Automatic Charge Relay - How to Improve your battery isolator

[ntsqd]

I would suggest buying one of the semi-smart battery maintainers for the truck battery(ies). Short term I don't see a problem with what you're doing, but long term I'm not sure what will happen. Seems safer to spend a little money to head that off. I see no reason why the second maintainer couldn't be on-board as well. Wire it into the camper with it's output on the truck side of the isolator, maybe? Then you need only plug in the camper to handle it all.

 

[Trailbob]

"Because the truck only gets used for trips and may not come out of the garage until March, I'm using the manual bypass switch to let the Iota charger (and IQ4) keep the truck batteries charged. Other than the 3 batteries seeking slightly different voltages, anybody see a problem with that?"

I've had the same question and, in fact, my truck is currently parked in my shop with the camper's Iota charger maintaining the camper and truck batteries. I reasoned that it is OK, because the Iota is basing its charge rate off the SOC of the camper's battery. The truck's battery always has some draw down from the truck's electronics, so there is always a small draw out of the camper's battery to the truck's battery. I notice on the Trimetric meter that there is a small charge (amps) going into the camper's battery, even when it is at 100%. I assume it is filling the drain from the truck's battery (and electronics).

All of the batteries are AGM, but they're not the same brand so the charging specs would not be exactly the same. But I think the float charges would be close enough to maintain all of them off the Iota. I'm not sure if my reasoning is correct, but this was my thought process.

 

[Vic Harder]

should be fine for a float charge. Voltage drop at such low current draw won't be an issue. The IQ4 isn't that smart anyway that it would have specific settings for different AGM batteries, so using the one setting for all your AGM's should be fine.

 

[Boonie]

It's been awhile since this thread was active but I hope my post is noticed.

Any problems with the ACR when the truck battery is flooded cell and the camper battery is an AGM?

 

[DrJ]

Hi Boonie,

I have not noticed any issues with the difference in battery types. This is now the stock setup for FWC.
It is a fairly straightforward mod for the older campers as well.
I still enjoy my setup as is.
I have not changed it since the original post.

 

[Vic Harder]

It's been awhile since this thread was active but I hope my post is noticed.

Any problems with the ACR when the truck battery is flooded cell and the camper battery is an AGM?

Good question. Nice that Dr J has evidence that it works. I think the ACR is looking at bigger extremes in voltage than the variance in "charged" voltage between the two. Both of my battery banks are AGM, but even there the technology differs (Optima batteries are spiral wound) and there are small difference in what they prefer. Still waiting to see how all this works in practice. More snow in the forecast tho...

 

[JeffW]

Hello,

I was happy to see this thread today as I am also having issues staying charged from the alternator with my 2015 Raven with a SurePower 1314.

Where are you guys finding the Blue Sea ML-ACR 7622 for about $74 without the external switch part? I'm only seeing it included for about $195-$213. Maybe FWC will sell me one.

I don't mind doing the manual override the hard way when/if necessary.

Thank you in advance. If I need to get the switch so be it. In which case I'll probably mount it in the truck and put the isolator/separator in the engine bay. My 2005 Chevy 1500 likes to lower the voltage which aggravates the problem for me.

Cheers,
Jeff

 

[Vic Harder]

http://shop.pkys.com/Blue-Sea-7622-ML-Series-500-Amp-12-Volt-ACR_p_1670.html

 

[Wallowa]

Hmmmm....going at it from a different direction..

In Shop:

Tundra on Battery Tender Plus

Hawk's two AGMs maintained with external power to IOTA IQ4.

On Road:

Tundra supported by alternator

Hawk batteries on Solar panel


Trying to keep it simple...kinda like me!

Phil

 

[TDFuego]

I have an 06 Eagle, looking to install the Blue Sea ACR. Dr.J's photos are a great help, thanks. But I want to install without any leads going to the "ignition" post, because i don't want to run another line back from the camper to my truck. I cannot tell from Dr.J's pics if he used the ignition contact. Dr.J, do you or anyone else out there know if I can install without the ignition feature? BTW, I'm getting 14.4 volts at the truck terminal with the engine running, hoping with a new Blue Sea unit my 12 volt fridge will not run down the house battery, which is what is going on now. Thanks!

 

[PaulT]

The function if the ignition/starting connection is to protect some sensitive (i.e. poorly designed) electronics, (that you may or may not have) from quick "spikes" or voltage transients while the engine is starting. Another good approach to absorbing the spikes is a large battery in the circuit that you do have. In fact, that is why you are sending the power from the truck to the camper.

If you are really concerned about possible spikes, why not mount the ACR under the hood of your truck between the existing circuit breaker going to the camper and the truck battery. You would not need the battery isolator in the camper. You were replacing that anyway with the ACR. The whole length of the ignition/starting connection wire to the ACR would be under your hood.

Paul

 

[TDFuego]

Thanks, Paul; That's a good option you've pointed out.

