Any OBD 1 familar person here ?

DavidGraves

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Is anyone here familiar with reading a GM 1993 On Board Diagnostic plug in ?

Our long reliable K2500 Silverado has an intermittent miss and signals a code but I have not been able to read it.

Many thanks

Old truck....old owners.

David Graves
 
Most parts houses like pepboys, Kragen, autozone will read it for you free and even sell you the needed part. Walmart?
 
Thanks Patrick

We live rural and the local parts house only has an OBDII device.
 
OBD 1 systems do not require a scan tool to read codes. Use a paper clip and jump the terminals "a" and "b" together with the key on, engine off. The check engine light will begin to blink. Codes are two digits. So for example code 12 would be one blink, pause and then two blinks.

The data link will be under the dash on the driver side. Here's a link to a site with a visual of the plug, terminal locations and a listing of the codes.

GM OBD1

Read the codes and post them up. I'll see what I can do to help. I've been around a few of them...
 
Many thanks

I knew about the paperclip jumper.

When I did that the dash light did not flash.

Mind you, truck was not missing then...just the Service Engine Soon Light came on.

I have printed the Code list

On the road today for a delivery....

More later.

DG
 
Howdy Zoomad

So far I have only been able to read a code 14.

I get one blink followed by two blinks and two blinks. ( is this code 14 or code 22 ? ? )

If I understand correctly I can only read one code...need to correct it and then any other fault code will appear.

Code 14 is coolant sensor.

I hope you are patient ! :oops:

DG
 
Alright, it's odd you got the single blink first. If you took that and the next two blinks it would be code 12, which is the one to indicate there are no current codes. I don't think that is the case here so bear with me.

Code 14 if that was it, is not specifically saying the temp sensor is the issue. It's definition is that the coolant temp reached 275 degrees for 2 seconds. Even as notoriously vague as the stock gauges are I'm going to guess the engine didn't overheat on you.

Let's assume the first blink was just the light coming on for bulb check and then you got two blinks, pause and two blinks for code 22. That code is for the TPS (throttle position sensor) voltage being below 0.2v for 2 seconds with the engine running. Now a TPS code could be a condition that could cause a rough idle and or poor or no transmission shifting. The issue could come down to a wiring issue, TPS adjustment, TPS not reading correctly or a possible PCM. I wouldn't go buying a bunch of parts yet.

Since the problem is intermittent, I'd wipe the code out by disconnecting the vehicle battery for 15 seconds and go back to driving it. If the condition re-occurs and turns the light back on I'd recheck the codes and see if the same one came back or it was something else.
 
Thanks Sir

I will do a better job of reading the codes next time around.

Will it display more than one code if more than one fault exists?

David
 
DavidGraves said:
Thanks Sir

I will do a better job of reading the codes next time around.

Will it display more than one code if more than one fault exists?

David
No problem.

Yes, if there is more than one code set, it will display them all. It will blink the first code, long pause and then the next code. It will keep doing that until it hits the last code and it will start over with the first code and repeat.
 
OBD1 on a GM when jumped A-B will flash "12" one blink then 2 blinks. That is normal and tells you that it is diagnostic mode.

Any other codes will be displayed between the three sets of code 12 blinks.

32 would be an EGR circuit fault.

What is the 8th digit of you VIN so we know what engine you have?
 
The 8th digit is K ...

350 with auto trans in K2500

You folks from Colorado are Awesome !

DG
 
Hi David,

I have a 1993 K2500 5.7L Silverado, and have owned it since new, fixing it as things have gone. It's easy to work on, except for replacing the tank fuel pump - I haven't had to do it yet, but I'm dreading it. Mine has about 150,000 miles on it. It has been an extremely reliable truck with only a few things that have failed over the years beyond normal wearouts.

It's important to remember that OBD I was never intended to be a general diagnostic tool. It was intended to detect and annunciate problems with the emissions equipment. There are many part failures that won't trigger an OBD 1 code or CEL, but will affect the running of the engine. You need to use old-school troubleshooting skills rather than expecting OBD 1 to tell you what to replace. The ignition and injection systems are relatively simple.

Here are the things that I have had to do to fix misses, rough running, or stalling. The first few are obvious normal maintenance ones.
1) Distributor cap and rotor - probably replaced 4 times total
2) Plug wires - replaced at about the 20 year 120k point
3) Spark plugs either once or twice - can't remember for sure

Here's the tricky one that had me stumped for a long time until a local GM injection system expert clued me in:
The engine would die at stop lights at low idle when it was warmed up. (This started out the as an occasional miss at stop lights but then it began dying.) This turned out to be due to the reluctor magnet in the distributor (the donut shaped magnet below the eight pointed star shaped piece that rotates in the distributor and triggers the ignition module) aging under the high temperature condition to the point where its magnetic field was so week it would not trigger the ignition module at very low engine speed. The failure of the ignition also kills the fuel delivery, confusing my troubleshooting, which was why I ended up meeting the fuel injection expert. He patiently listened to my story of everything I had investigated. He then told me he would be happy to take my money and service my injection system, but said there was one thing I hadn't eliminated yet. He explained the above magnet deterioration and sure enough he was right. Very cool guy. So ...

4) Replaced the distributor at about 23 years 135k point. It's run like a top ever since. It was surprisingly easy, and an OEM part is reasonably priced. No check engine light with this issue ever, though. If you haven't had to do this yet, be expecting it.

The ONLY thing that has ever turned on the check engine light for me was a failed EGR valve.

These trucks used to be everywhere, but you don't see them much anymore where I live. I get a lot of compliments on mine because it is in really good shape. I finally, after 28 years, ordered a new GMC 3500HD that should arrive this month.
 
Hi Jon

Maybe we should buy your truck !!

I echo many of your comments about this vintage Silverado.

I mostly mothball this one with the Hawk...use it only for the longer trips we (used) to take to the SW or Baja etc.

Thanks for the insights....I need to start doing more of my own repairs as the very few local mechanics seem to consider this ninties vintage vehicle an antique.

One question I do have.....

There is a second 12-16 plug terminal fully visible at about the drivers' right knee under the dash....what is that connection for ?
The OBD 1 terminal is off to the left of steering column and not fully visible.

David Graves

Nehalem
 
Here is a picture of the right side of the steering column area on my truck. For some reason the attachment process turned it upside down as it appears here, but when you click on it, it is back as I attached it. The bottom of the ash tray is next to the black aftermarket brake controller. IMG_2062.jpg
 

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