Baja - Pacific or Sea of Cortez

[Espresso]

I planned to go to Baja over Christmas break last year but a little health issue forced me to cancel. I'm thinking of trying again this year but I'm not sure if I should skip the Pacific side and spend my time on the Sea of Cortez. I've heard the Pacific side can be cool to cold, but I'm not sure what to expect weather-wise on the Eastern side of Baja. 60's? 70's? 80's? Are there any Baja veterans that can chime in? I doubt I'd go further south than Bahia de los Angeles.

Also, I'm thinking of bringing my Honda Rubicon ATV to get around while the truck and camper are parked in a campground. Do people cruise into town on an ATV or is this asking for trouble?

Thanks!

 

[Ted]

It has been 15 years since I have done Baja. But as I recall, the Pacific side down there is much like California. Fog and wind are common, maybe 55 to 60 during the day, 45 at night. Sea of Cortez side should be about 10 degrees warmer, so 65 to 70, without the fog.

 

[Espresso]

I just saw the "Where to go for Christmas? Baja or SW tour?" post. I think I'll focus on the Sea of Cortez side.

 

[Waltzing Matilda]

Pacific is definitely colder. Cortez is warmer, and now hurricane season over so things are calmer.

Your temp estimates are about right. Water temp influences air and ocean is much colder than Cortez. Nice in summer, not so much in winter.

As for ATVs they are commonly used in many areas, along with horses and mules. You'll fit right in!

Recommend this site for general Baja travel info and planning help: http://forums.bajanomad.com/index.php

Have fun!

 

[craig333]

How feasible is it do both if you had say two weeks to spend in baja?

 

[Waltzing Matilda]

You can easily drive from sea of Cortez to Pacific side. The peninsula is not that wide. In some places it will require driving on rough dirt roads. And other areas it's all pavement. You can go from Bahia de Los Angeles to the Pacific in a few hours.


FYI, if you need a good map book Just saw this here: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=70820

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Holiday special price will be $30 US plus shipping available on our website http//:www.bajabooksandmaps.com until January 1st when the price will be $35 plus shipping. The Almanac will also be available at selected stores in Baja Sur and at Baja Books and Maps in San Jose del Cabo. Wholesale inquiries are welcome."

In 2 weeks you can cover a lot of territory. It all depends on how you like to travel and camp. It is worth exploring both coastlines.

Avoid driving at night. Baja is open range so horses cows and other animals are often on the road after dark. There are no lights on the highways between towns. In some places it's very steep with hairpin turns.

The main highway is narrow and not designed for high-speed travel. There is construction going on in many places to repair potholes and improve the road. There are also several inspection checkpoints for guns and drugs. These are staffed by military. They don't take long but do slow traffic.

Bottom line: Don't be in a hurry. Be prepared for delays. Watch out for animals and big trucks on the narrow road.

Hope that helps.

 

[Ted]

Craig, we did several trips into Baja in the 90's. The longest one was two weeks and in that time we were able to go all the way to Cabo and back. Don't forget for us it is a day's travel each way just to the border. Check out the Baja Nomads forum as Waltzing Matilda mentioned. It has trip reports, planning threads, road conditions, and can answer all of your questions.

 

[Espresso]

Many people visit Mexico without any problems. But I have to wonder, is it too screwed up to take the chance? I want to go to Baja with the truck, camper and towing a quad. When I read stories such as this one, I have to take pause and wonder what happens if I, or a government official (Mexican or American) make one mistake. Do I end up leaving the quad or the camper on the side of the road in order to get back across the border?

I've had very good experiences with the people when I've been in Mexico. But it's a messed up government; it has been for as long as I can remember and it doesn't seem to be getting better.

http://www.latitude38.com/lectronic/lectronicday.lasso?date=2013-12-20#.UrYadvRDuSo

 

[Waltzing Matilda]

I've lived/travelled/sailed in Baja MX and northern coastal waters for decades, starting when my family would cross the border for dentistry and to visit family back in the 60s.

Regarding: leaving the car/quad on side of road- this is more possible due to mechanical breakdown/accident than legal problems, tho if you have an accident without good insurance it could get into a legal dispute.

