Bags Or Springs

For correct pressure, put enough air into the bags to raise the rear to about level. If you measure the height of the fender wells when the camper is not on, it is easier, but using a level on the floor of the camper and airing up until it is level works. You may have to level side to side as well as front to back. I would guess you will find 50# - 60# a good start point.

As for routing the tubes, I go with Eldough. Running the tubes back along the outside of the frame keeps the tubes away from heat. I also try to keep the tubes high on the frame. Wire ties keep them in place. There are a couple of holes in the bottom of the bumper that accept the fill points. If you drag the bumper, you could scrape them off, but otherwise they should be safe.
 
Eldough,

I wouldn't leave the fillers under the bumper, eventually you will destroy one or both. I was able to drill through the bumper just to each side of the license plate to mount mine and it worked out great. As to bag pressure I ran about 30 psi on the driver's side and 25 psi on the passenger for daily driving. I'd add about 10 psi each side for rougher roads, but keep in mind that I had addition leafs and heavier shocks. It really is trial and error as to what works best for each truck/camper combo.
 
For those of you who are using Ride-Rite air bags, I have a tale to tell...

I have an Eagle on my 2002 Tacoma 4x4 with ride-rite airbags. A few weeks ago I replaced the front brake pads. While I was at it I decided to check the rear brake shoes. I jacked up the rear axle and took both tires off. While I was working on the shoes/drums I noticed something disturbing; the airbag on the right side didn't look right. The top mount was crooked; it was clearly different than when I mounted the airbags only 6 months earlier.

before PICT0006a.jpg

As I looked closer at the problem my reaction went from one of curiosity to one of great concern. Not only was the airbag mounting bracket bent, but it had also managed to bend the frame as well! The whole mounting area was starting to twist and bend. Further inspection revealed that both side had similar problems, although the right side was worse than the left.

before PICT0032b.jpg before PICT0003c.jpg

I decided to remove the camper(which I normally leave on) and to fix the problem before going on any more trips. Luckily, my friend Milt builds cars from scratch and is an expert on frames and welding. Looking at the problem together we decided that there were two basic issues:

1) The frame lacked adequate blocking where the airbag brackets were mounted. Without this blocking the frame simply could not handle the load without bending. (The frame steel is surprisingly thin, all areas needing strength need to be reinforced, this can be seen at other areas of the frame.)

2) The design of the brackets themselves have some issues. They only have one true attachment point (two bolts, but one small area), and that is on the side. The brackets provide no lateral attachment, and they span a relatively long distance given the steel and forces involved.

We decided that the solution was to reinforce the frame using blocking and then to weld the brackets in-place. The welding needed to include more attachment points so as to eliminate lateral creep and to reinforce the relatively long span. Milt cut the blocking and reinforcing for the brackets from steel stock and then welded everything in-place.

after PICT0005a.jpg after PICT0003b.jpg

I'm certainly hoping that this does the trick and that I have no further problems with these mounts or the frame. Other than this mounting problem I've been very happy with the airbags; they do a great job leveling the load and restoring handling to the truck.

Good luck, and keep wandering the west...

-Wes
 
Wow, I don't think we've seen that type of frame damage on a Tacoma before. Great fix you guys did. One question though, are the air bags the only suspension mod you have? If so I think an extra leaf or supersprings would likely take up the extra weight that the bags are now transferring to the frame. Either way I'm going to inspect my frame here fairly soon. Thanks for the heads up.
 
Yes, the air bags are the only additional suspension that I have on the truck. An extra leaf on the springs would not be a bad idea; maybe some day. Hopefully no one else on the forum will have this same problem. But I do think it is a good idea for anyone with Ride-Rite air bags to inspect their truck, as you mention. It certainly will be interesting to hear if mine is an isolated incident or not.

I don't think I explained this in my original post, but the frame steel is surprisingly thin in this area; we were able to unbend the frame by slipping an adjustable wrench over the metal (opened just the thickness of the steel) and then unbending it by hand, without the need of any additional tools of any kind. It was really quite sobering.

-Wes
 
Yes, the air bags are the only additional suspension that I have on the truck. An extra leaf on the springs would not be a bad idea; maybe some day. Hopefully no one else on the forum will have this same problem. But I do think it is a good idea for anyone with Ride-Rite air bags to inspect their truck, as you mention. It certainly will be interesting to hear if mine is an isolated incident or not.

I don't think I explained this in my original post, but the frame steel is surprisingly thin in this area; we were able to unbend the frame by slipping an adjustable wrench over the metal (opened just the thickness of the steel) and then unbending it by hand, without the need of any additional tools of any kind. It was really quite sobering.

-Wes


I believe that's where the frame broke on Les' old Taco with air bags.
 
Weak chassis. My point exactly from a previous post I made elsewhere about mileage. If you take a small truck with a light duty frame and then you overload it with a camper/gear and try to compensate with airbags and add a leafs, you are simply asking for trouble. The only place the frame is designed to support great force is exactly where the leaf springs mount. The point at which you fellows are bracketing the top end of the air bags is where the shocks mount. The shocks exert little force, so, the frame is not very robust at this location. Yet when you add air to your bags and your truck rises, you are applying almost all the weight lifting force to this weak area. It is a wonder these little trucks don't break in two!

