another wiring question

DarinH

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 22, 2020
Messages
118
Location
western Colorado
Since my wife donated my Electricity For Dummies book to Goodwill awhile back (without my permission of course), I have to figure this out the old fashion way - bug my WTW Forum friends.

Christmas comes early for me this year when I pick up my new Grandby this Friday (3/26). Dealer says they use 10 ga. wire from truck to camper. Do I need, or should I request, thicker guage for quicker charging from truck?

Here's the camper elec options:
dual 6v batteries
160w roof solar
130 liter 2 way fridge (elec only)
furnace
2 roof fans
stock indoor led lights and all available exterior led lights

truck:
dual batteries and dual alternators. total 430 amps (I think)
 
DarinH said:
Dealer says they use 10 ga. wire from truck to camper. Do I need, or should I request, thicker guage for quicker charging from truck?

Here's the camper elec options:
dual 6v batteries
160w roof solar
130 liter 2 way fridge (elec only)
furnace
2 roof fans
stock indoor led lights and all available exterior led lights

truck:
dual batteries and dual alternators. total 430 amps (I think)
What type of batteries, AGM?
What type of charger are they installing, Blue Seas relay?
How quick of a charge do you want?

If you want quick charge, from truck alternator- and you have a massive amount of alternator and battery power up front, according to what you are describing - you will want to install a DC to DC charger, and that will require significantly heavier wire. People have used everything from 2 guage to 6 guage wire with success. It depends on the charger, charger amps, distance from the batteries up front to the house bank, type of battery in the house bank. For instance, I use a 30 amp DC to DC Sterling 1230 charger and get up to 30 amps through 4 AWG wire, from my engine batteries to my 100AH Lithium house battery. If you wanted to send 60 amps, I'd probably use 2 AWG wire to take advantage of a quicker charge with your large alternator output. I'd also consider swapping out your 6v AGMs for a Lithium battery or two. The 10 AWG wire you are referring to will be a bottleneck for decent throughput unless you just want to trickle charge an AGM bank (the Blue Seas relay will not work with Lithium correctly). Another option for charging up your battery is increasing your solar array from 160W to 320W, making the 2nd panel (watts and brand) preferably the same as you are installing for the 1st panel. There will no doubt be plenty of opinions on this topic; that's just my take on what works well for me. My alternator is a standard 130 amp alternator that I don't want to stress out with a big DC to DC charger, which is why I have a 30 amp charger. But your situation is different, so you may want, say, a 60 amp DC to DC charger.for a quick charge. Either way, 10 AWG isn't going to be effective for a DC to DC charger. It will be fine, however for a trickle charge or even the wire that runs down from the roof, from your solar panel(s) to your solar controller.

Good luck on your new camper.

Rich
 
ri-f said:
What type of batteries, AGM?
What type of charger are they installing, Blue Seas relay?
How quick of a charge do you want?

If you want quick charge, from truck alternator- and you have a massive amount of alternator and battery power up front, according to what you are describing - you will want to install a DC to DC charger, and that will require significantly heavier wire. People have used everything from 2 guage to 6 guage wire with success. It depends on the charger, charger amps, distance from the batteries up front to the house bank, type of battery in the house bank. For instance, I use a 30 amp DC to DC Sterling 1230 charger and get up to 30 amps through 4 AWG wire, from my engine batteries to my 100AH Lithium house battery. If you wanted to send 60 amps, I'd probably use 2 AWG wire to take advantage of a quicker charge with your large alternator output. I'd also consider swapping out your 6v AGMs for a Lithium battery or two. The 10 AWG wire you are referring to will be a bottleneck for decent throughput unless you just want to trickle charge an AGM bank (the Blue Seas relay will not work with Lithium correctly). Another option for charging up your battery is increasing your solar array from 160W to 320W, making the 2nd panel (watts and brand) preferably the same as you are installing for the 1st panel. There will no doubt be plenty of opinions on this topic; that's just my take on what works well for me. My alternator is a standard 130 amp alternator that I don't want to stress out with a big DC to DC charger, which is why I have a 30 amp charger. But your situation is different, so you may want, say, a 60 amp DC to DC charger.for a quick charge. Either way, 10 AWG isn't going to be effective for a DC to DC charger. It will be fine, however for a trickle charge or even the wire that runs down from the roof, from your solar panel(s) to your solar controller.

Good luck on your new camper.

Rich
yes, I'm pretty sure the batteries are AGM. I don't know what type of charger they provide.
 
