Backing plates pulling through truck bed

[CamperSam]

Adding for future reference...

The F150 has an Alu bed which is thin. Mule Expedition outfitters in Issaquah make extra sturdy brackets which bolt to the truck frame to take the load from the camper. They fitted them to my F150 during the camper install

 

[kmcintyre]

I made some larger 4"x4" backing plates for the top and bottom of all mounting locations on my bed and camper. Didn't take terribly wrong to make them. Install was easy except for the drivers side (one was in the cabinet, one under some carpet). This was on an older Eagle. I also upgraded my turnbuckles, etc. No issues and have many years on them with long trips to Mexico, Baja, Canada, etc.

 

[camper rich]

I have been working through this same problem with my Grandby mounted in my '08 Dodge 2500 SB. Before the Grandby I had a 1998 FWC Ranger II installed on a 3-1/2" riser. I used the factory installed loops for tying down the front end of the camper and some 1/2" galvanized eyebolts for the back tie downs which went through a bed crossmember. No problems with that system whatsoever after about 8 trips to Baja including lots of washboard road and unmarked topes (you baja salts will know about the unmarked topes (that would be speedbumps)).

In December 2016 we upgraded to the Grandby SC and had it installed by FWC here in Salt Lake City. Their installer insisted they put in new tie downs with the 3 x 5 backing plates positioned more in the corners of the bed. Now after 4 trips to Baja I have discovered the front tiedowns have lifted the sheetmetal of the bed so that it is tearing where it is spotwelded to the crossmember underneath. The back tiedowns have lifted up the sheetmetal and pulled the spotwelds apart near the tailgate.

I decided to pound all the sheetmetal back in place and take it in to be re-welded, hoping that would do the job, but what was nagging me was the idea that no matter what I did for a reenforcing plate, it would still be no stronger that the bed sheetmetal, and that I would just end up with the same problem. I took it in to my local welder (who makes a good living fixing rv's, hitches, and doing little projects for me). He took a look at it and agreed with me that the sheetmetal just isn't strong enough to hold that stress even with the backing plates and that to fix it properly the tiedowns need to be tied to the frame. He felt my original rear tiedowns were good since they went through that rear crossmember (the ones FWC didn't want to use). My welder fixed the front tiedowns by welding a couple of 10" "L" brackets made of 1/2" x 2" steel to my frame which extend out to the eyebolt position under the bed and then ran the eyebolts through them. Now I feel like the problem is fixed.

I think this solution would also work for aluminum beds. Toyota composit beds already have a frame tie-in with their bolt in mounting bar.

 

[muttmaster]

Lots of good bandaid solutions here, but just go with Torklift. Pricy but you won’t regret it.

 

[Jack]

muttmaster is right on - worth every penny.

When the turnbuckles loosen, even a bit, the force exerted on the bed and the camper is amplified on rough roads. That's how slide-hammers work. Our 2005 Eagle had washers for the camper angles - I broke two of them, even though I was religious about checking the turnbuckles. I then replaced all four with 1/4" aluminum plates (old style camper mount) and shortly thereafter bought the Torklift Handles, which were awkward to fit with various quick-links. I would get the Fast-guns now.

 

[Vic Harder]

Love my Fast-guns. Washboard roads are more likely to shake my teeth loose, and get the screws on my camper to fall out than to loosen and damage the bed...

 

[Jon R]

I've been considering using Tork Lift external tie downs for the Grandby I have on order that will go on a 3500HD, but was leaning against them because I'd prefer not to have protruding hardware I have to watch out for while driving and that we might get hurt on while moving around the truck (I have a young grandchild, and have myself had some serious collisions between shins and trailer hitches). Do those of you that have Torklifts for your FWC find either of those things to be an issue?

I do like the idea of having attachments that I don't have to worry about failing or damaging the truck. Another advantage of the Torklifts I imagine is the space in front of the wheel wells can be used for other storage, or water or fuel tanks.

 

[Vic Harder]

The Fastguns go in the usual turnbuckle spots. Best of both worlds!

 

[smlobx]

Another Tork lift and Fast gun user here.

I was initially concerned about how much they may protrude but after getting them I’m very happy in now little they actually protrude and have had no issues off-road with them.

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

I've been considering using Tork Lift external tie downs for the Grandby I have on order that will go on a 3500HD, but was leaning against them because I'd prefer not to have protruding hardware I have to watch out for while driving and that we might get hurt on while moving around the truck (I have a young grandchild, and have myself had some serious collisions between shins and trailer hitches). Do those of you that have Torklifts for your FWC find either of those things to be an issue?

