Already overweight with my Ram 2500/ Hawk combo

Durango1

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Mar 29, 2012
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532
Let me apologize in advance for monopolizing the discussion with my camper decision drama! :)

So as I've mentioned Sioux and I just finished up our 3 week 40th Anniversary 4200 mile odyssey and had a great time. And I felt like my 2012 Ram 2500 with the Hemi and the Hawk on back did just fine. The only suspension mod I've made was adding air bags.

Even so, I really want to sell the Hawk and put an aluminum flatbed on my Ram 2500 with a new Hawk Flatbed model. (More interior room/ more amenities.) So I just weighed my current setup with full tanks and all our gear except (cough, cough) Sioux and it came in at 8900# which is 100# over the GVW! If I go with the Hawk flatbed combo I'll be several hundred pounds heavier!

So can I (should I) do this? (The big benefit of moving up to the flatbed is I can stay with my current Ram 2500 truck.) But I will be 400# or more over the GVW with the missus on board! (Not all due to her.) My options:

1. Sell current truck and buy a new 350 diesel. But I calculate a 20,000 buck hit between depreciation, extra cost and sales tax/registration. Meanwhile, my 2012 Ram only has 16K miles and is in perfect condition.

2. Beef up my 2500's suspension a bit more. Sway bar, extra spring in back? It handled fine on our journey over weight as-is.

3. Suck it up and exercise some self-control on what we take with us! (Harder to do than write.) :)

4. A combination of "3" and "4"

What I don't want to do is buy/mount the flatbed and new Hawk and find my existing Ram 2500 just can't handle it. Suggestions, anyone? And thanks in advance!

Steve
 
There have been exhaustive GVWR discussions so won't go there. I too am configured with an F250 Diesel and Hawk that is within the axel ratings but 400 over GVWR. I added Super Springs and it handles the load fine. So would yours. i see this as a matter of living with myself if the cause an accident. I have done test panic stops both on a curve and straight with no sway and in absolute total control. I know that I'm configured safe and if something happens can get up the next day and look myself in the mirror.

I think you could do either and be safe. So 20k for a new truck vs. cost of conversion and diminished value of modifying existing truck? You have a nice rig. If me, I'd stick with what you have,... For a while at least. You could list the whole package. If you get your price, then go for it. If you want the diesel then that goes in a plus column for doing it now. Maybe rationalize some fuel savings too?

BTW,. I have the 6.7 Powerstroke and love it, but they are all good, even Fiat. I haven't found a grade yet if left to cruise control at highway speeds only downshifts going down hill. 16.1mpg overall, with hawk 100% and towing boat 10%. I wish they put a smaller diesel in 3/4 and 4/4 trucks for us FWCers. I would vote for less power and better fuel mileage, but we are the anomaly user for these trucks. It's like a Cadi on the highway inside. No reving hunting for gears.
 
I'm going to agree with Kispiox.
I would find out what Ram did to upgrade their 3500 SRW over what you have and do that. In the case of Ford the only difference between the F-250 and the F-350 SRW is the 350 has a 4" block instead of a 2" block over the rear axle...

I'm sure you probably know this but you might want to consider E rated tires. Many of those have a rating of 3750# per tire which should easily carry your FWC. Also consider a rear sway bar if you won't need the articulation.
 
My Ram 2500 CC CTD carries a Hawk, my wife, and two pit bulls. Sometimes towing a single axle trailer and a hog. It handles it fine, no airbags. I drive it very conservative though. I guess if money were no issue, If move to a 350. If money is an issue, just beef it up a little.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions. I really would prefer to keep the Ram 2500 if it will be adequate. I am a conservative and careful driver. (I don't care what Sioux says!)

smlobx said:
I'm sure you probably know this but you might want to consider E rated tires. Many of those have a rating of 3750# per tire which should easily carry your FWC. Also consider a rear sway bar if you won't need the articulation.
It has the stock E-rated Michelin LT 285/70R17 tires on it now and I can't seem to wear them out! They are rated at 3195#. Good enough?
 
Durango- I believe that you have D rated tires. Is the max inflation 65 psi?

E rated tires usually have an 80 psi max inflation and their load capacity is in the 3750# range (may vary with size). Going to E rated tires would give you over a half ton more capacity on your rear axle assuming everything else can handle it. I'm going to go on the Ram website and see what the axle ratings of the 2500 are if I can find them.

I'm in construction and I used to get flats fairly regularly. Then someone told me about going to E rated tires and I hardly ever get any now...

Hope this helps.


Edit: found this PDF chart.
http://www.ramtrucks.com/en/towing_guide/pdf/RAM.2500.3500.Towing.Specs.pdf
And it looks like your rear axle rating is around 6000# and your empty weight should be just under 3000# depending on your exact configuration so you should have in excess of 3000# additional capacity over your rear axle. You should also have an additional 1500#'s or so capacity over the front axle so maybe you could shift some of your weight forward a bit to help with your rear set up.

In looking further it appears there is no difference in the brakes or axles of the 2500/3500 SRW so the difference is the tires...
 
Let your conscious be your guide, if your at ALL worried about it go with the 3500 diesel, it's a wonderful truck. I have a 2015 2500 MegaCab with a fully loaded Hawk. With full fuel, full water, supplies and two adults I'm 600 lbs over GVW. My truck does just fine, would I rather have a 3500 of course. I just arrived in Nashville, TN from Reno, NV, the trucks mpg computer read 17.9 on arrival, pretty amazing. The MegaCab vs the CrewCab adversely affects the GVW, but storage room in the cab is excellent. Hindsight says the 3500 would have been a better match, in my opinion. Just some food for thought.

Brian
 
My 2015 RAM 2500 CC CTD has a 10,000 GVWR which I believe is really for the insurance companies and the DMV to be happy considering non-commercial. According to RAM's SAE J2807 compliance chart my base weight is 7.640 and max payload 2,360. GAWR for both axels adds up to 11,750 so I'm assuming there's a little wiggle room in the numbers. Have not weighted my truck and am awaiting delivery of an Alumline flat bed and Hawk to go on it. I've been estimating my camper weight with options and loaded for fun. Looks like I'll be over a little as well, but not anywhere near as overweight as people with well optioned Fleets on Tacos. This is why I opted to move up to the 2500. Here's a link to RAM's chart for 2012, in case you haven't seen it.

http://www.ramtrucks.com/en/towing_guide/pdf/RAM.2500.3500.Towing.Specs.pdf

In short I agree with the others, E rated tires, pay attention to the axel ratings, and beef-up the suspension if you feel it's needed.

Dean
 
I thought the ram 2500s all had E rated tires. Mine does at least. Also from 2014 up, the difference between a 2500/3500 are rear coils vs springs, and I believe the tranny option for the 3500 includes an aisin for the automatic. The frames are the same.
 
All of this talk about combination weight has me curious about weighing our combo. Might have to wheel it down to the local truck stop and see what it all weighs.
 
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