Now, think about the little axle bearings, the skinny axle shafts, the little 8" and smaller diffs, the small 9" clutch discs, and the greatest life threat: those little brakes. Please, as I became a convert. Consider a full 3/4 ton truck next time. The gas mileage is no worse, the diesel mileage is better yet and since you won't roll it over and you may be able to stop in an emergency situation,it might save your life and your loved ones if you have kids. I really don't mean this to be an insult to little trucks, just my discoveries in all my years of 4 wheeling both light duty and heavy duty trucks.
 

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Those pictures of even F150's with campers hanging out over the backs really worry me. And E tires please! Count me as a convert. A while back I was shopping for a new F150 and took a test ride in a 250 and was thinking that it was such overkill but I was quite wrong as now I love my older F250. Plus it is maybe 6" wider inside, carrying three dogs is much better. And I used to say I didn't want a diesel, more of my ignorance :LOL: . I'm lucky as my 250 is pretty much dedicated to camping trips as it isn't the best parking lot vehicle but it doesn't lack grunt.
 
I have an Eagle on my 2002 Tacoma 4x4 with ride-rite airbags. A few weeks ago I replaced the front brake pads. While I was at it I decided to check the rear brake shoes. I jacked up the rear axle and took both tires off. While I was working on the shoes/drums I noticed something disturbing; the airbag on the right side didn't look right. The top mount was crooked; it was clearly different than when I mounted the airbags only 6 months earlier.


As I looked closer at the problem my reaction went from one of curiosity to one of great concern. Not only was the airbag mounting bracket bent, but it had also managed to bend the frame as well! The whole mounting area was starting to twist and bend. Further inspection revealed that both side had similar problems, although the right side was worse than the left.

-Wes



Wes, the model year of your Tacoma was recently included in an announcement from Toyota, that certain Tacoma frames may not have sufficient corrosion protection. Toyota is buying back or replacing many Tacomas. You may want to have yours checked before too much more effort in straightening your frame...


Source - Edmunds Town Hall Talk


Owners of 2001 – 2004 Tacomas have begun to receive letters informing them of a Customer Support Program for frame perforation caused by rust. This warranty extension will be offered for a period of 15 years, five times the original coverage, with no mileage limitation from the vehicle's in-service date, for this specific condition; some conditions apply and these are explained in the Owner Letters.

I can assure you we have gone to great lengths to fortify the integrity of this extraordinary program. Here are some details of the program and what we have done to prepare for this event.

Based on our experience with the 1995 – 2000 Tacoma, we were able to determine that greater than 97% of the perforated frames came from twenty specific Mid-Western and North-Eastern states where road salt use is prevalent.

Owners in the twenty states will have until October 31, 2010 to visit their local dealer for an inspection and application of a corrosion-resistant treatment process in order for the extended warranty to be applied to their vehicle. Toyota is currently preparing the dealerships in these specific twenty states to apply the corrosion-resistant treatment. Customers will receive a letter from us when dealer preparations are complete. Further details and limitations will be provided in the owner letter. Owners in the other thirty states do not need to take action for the extended warranty to be applied.

We encourage owners to wait until they receive their letters to ensure the dealer has ample time to spend with their vehicle.

If the frame is confirmed by the dealer to be perforated, it will be repaired. Obviously, this new program is different compared to the earlier model Tacoma and here’s why.

When we announced the 1995 – 2000 Tacoma program, frame repair was not an option for us or our customers. At the time, we no longer manufactured frames for many variations of these vehicles. In the case of 2001 – 2004 Tacoma, replacement frames are still in production.

To develop this new program, engineers here in Los Angeles, working with Toyota engineers from Japan, created a more comprehensive and less intrusive disassembly and reassembly process with built-in quality. In doing so, they identified all of the major and ancillary parts needed to complete the repair.

Along with a frame, dealers will receive kits that include all the necessary nuts, bolts, washers, clips, mounts, etc. Additionally, they will replace specific major components like leaf springs and lower control arms as necessary. They won’t replace mufflers, brakes and other wear items as part of the program. However, if the owner wants these parts replaced, we provide the opportunity to take advantage of labor savings.

We have allocated a generous amount time for dealers to complete the work and to address the unique challenges specific to each vehicle.

We are confident with the unprecedented steps taken with both programs to minimize the inconvenience of our customers and to protect the value of their vehicles. It is our intention to deliver on the “total ownership experience” and to maintain loyal Toyota customers.

We sincerely appreciate the feedback we receive from sites such as Edmunds.com. If you have any concerns with your Tacoma or other Toyota vehicle, please call our toll-free help number at 1-800-331-4331. Thank you.

Brian R. Lyons
Safety and Quality Communications
Toyota Motor Sales USA



.
 