Since I've no spike protection now, and it's been several years with existing system and no problems, I assumed spike protection I don't need...... Main reason for placing ACR in camper is it's just an almost simple (yes, nothing really is) in-and-out switch from old isolator to new ACR, no new wires/fittings etc. Only some new mounting holes for the ACR. I've asked the original question wondering if the ACR operating processes are harmed in some way by NOT using the ignition connection. I'll go out now and see if under hood mounting is an easy task. Of course I won't get far as the temperature is already pushing 90!

Thanks again, Alon

 

[Stalking Light]

I didn't hook up the ignition part of my ACR and it works fine, fwiw.

 

[TrapperMike]

I didn't hook the ignition up either and it works great. Far superior charge to the house batteries when engine running. I like the manual override option too.

 

[Sharx]

Excellent post of a topic I myself am in the early stages of researching. Being in CA, I have found that the sun on my 160W solar panel is so good, that I have yet to have a problem with my power-hog Dometic 65L set fairly low taking away too many amps. But I have yet to see what happens in the winter and am being proactive for what might. I can use my inverter pretty often as well. While I have read plenty of good stories on Blue Sea products, one might also check out what a place called Hellroaring Technologies provides as far as battery isolators. Their stuff has very low loss of power and less output of heat. I am considering both companies for my own rig. But also thinking of adding more solar too (especially the new lightweight flex panels) and/or a small generator for overcast days.

But if your vehicle does a no-start like mine a few days ago.... a new trick item I scored at Costco ($60+T) is a portable battery jump starter made by Winplus that came way in handy the other day when I lett my headlights on by accident. 2 hours later, I got the dreaded clicking noise instead of an engine turning over. I was thinking there is no way the thing could start a V6 with what seemed like such a small sized battery cellphone "brick" charger. But I was blown away how easy it was to use and how well it started my Tacoma. The "brick" can even charge 2 USB (1 and 2 Amp) items with it's built in USB out ports and has a flashilight.

 

[TDFuego]

Thank you Stalking Light and Trapper Mike (could make a poem out of those handles). I got the SI-ACR installed as you have done with no problems. Unfortunately I yet have the same problem I started with which is the battery drain while driving and the Dometic frig on 12v operation. Battery (which is good) will drain down to low after 45 minutes.

 

[ckent323]

Boonie,

"Any problems with the ACR when the truck battery is flooded cell and the camper battery is an AGM?"


See this topic:

http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/16087-charging-vehicle-and-house-batteries-that-are-different-types-eg-fla-and-agm/


Craig

 

[Herve]

I read in this thread that the Blue Sea ACR is superior to the Sure Power 1314A.

My 2011 Hawk came with the IBS-DBR:
http://ibs-tech.ch/en/products/dual-battery-system/ibs-dbr-dualbatt-relay.html
I added a switch for the link so I could (in theory, not tested) trickle charge my truck battery if it was discharged and that way start my truck after some time.
I do not have a trimetric or similar monitoring tool but it seems that my house batteries are not charging much from the alternator (Toyota Tundra 2011 with factory tow package 150 amp alternator amd FWC installed wiring to the camper).

Question: would replacing the IBS-DBR with the Blue Sea ACR provide any benefits beside the manual control switch?

 

[ckent323]

Herve,

I looked at a couple of the IBS manuals (IBS-DBS and IBS-DBM). I do not see any "smart charging" multi-stage battery charging information for these units (maybe I overlooked it?) and I see no way to detect or set the charging voltage needed for FLA vs AGM vs Gel (voltage sensing).

Based on that it appears to me that these devices assume both batteries are the same type and perhaps assumes they are FLA.

If that is true then I would not want to use these with anything other than FLA batteries and even then I would worry about proper charging of the batteries, particularly if the camper (Caravan) battery bank is deep cycle.

The Blue Sea ML-ACR does voltage sensing and can be configured for FLA, AGM or Gel batteries but both batteries must be the same type.

It seems to me that it would be appropriate to contact the manufacturer and ask if the IBS-DBR provides multi-stage charging and if the stage voltages are automatically set when a particular battery type is sensed of if the user can select or program the battery type to facilitate the charging stage profile required by the different battery types.

It would also be useful to know if both batteries must be the same type (chemistry) or if they can be of different chemistry.

Craig

.

 

[Advmoto18]

It would also be useful to know if both batteries must be the same type (chemistry) or if they can be of different chemistry.

Craig

.

Craig...

Go to the Blue Sea Support page, type in the question..."does 7622 support multiple battery types".

This is the reply...

While the 7622 is not the P-12, I asked the question specific to the 7622. Awaiting an answer from Blue Sea. I will post here once I have a reply.

Yet, I have 2x flooded 12V crank batteries in my Super Duty and 2x Optima AGMs in the camper and no issues using the 7622 for about a year or so.