I do like the idea of having attachments that I don't have to worry about failing or damaging the truck. Another advantage of the Torklifts I imagine is the space in front of the wheel wells can be used for other storage, or water or fuel tanks.

Jon, I’ve used TorkLift tie downs for 21 years now, but on hardside campers. Because the campers extend over the truck sides (as do pop up campers) I’ve never barked my shins on the tie downs. With the camper off, I pull the pins and remove the tie downs from the frame mounts.

I have never caught the tie downs in rough terrain, but have damaged a camper because the terrain was too extreme for a large hardside.

 

[Jon R]

I think I may be sold on Tork Lifts. Thanks everyone.

 

[camper rich]

What do Tork Lifts do to make up for the lack of strenght in the sheetmetal, especially once the sheetmetal has been pulled up? No matter what turnbuckles you use, once they have reached their limit the weakest thing has to give, and that will be the sheetmetal unless your tiedowns are somehow tied into the frame.

 

[Adventurebound]

Hey guys OP here. I wound up selling that truck and moved on to a new one. Hopefully I don't have this issue in my new Ram. I'm never one to blink an eye at quality kit, but just curious why the tork lift cost so much? Is thier that much to them to justify the price?

 

[Jon R]

"What do Tork Lifts do to make up for the lack of strenght in the sheetmetal, especially once the sheetmetal has been pulled up? No matter what turnbuckles you use, once they have reached their limit the weakest thing has to give, and that will be the sheetmetal unless your tiedowns are somehow tied into the frame."



I'm talking about the external frame-mounted Tork Lift anchors (see below) to attach the camper using the camper's jacking plates, not using the Tork Lift spring loaded turnbuckles on bed-mounted bolts (which was what Vic described).

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

"What do Tork Lifts do to make up for the lack of strenght in the sheetmetal, especially once the sheetmetal has been pulled up? No matter what turnbuckles you use, once they have reached their limit the weakest thing has to give, and that will be the sheetmetal unless your tiedowns are somehow tied into the frame."

I'm talking about the external frame-mounted Tork Lift anchors (see below) to attach the camper using the camper's jacking plates, not using the Tork Lift spring loaded turnbuckles on bed-mounted bolts (which was what Vic described).

Jon, thanks for posting the photos. These are what I’ve used for nearly 21 years. Recently (2016) I changed from the chain and turnbuckle tie downs to the Fast Guns. It’s the best combination I’ve used.

I’m thinking of having ATC build a shortened Bobcat shell for my 2019 Ranger, and will use TorkLifts on the back if I do. Presently, they don’t make mounts for the front, so I will probably fabricate a similar style.

 

[goinoregon]

Love my Fast-guns. Washboard roads are more likely to shake my teeth loose, and get the screws on my camper to fall out than to loosen and damage the bed...

so, these just replaced the turnbuckle?

 

[Vic Harder]

so, these just replaced the turnbuckle?

yes. Needed a few quicklinks or carribiners, plus a bunch of 1/2" forged eyebolts. I bought 6" ones and cut them down to the size I needed. Mark the finished Fastguns so you know which corner they came from, and when you dismount/mount the camper again, they go in those spots again. Super easy. The advantage of these is that they never loosen, don't need adjusting and thus the camper never gets loose enough to cause damage. At least not so far.

 

[Jon R]

Question for those of you using the Tork Lift external mounts I pictured above:

If I use turnbuckles between those mounts and the jacking plates of a FWC (Grandby in my case), the turnbuckles will be vertical. That's great for applying hold-down force, but I'm wondering if the camper will shift around somewhat in the bed. I plan to use a 1/4 inch thick rubber bed pad and the bed will have GM's version of a Linex type coating. Will the friction hold it in place with the vertical spring loaded turnbuckles? FWC makes a big deal about the bed bolts located to apply opposing lateral forces in addition to hold-down forces.

 

[camper rich]

I just looked at the Tork Lift external mounts on e-trailer. To me, they look like something to catch on a rock on the roads I drive. They hang low and stick out too far for me. The attraction of an FWC is a go-anywhere rig so I prefer their in-the-bed tiedowns. I don't drive with my camper jacks on the camper either.

 

[Jon R]

This person generously rolled their truck over so we could see the degree to which the Tork Lift Mounts hang under and out from the truck.