provides me with a little extra cardio....