Im glad I found this post after searching the internet for this problem. I am having the same problem on my 04 tacoma with the top brackets and the frame bending. Mine is bent so bad that I need to repair this problem before I can put my camper back on, the angle of the top air bag plate is just too severe now and the bag is cocked sideways.
Im thinking of contacting firestone and seeing if they will send me a new pair of top brackets or orderins some new ones to start with after reinforcing the frame. Thanks for the info.
 
I know this is an old post, but someone may be able to use this info.
I carried a lot of weight on my old 2002 Toyota Tacoma DC. One mod was frame reinforcement above the rear axles. DeMello in Orange County has been making plates that are welded to the frame for years. Attaching pix of the plate on my old Tacoma.
BXDeMello.JPGIMG_1463x.jpg
 
don't mess around with the bags...save yourself the trouble and just get the springs. National or Deaver or others can hook you up just fine. Nothing to break or inflate. I guess I should admit I still do have my bags but I only use them for load leveling and ride perfection but they are completely unnecessary to carry the load.

Cort
 
When I read a thread like this one, I am soooooooooo glad I have a 3/4 ton diesel. My suspension is completely stock, my truck doesn't even feel the camper plus I get 19 to 21 mpg. Top that off with I get near 700 miles on a tank and I have tons of space. At some point you guys should do the math and consider stepping up.

Gene
 
don't mess around with the bags...save yourself the trouble and just get the springs. National or Deaver or others can hook you up just fine. Nothing to break or inflate. I guess I should admit I still do have my bags but I only use them for load leveling and ride perfection but they are completely unnecessary to carry the load.

Cort


On the other hand get the bags :D I have bags on my F150 where they help leveling and stop sag if I am carrying a lot. I also have them on the F250 where as Cort said they are again good for leveling but aren't needed for the load. I run stock rear springs and everything is fine with a loaded Grandby and a few hundred #'s of hitch weight. Never had a problem, they are just a sturdy bag and a line with a schraeder valve. Being able to inflate, or having to inflate, is a plus to me. If you never vary your weight it may not matter.
 
For those of you who are using Ride-Rite air bags, I have a tale to tell...

I have an Eagle on my 2002 Tacoma 4x4 with ride-rite airbags. A few weeks ago I replaced the front brake pads. While I was at it I decided to check the rear brake shoes. I jacked up the rear axle and took both tires off. While I was working on the shoes/drums I noticed something disturbing; the airbag on the right side didn't look right. The top mount was crooked; it was clearly different than when I mounted the airbags only 6 months earlier.

View attachment 6408

As I looked closer at the problem my reaction went from one of curiosity to one of great concern. Not only was the airbag mounting bracket bent, but it had also managed to bend the frame as well! The whole mounting area was starting to twist and bend. Further inspection revealed that both side had similar problems, although the right side was worse than the left.

View attachment 6404 View attachment 6407

I decided to remove the camper(which I normally leave on) and to fix the problem before going on any more trips. Luckily, my friend Milt builds cars from scratch and is an expert on frames and welding. Looking at the problem together we decided that there were two basic issues:

1) The frame lacked adequate blocking where the airbag brackets were mounted. Without this blocking the frame simply could not handle the load without bending. (The frame steel is surprisingly thin, all areas needing strength need to be reinforced, this can be seen at other areas of the frame.)

2) The design of the brackets themselves have some issues. They only have one true attachment point (two bolts, but one small area), and that is on the side. The brackets provide no lateral attachment, and they span a relatively long distance given the steel and forces involved.

We decided that the solution was to reinforce the frame using blocking and then to weld the brackets in-place. The welding needed to include more attachment points so as to eliminate lateral creep and to reinforce the relatively long span. Milt cut the blocking and reinforcing for the brackets from steel stock and then welded everything in-place.

View attachment 6406 View attachment 6405

I'm certainly hoping that this does the trick and that I have no further problems with these mounts or the frame. Other than this mounting problem I've been very happy with the airbags; they do a great job leveling the load and restoring handling to the truck.

Good luck, and keep wandering the west...

-Wes



I had a welder friend of mine do the exact same thing to my Tacoma. At least I know this part of the truck will never bend again. He also added a few gussets at other vunerable areas of the frame.
 
At some point you guys should do the math and consider stepping up.


I have. And aside from the $50,000 pickup truck, it makes a lot of sense.
 
I have. And aside from the $50,000 pickup truck, it makes a lot of sense.

It was way back in 2006, but my Dodge 2500, manual trans, 4x4, Cummins Diesel was only $32,000 out the door (Jay got his with automatic at a little less!). I got all the good stuff meaning crank windows, rubber floor you can hose out, steel wheels that you can actually change a tire on in the wilds. If you get the basic "work truck" you save tons of money.

I have done zero mods to the truck. It doesn't drop 1/2 inch with the camper and you can even feel it is there. I just came back from an 1800 mile trip to Hart Mountain and Sheldon NWR getting 18 to 19 mpg.
 
I admit, I'm envious of the extra power and elbow room. It's always in the back of my mind.

Sounds like a great trip.
 

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