Alternate uses for jack brackets

Hollow core, no panel (smooth or flat surface) door blank (no hinge, door handle or striker cut outs), put on a Formica top.
Hollow core doors are very strong and flat, yet light weight.

Maybe do all sides (edges), top and back in Formica (sort of water proof, if it's always going to be outside). Formica is easy to apply with contact cement. Need a router to really make the Formica edges look nice, but a cheaper solution is to cut the Formica close (after gluing it down, do the edges first, then the top or back) and then file the Formica edges smooth.

Smallest door blank I've seen is 24" x 80" at places like Home Depot and Lowe's. If you have to cut it to size (by a fair amount), then you may need to trim the honey comb insides just a bit where you cut the door and insert (glue & clamp) a new light weight wood edge to make it look "finished" and reseal the door where it was cut.

That's the best explanation I can give. If you're confused and still interested, ask specific questions if you need to and I'll try to answer.
 
I built a mount to attach to the back to hold my four recovery boards.
full
 
to avoid tearing shoulders, jackets, etc on these brackets.., we have 4 x 2' (approx) pieces of grey foam insulation (used to insulate water pipe), after stopping we immediate attach/wrap around the brackets which include the bolt/nuts (used to attach the struts)...they "snap" around the existing nut/bolts to "hold" nicely during our stay...now if you get too close rounding the back corners, you first rub / bump against the foam covers... these are the last accessories to come off before we leave a camp spot--tucked into a "junk container" just inside our back door...
 
Regarding folding table stuff! This will be a wonderful spring project for me as I don't have an enclosed workshop.

In the meantime, I look forward to seeing the pictures and plans posted by engineer types on this list.

Happy Yule!
 
Spud said:

Photo of your installation?

Sounds good...tied on...how they are zip tied is what I can grasp...I did about the same, but used 100 mph tape and a diagonal zip tie...not as elegant as these 90 degree pieces you are using..whatever I use must stay on while traveling..taking on and off would not work for us...
 
bsam, How is that ski carrier working out? could you share any more detail, clearer images? I would like to duplicate. Roof and skis is a PITA
 
With knowledge of the inherent weakness of the roof design, this coming spring I’m going to fabricate an aluminum roof rack system that will bear all weight on the jack brackets. The rear cross member will be behind the rear of roof the so that it will stay in place when raising the roof, the front cross member will have some kind of quick detatch system. I may incorporate mounts for a batwing awning and/or a shower enclosure.
 
Northbynortheast said:
With knowledge of the inherent weakness of the roof design, this coming spring I’m going to fabricate an aluminum roof rack system that will bear all weight on the jack brackets. The rear cross member will be behind the rear of roof the so that it will stay in place when raising the roof, the front cross member will have some kind of quick detatch system. I may incorporate mounts for a batwing awning and/or a shower enclosure.
This could be awesome! Please share updates!
 
A few more photos of the ski rack (hopefully I figured out how to actually post photos this time). I've had a few people ask me about the 8020 material I used. I got two different lengths of part number 40-4040-UL: 84" and 25". Thought I was buying them long and would just cut them to size, but they turned out to be pretty spot on length for the fleet, so I haven't cut anything. Everything is just attached with M6 bolts and t-nuts. Nothing has come loose in 2 months on the camper on some pretty wash-boarded roads (I put lock-tight on everything just in case and always keep wrenches in my toolbag).

So far working out great - works especially well with one pair of skis, but gets a tiny bit tricky to get the skis up there with multiple sets. So far I've only had several sets of skis on it when I have multiple people with me; one person can hold the skis and the other can close the Yakima brackets, so it's really a non-issue. 1000% better than on the roof or keeping them in the camper.

I think I've got about an inch and a half of clearance between the bindings and window, but for alpine bindings I don't think it would be difficult to put a spacer under the Yakima racks to add another inch if needed.

Now hopefully these images work...

gallery_7946_149_75848.jpg


gallery_7946_149_301558.jpg
 
Bsam22--

Thankx for sharing the tslot frame information... So elegant.

I look forward to seeing others flip down table projects using this! Please post plenty of pictures and plans!

Happy Festivus!
 
Nice looking rack construction! ...do you cover your bindings while traveling to keep out the road grit [or cover the tips of skis facing forward]?
 
Wallowa said:
Nice looking rack construction! ...do you cover your bindings while traveling to keep out the road grit [or cover the tips of skis facing forward]?
Nope, the skis have stayed surprisingly clean, it was one of my main worries with not having them on the roof. I've just had a few specs of dirt to clean off of them after 7 or 8 trips to the mountain so far and I think that's because my tires are wider than the wheel wells by an inch or so. I might put on mud flaps eventually to see if that helps, but so far they haven't gotten dirty enough for me to consider it a problem.
 
MountainSufi said:
Bsam22--

Thankx for sharing the tslot frame information... So elegant.

I look forward to seeing others flip down table projects using this! Please post plenty of pictures and plans!

Happy Festivus!
When ski season is over and I'm back into projecting, a flip down table that attaches to the 8020 t-slot is next on my list (along with fly rod mounts)
 
bsam92 said:
A few more photos of the ski rack (hopefully I figured out how to actually post photos this time). I've had a few people ask me about the 8020 material I used. I got two different lengths of part number 40-4040-UL: 84" and 25". Thought I was buying them long and would just cut them to size, but they turned out to be pretty spot on length for the fleet, so I haven't cut anything. Everything is just attached with M6 bolts and t-nuts. Nothing has come loose in 2 months on the camper on some pretty wash-boarded roads (I put lock-tight on everything just in case and always keep wrenches in my toolbag).

So far working out great - works especially well with one pair of skis, but gets a tiny bit tricky to get the skis up there with multiple sets. So far I've only had several sets of skis on it when I have multiple people with me; one person can hold the skis and the other can close the Yakima brackets, so it's really a non-issue. 1000% better than on the roof or keeping them in the camper.

I think I've got about an inch and a half of clearance between the bindings and window, but for alpine bindings I don't think it would be difficult to put a spacer under the Yakima racks to add another inch if needed.

Now hopefully these images work...

gallery_7946_149_75848.jpg


gallery_7946_149_301558.jpg

OK, this is VERY cool! Thanks for the share.
 

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