DarinH said:
yes, I'm pretty sure the batteries are AGM. I don't know what type of charger they provide.
well, if you're thinking about making upgrades, right from the get-go, to what comes stock, a good place to start is with a swap out from the AGMs to a Lithium (LiFePO4) battery, and probably increasing your solar output as I mentioned earlier. You will have a more efficient and effective energy system to help manage your electrical loads (like your large fridge, as well as the electrical demands of your furnace's fan). These can be big drains on your battery.and will require better charging routines. The DC to DC charger can be added later after you access how your system is handling the electrical loads. You'll probably want to supplement your solar with an alternate (DC to DC charger) if you don't typically plug in to shore power. That way, whenever you drive your truck (and especially if you drive during the night) you can turn on your DC to DC charger if your batteries are significantly down, for a relatively quick charge. But really, your solar will do most (if not all) of the work and that's what I would initially concentrate on. Or, you could use what you are getting (the AGMs and trickle charger and one solar panel, and see how it goes. It all depends on your typical useage patterns and climate where you intend to camp. It will become more clear what you need to do as you start to use your camper and begin seeing how the battery is handling your style of camping. To see what's going on with your battery, I would recommend a battery monitor like the Victron BMV-712 Smart. monitor. Also, the Victron 100/30 MPPT Solar Controller to manage the energy from your solar panels.

Rich
 
DarinH said:
Since my wife donated my Electricity For Dummies book to Goodwill awhile back (without my permission of course), I have to figure this out the old fashion way - bug my WTW Forum friends.

Christmas comes early for me this year when I pick up my new Grandby this Friday (3/26). Dealer says they use 10 ga. wire from truck to camper. Do I need, or should I request, thicker guage for quicker charging from truck?

Here's the camper elec options:
dual 6v batteries
160w roof solar
130 liter 2 way fridge (elec only)
furnace
2 roof fans
stock indoor led lights and all available exterior led lights

truck:
dual batteries and dual alternators. total 430 amps (I think)
My understanding (which is a few years old) is that the camper comes with a wiring kit with 10 AWG duplex wire and 30A thermal breakers, and (most) dealers will only install that, and often the install is quick and not necessarily well thought out. When I picked mine up (2016) I had already installed the 6awg wiring to the flatbed and asked the dealer not to do any wiring. If you are not into DIY and the dealer is willing to use larger wire, then certainly go for it. 6AWG should be sufficient.
 
rando said:
My understanding (which is a few years old) is that the camper comes with a wiring kit with 10 AWG duplex wire and 30A thermal breakers, and (most) dealers will only install that, and often the install is quick and not necessarily well thought out. When I picked mine up (2016) I had already installed the 6awg wiring to the flatbed and asked the dealer not to do any wiring. If you are not into DIY and the dealer is willing to use larger wire, then certainly go for it. 6AWG should be sufficient.
you are correct on that. I just found that out after I posted original question. Thanks for the feedback.
 
Thanks Rich. That's very helpful. It looks like I'll have to upgrade it on my own, after dealer does it their way. I can live with that.
ri-f said:
well, if you're thinking about making upgrades, right from the get-go, to what comes stock, a good place to start is with a swap out from the AGMs to a Lithium (LiFePO4) battery, and probably increasing your solar output as I mentioned earlier. You will have a more efficient and effective energy system to help manage your electrical loads (like your large fridge, as well as the electrical demands of your furnace's fan). These can be big drains on your battery.and will require better charging routines. The DC to DC charger can be added later after you access how your system is handling the electrical loads. You'll probably want to supplement your solar with an alternate (DC to DC charger) if you don't typically plug in to shore power. That way, whenever you drive your truck (and especially if you drive during the night) you can turn on your DC to DC charger if your batteries are significantly down, for a relatively quick charge. But really, your solar will do most (if not all) of the work and that's what I would initially concentrate on. Or, you could use what you are getting (the AGMs and trickle charger and one solar panel, and see how it goes. It all depends on your typical useage patterns and climate where you intend to camp. It will become more clear what you need to do as you start to use your camper and begin seeing how the battery is handling your style of camping. To see what's going on with your battery, I would recommend a battery monitor like the Victron BMV-712 Smart. monitor. Also, the Victron 100/30 MPPT Solar Controller to manage the energy from your solar panels.

Rich
 
DarinH said:
Thanks Rich. That's very helpful. It looks like I'll have to upgrade it on my own, after dealer does it their way. I can live with that.
Sure, that's a typical scenario. At least you have something to get you started. The rest will fall into place once you start to get a handle on your battery status with the battery monitor.

Best,
Rich
 
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