Make sure you have everything in good working order, and check your auto insurance plan to make sure it includes a tow option to get your equipment back home. Also make sure you have the required amount for liability to cover accidental damage/injury. The amounts have changed, so consult with Discover Baja or another experienced insurance provider.

I've been in this breakdown situation, and we relied on friends in Baja to get our car to town when the transmission failed. Next time I'll pay for towing to US. Once we get to border, my AutoClub will take over. (I pay for extended towing with them, in case my truck with camper shell fails far from home/repair services)

The paperwork to bring in a boat legally can be ridiculous- they are less efficient than US, and we know how inefficient it can be here. I sold my interest in a 34' sailboat to a friend who lives/works and has residency in MX. I'll check with him when I visit later this winter, since he's in Ensenada harbor which has likely been hit by this latest "purge".

That said: Baja is a beautiful place to travel, explore and meet the people who live/work/play here. Don't let a few bad reports get in the way of discovering the natural beauty and friendly people who live in and love the peninsula. The benefits far outweigh the risks.

FWIW, The locals get frustrated with government too, because of delays in paving roads (pace has improved in recent years), battles over property rights (property ownership is still very complicated in MX). lack of electricity in remote areas (also improving in last 10 years) and the lack of understanding politicians in Mexico City, 2000 miles away, have regarding Baja in general.

However, this has changed in recent years. I lived in Baja in the 90s, just as NAFTA was passed. Lots of changes and improvements over the last 20+ years.

To prepare for a safe, drama-free trip: Get your FMM (travel visa), exchange your dollars for pesos (CostCo in Chula Vista will do this, if you're a member) don't carry drugs/guns (the checkpoints will inspect your vehicle, sometimes w/dogs, and don't act differently than you do at home (I've seen too many drunk/obnxious tourists make a bad impression). Do all this and you are much more likely to create an unforgettable trip for all the good memories you'll be making.

The attached image is of my favorite winter spot: San Ignacio lagoon, petting a baby whale.

Travel safe, smart and have fun!

 

[Espresso]

Thanks Waltz. I've been to Mexico a few times, and aside from a drive to Ensenada in the late 70's, I've flown. I have a mental barrier to overcome, in part because the time I drove we were shaken down by just about every cop that saw us. (Once there was too much dust on our brake lights) We also sat on the side of the road while the Federales took everything out of our VW van looking for drugs. They threw everything on the road and when they didn't find anything, they told us to pack up the van and leave before they hauled us into the station for littering. They were pissed because we wouldn't pay the "Gringo Tax" to get them to stop the search.

I'm sure the situation has improved over the last 35 years, but the guilty until proven innocent thing scares the crap out of me. Although the whales during Easter break may be just what it takes to help me get past my concerns.

 

[Waltzing Matilda]

I can relate, tho It's been many years since I drove my 71 Westphalia into Baja. I agree the inspections were a bit more thorough. They also seemed to ask more questions at the border when I came across in the old pop top.

Since then I've driven 4WD station wagons and pick up trucks with camper shells on the back. The trucks seem to fit in better and earn more respect from locals and border patrol. Having a big dog with me also made the inspections go a little faster. However, these days I travel with a cute 20 pounder. She's not very intimidating.



The one time I was stopped and asked for a bribe was on the highway, while driving north in my truck. I immediately forgot most of my Spanish and made it very difficult for the officer involved. He eventually gave up in frustration, but it does leave a lasting impression.

Sounds like you no longer drive the van so you may avoid those problems this time.

Have you considered traveling in a caravan with others? Post a notice on Baja Nomad and look for other travelers. http://forums.bajanomad.com/today.php

Or travel with an older RV crowd with escorts: http://www.vagabundos.com/baja_direct.htm

Both websites also give some advice regarding driving through Baja and avoiding problems.

There can be safety in numbers. When do you plan to head south?

 

[Espresso]

Thanks for the advice and the links. Going with experienced travelers would definitely help alleviate my concerns.

I had hoped to go over the Christmas break, but the family schedule didn't work out. Something about Christmas being on a Wednesday didn't work in my favor. I'm thinking of going over Easter break, but I'm not sure if my work schedule will accommodate my play schedule.

 

[Waltzing Matilda]

Spring is nicer. Warmer weather, whales still around on pacific side.

Maybe you can find a caravan to join for that time?

Hope it works for you to travel south.