Alaskan Weight

banderswipe

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Hi all, I have a 1972 10' Alaskan NCO camper,does anyone know how much it weighs. I am trying to decide wether to buy a 3/4 ton or a 1 ton pickup truck. I would appreciate any help with these questions. Thanks.
 
I don't know how much it weighs but I would get the one ton. I've never heard any one say" I bought to much truck for my camper."

Mike
 
I agree with slim you never have enough truck. This Saturday ill be picking
up my FWC Grandby and putting it on A Ford 1 ton. Happy Truck shopping.

Paulie :rolleyes:
 
Hi all, I have a 1972 10' Alaskan NCO camper,does anyone know how much it weighs. I am trying to decide wether to buy a 3/4 ton or a 1 ton pickup truck. I would appreciate any help with these questions. Thanks.


There is very little difference between the 2007 single rear wheel F350 and F250. Mostly 2 more inches of block in the rear to manage the heavier loads. Just buy the 1 ton!! You might find you need it later.
 
Go with the one ton. Either way its a big truck. Not sure what the weight is on your alaskan but its not light. Better to get the right truck under it than adding air bags, springs etc, later. Everything is a tradeoff. My truck can't to everywhere my jeep can go, but have you ever tried to sleep in a jeep?
 
Thank you all for your input. So far concensus seems to be go with the 1 ton. How about dual wheel verses 2 wheel 1 ton. Anyone care to offer an opinion,Scott mentioned the 2007 Ford 250 and 350 were similar would that be the same for 95 or 96 Fords as these model years are in my price range. Thanks, Kevin.
 
Thank you all for your input. So far concensus seems to be go with the 1 ton. How about dual wheel verses 2 wheel 1 ton. Anyone care to offer an opinion,Scott mentioned the 2007 Ford 250 and 350 were similar would that be the same for 95 or 96 Fords as these model years are in my price range. Thanks, Kevin.


FWIW concerning dual vs single rear wheel. The dual rear wheel trucks are wider at the rear. Depending on your campers lift system, to get it loaded may require modification, or swing out brackets to clear when loading. The plus is the dual wheel trucks tend to be a little more stable going down the road. The other thing to consider is if your operating environment includes tight timber maneuvering the wider rear, while very do-able can be a hassle. Professionally, the biggest issue we have with dual rear wheel 4x4 trucks is we go through a few tires due to sidewall failure. Basically operating off road the duals get a rock wedged between them and if not noticed in time the rock breaks the sidewall of usually one but sometimes both tires. A spin off of the same scenario is the rock stays stuck in the duals till we hit the highway then releases at 55-65 mph. Just makes noise on the flat beds as they're stout enough to take it, but we had a pickup style 1 ton that got a soft ball size hole blown through one of its fenders, (Its outer fender was fiberglass). The plus is if you choose a 1 ton flat bed is the expanded storage possibilities using the outside areas where the camper is narrow at the bottom to clear the wheel wells on a standard fleet side pickup bed. If you go to the Alaskan Company website they used to have several photos of different truck/camper combos including 1 ton and heavier trucks.

I hope this helps and best of luck in your search for a suitable truck. As already stated I'd err on the side of excess capacity.
 
Thank you all for your input. So far concensus seems to be go with the 1 ton. How about dual wheel verses 2 wheel 1 ton. Anyone care to offer an opinion,Scott mentioned the 2007 Ford 250 and 350 were similar would that be the same for 95 or 96 Fords as these model years are in my price range. Thanks, Kevin.

I always thought that the dual rear wheels were just a gimmick until I drove a friend's Dodge 3500 on a twisty road. It handled like a sports car on steroids. I also agree with one of the previous posts; You can never have too much truck for an Alaskan Camper.
Mike
 
Most seem to think dualies suck offroad. No personal experience here. Glad you mentioned the rocks between the duals. When I was working for CDF it was mandatory to check for rocks, not because they were worried about fenderwells or sidewall damage, but because they can get flung out on the road, potentially killing someone.
 
Hi Dan thanks for the info on the rocks between the duals. I would have found that out the hard way. As to other box styles, I like the idea of using a utility box,this seems to make realy good use of space. I dont know if they make a 10' footer though. I have seen lots of 8' foot utilities. You make a good point about manouverability i expect the turning radius is prety lousy on an long box crew cab dually. Thanks every one for your info this is a great forum.
Kevin.
 
Well I been and gone and dunit! I bought a Truck. I am now the owner of a White 1997 Ford F350 XL crew cab long box,she has a 351 5.8 litre gas engine with automatic transmission and 50,000 miles on her. I think she will be a perfect match for my 10' Alaskan.Alas kan only go where 2 wheel drives wil go, so our travels will be somewhat limited.I will try and post some pictures when i figure out how to get them small enough.
Thanks everyone for your input, Kevin.
 

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Under 300 bucks Kevin....for yours...get the bolt up variety and not the drill in...the bolt up will line up with the holes already in your frame....install the schraeder valves in the bumper on either side of your plate

of course you can install the super deluxe model with the compressor under the hood and the controls in the cab....but you'll pay through the nose for the kit....keep them at 80# pressure and the tires at 80#....rides real nice
 
Here's a link to a number of manufacturers...if you can get ride rite or firestones...they are the ones

http://www.truckaddons.com/Catalog/subpages/ridrite.html?GTSE=goog&GTKW=firestone+air+bag+suspension&gclid=CLPMvZLz-6MCFQMBbAod4zvjHg&ad=5801938095
 

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