I have a 2007 Chevy HD2500 with an 8' bed and my Alaskan 8' camper will not slide all the way into the bed of the truck as the truck has a part of the bed body on both sides which blocks the camper from sliding in all the way. This part of the bed is actually part of the bed body (ie. Metal) on both sides. Has anyone out there run into this same problem and how was the problem alleviated. I imagine the part of the bed which is blocking the camper needs to be cut but I am curious if anyone else has had this problem and I am looking for suggestions. Thank you.
Alaskan Won't Fit
- Thread starter cousinjc
- Start date
BSS
Contributors
how much material is the camper blocked by? Is it the inside edges of the bed rails?
how much material is the camper blocked by? Is it the inside edges of the bed rails?
It needs an inch or so on each side more clearance to slide in.
The back of the bed on each sidewall has a rise about two inches or so rise. The rise itself is about 3 inches wide and extends the full height of the bed sidewall. The bed itself is wide enough but this rise blocks the camper from fully going into the bed of the truck. I am thinking maybe I can have a body shop cut the rise out and reinforce.
It needs an inch or so on each side more clearance to slide in.
The back of the bed on each sidewall has a rise about two inches or so rise. The rise itself is about 3 inches wide and extends the full height of the bed sidewall. The bed itself is wide enough but this rise blocks the camper from fully going into the bed of the truck. I am thinking maybe I can have a body shop cut the rise out and reinforce.
fish more
Senior Member
I have a friend who purchased a Lance Camper, they had the same problem. On GM newer trucks the way the side panels are formed will not allow the camper to fit properly, unless you add some wood to the floor to raise the camper up enough to clear the bedsides. Now would be the time to trade up to a Ford ! Or you can go to a body shop and modify this area of the bed to fit the camper, as my friend did. After the mod to John's new Chevy, his camper fit fine, just a poor design by GM.
I have a friend who purchased a Lance Camper, they had the same problem. On GM newer trucks the way the side panels are formed will not allow the camper to fit properly, unless you add some wood to the floor to raise the camper up enough to clear the bedsides. Now would be the time to trade up to a Ford ! Or you can go to a body shop and modify this area of the bed to fit the camper, as my friend did. After the mod to John's new Chevy, his camper fit fine, just a poor design by GM.
Thank you.
Thank you.
Alley-Kat
Elder Statesman
Not sure this will help you...
However, on Ford Rangers there is part of the metal bed on back left side that has an slanted or angled raised section for the fill tube to an extra gas tank that was never built for Rangers. Some guys remove the spare tire and figure out how to fabricate a mount for a Ford Bronco II second gas tank there and of course, put in a gas fill door.
This raised fill tube part prevents the botton left rear corner of the camper from sitting down all the way into the truck bed.
Not a good thing.
When I ordered the Bobcat I was offered two choices, 1) a simple cut of the offending corner of the camper with an angled piece of material put in place, which means I would have this funny shape on the inside of the camper where I wanted to put my Port-A-Potti and it wouldn't fit there if I did this option, or 2) beat down the offending part of the truck bed when it was time to mount the camper.
To fit my ATC Bobcat in my Ranger, Marty and I beat the raised metal section down with a small sledge hammer. Marty thought we were going to rip the metal of the bed or at least cause some kind of an opening to appear (he stopped working on it at that point in time and I continued on).
However, the beating just removed the paint and the thickness of the metal was good enough to hold together. I think the galvanization or base coating was still on the metal and I can see it without taking the Bobcat off. It hasn't rusted yet.
We moved the metal a maximum of at least 1.5 inches on the top & bottom of the angled raised section and a slightly larger amount near the middle of the angeled raised section, maybe 2". It was a lot of work and I'm glad I had my heavier (2 lb) and longer handled (20") mini-sledge with me. We beat the (%@& out of it.
This may work if the area is only 4" x 6", like mine was.
If you've got a bigger section, the making of a camper lift to clear the area is probably a better idea.
If you can't use aluminium and have to go with wood... seal it, coat it, and paint it well.
However, on Ford Rangers there is part of the metal bed on back left side that has an slanted or angled raised section for the fill tube to an extra gas tank that was never built for Rangers. Some guys remove the spare tire and figure out how to fabricate a mount for a Ford Bronco II second gas tank there and of course, put in a gas fill door.
This raised fill tube part prevents the botton left rear corner of the camper from sitting down all the way into the truck bed.
Not a good thing.
When I ordered the Bobcat I was offered two choices, 1) a simple cut of the offending corner of the camper with an angled piece of material put in place, which means I would have this funny shape on the inside of the camper where I wanted to put my Port-A-Potti and it wouldn't fit there if I did this option, or 2) beat down the offending part of the truck bed when it was time to mount the camper.
To fit my ATC Bobcat in my Ranger, Marty and I beat the raised metal section down with a small sledge hammer. Marty thought we were going to rip the metal of the bed or at least cause some kind of an opening to appear (he stopped working on it at that point in time and I continued on).
However, the beating just removed the paint and the thickness of the metal was good enough to hold together. I think the galvanization or base coating was still on the metal and I can see it without taking the Bobcat off. It hasn't rusted yet.
We moved the metal a maximum of at least 1.5 inches on the top & bottom of the angled raised section and a slightly larger amount near the middle of the angeled raised section, maybe 2". It was a lot of work and I'm glad I had my heavier (2 lb) and longer handled (20") mini-sledge with me. We beat the (%@& out of it.
This may work if the area is only 4" x 6", like mine was.
If you've got a bigger section, the making of a camper lift to clear the area is probably a better idea.
If you can't use aluminium and have to go with wood... seal it, coat it, and paint it well.
BSS
Contributors
That's what I was thinking - beat it back in with a hand sledge. Just make sure to move/relocate any wires or fuel lines running behind there first.
LT Traveler
Senior Member
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2011
- Messages
- 121
Similar problem but different location, see what was done here, might offer some guidance.
http://www.wildsnow.com/2228/eagle-cap-711-review/
http://www.wildsnow.com/2228/eagle-cap-711-review/
Similar threads - WTW
- 59Napco
- Alaskan Camper Discussions
- Replies: 5
- Views: 289
- CGSwimmer
- Alaskan Camper Discussions
- Replies: 13
- Views: 949
- Shawn S
- Alaskan Camper Discussions
- Replies: 7
- Views: 1K
- Ghosty
- Alaskan Camper Discussions
- Replies: 11
- Views: 990
