Lighthawk
Weekend warrior
We initially had invested in two AT Overland Rotopax Holders for GEN 2 Rotopax and two 2 gal. rotopax vessels. However, the gas cans grew in size and became stuck in the holders. I was unable to remove the gas cans in the field. Once I got home I had to remove the holders and use a 2x4 to prize the gas can out of each holder.
I called AT Overland and they said it was my responsibility to vent the gas cans every few days, due to temperature variations. There's actually a warning on the gas can too. I mentioned it's not uncommon for us to drive from Lone Pine over Tioga Pass which is a 6,000' gain in elevation which can also pressurize the gas can. Ultimately AT Overland said they would take back the holders, and I agreed to keep the gas cans. They had a cool idea using the jack brackets for mounts, but their holders are flawed, IMHO.
I decided to use plus nuts to mount the rotopax base. The trick is to find the studs, which were ~10" in from the corner and to verify I had enough room to slide the gas can over the base. I used a stud finder, but found tapping to be a better indicator. I used some Dicor butyl seal tap around the head of each plus nut. They seem sturdy enough with the plus nut inside the stud face, sandwiching the siding up against the base of the rotopax. We just did 600 miles, including 70 miles of Death Valley washboard with zero issues using the new set up.
I called AT Overland and they said it was my responsibility to vent the gas cans every few days, due to temperature variations. There's actually a warning on the gas can too. I mentioned it's not uncommon for us to drive from Lone Pine over Tioga Pass which is a 6,000' gain in elevation which can also pressurize the gas can. Ultimately AT Overland said they would take back the holders, and I agreed to keep the gas cans. They had a cool idea using the jack brackets for mounts, but their holders are flawed, IMHO.
I decided to use plus nuts to mount the rotopax base. The trick is to find the studs, which were ~10" in from the corner and to verify I had enough room to slide the gas can over the base. I used a stud finder, but found tapping to be a better indicator. I used some Dicor butyl seal tap around the head of each plus nut. They seem sturdy enough with the plus nut inside the stud face, sandwiching the siding up against the base of the rotopax. We just did 600 miles, including 70 miles of Death Valley washboard with zero issues using the new set up.