Batteries inside or outside the camper

[natjwest]

I currently have one house battery under the front settee in my FWC, but I am planning to upgrade to two matched batteries once this one dies, which isn't too far into the future.

I'm also planning an extensive interior remodel (dinnette, cabinet work, etc) and am wondering if I would be better served by having the camper batteries in the truck bed, forward of the wheel wells instead of inside the camper. Does anyone have usage recommendations for batteries outside the truck bed?

I keep the camper off the truck when not in use, and don't use turnbuckles/eyebolts, so there is plenty of room for two batteries on the passenger side, which is where I would put them to balance the camper weight (and driver weight).

Any opinions on mounting the batteries to the outside of the camper versus attaching to the truck bed?

 

[Barko1]

Would it entail any extra complexity in removing the camper if they are mounted outside in the bed? Use the bed for other purposes, might not want to leave 2 batteries sitting in there. I have two mounted under the front cross bed in my Grandby, weight is up front. I built a separate area for them that is sealed and vented.

 

[natjwest]

Would it entail any extra complexity in removing the camper if they are mounted outside in the bed? Use the bed for other purposes, might not want to leave 2 batteries sitting in there. I have two mounted under the front cross bed in my Grandby, weight is up front. I built a separate area for them that is sealed and vented.

I don't think it would entail extra complexity because they wouldn't be "mounted" permanently, just when using the camper. It'll probably be used six to ten times per year so it won't be a constant burden to load and unload them.

What else could I put in those forward areas? The only other thing I could think about would be a water bladder.

 

[Desert Rancher]

I have a full size battery mounted in the space between the camper wall and the truck bed on the right side. I had to enlarge the opening to fit the battery and make a new cover. There is adequate ventilation from the outside.

I suppose you could add another on the opposite side or in the rear well. It's pretty much wasted space except for storage use.

Notice, I didn't use battery terminals to attach the wires - just ring lugs and self drilling screws.

 

[brett13]

I have a full size battery mounted in the space between the camper wall and the truck bed on the right side. I had to enlarge the opening to fit the battery and make a new cover. There is adequate ventilation from the outside.

I suppose you could add another on the opposite side or in the rear well. It's pretty much wasted space except for storage use.

Notice, I didn't use battery terminals to attach the wires - just ring lugs and self drilling screws.

Either Ben or Marty told me that putting a hole in that board- the "flat" one that makes up the "step" between the bench and the wall, was a no-no structurally. Glad to see yours hasn't caused any problems.

Do you leave the camper mounted permanently or do you disconnect and reconnect the battery every time? Or do you simply pull the connected battery into the compartment? Does it slide around and pull on the wires or is the battery anchored somehow?

 

[Desert Rancher]

Either Ben or Marty told me that putting a hole in that board- the "flat" one that makes up the "step" between the bench and the wall, was a no-no structurally. Glad to see yours hasn't caused any problems.

Do you leave the camper mounted permanently or do you disconnect and reconnect the battery every time? Or do you simply pull the connected battery into the compartment? Does it slide around and pull on the wires or is the battery anchored somehow?


The old Grandbys have an existing opening there on three corners. I just made it about 3" longer and 1" wider.
The battery sits on a standard battery tray that is bolted to the bed so it does not move at all.

The camper stays on all the time.

Also, mine does not use the "turnbuckle" mounting. Just four 3/8", grade 5 bolts with some 1/8" thick backing plates through the bed. Been well off-roaded for over five years.

 

[natjwest]

The old Grandbys have an existing opening there on three corners. I just made it about 3" longer and 1" wider.
...
The camper stays on all the time.
I would be loading and unloading the camper, and wouldn't be cutting the hole like you. Instead, I would place the batteries in the bolted-down trays prior to loading the camper. Then once loaded, do the electrical hookups which would consist of connecting one distribution block lead to each post.

 

[Desert Rancher]

Well that would certainly work. You could also make a small access opening if needed for connecting the wires.

I used a metal tray with large fender washers bolted through the bed. The battery is held down with the usual J-bolts which is secure (same as under the hood mounting). Mine already has large openings with a thin wood cover (factory), so making it a bit larger was not a concern for me.

***Just a reminder*** all connections to the "+" side MUST be fused as close as possible to the battery and use 10AWG wire.

 

[Barko1]

***Just a reminder*** all connections to the "+" side MUST be fused as close as possible to the battery and use 10AWG wire.

Curious as to why it needs to be as close to the battery? So the wire doesn't fry? I'm doing the solar install on my toyhauler and the instructions said the same. For my application and length of cable run they suggested 8 awg, .50 a foot!

 

[pods8]

When I was setting up mine if I wasn't using the turn buckles I'd have put them in the space you are talking about in heart beat.

 

[whizbang]

I've had a FWC and a Jayco and I've done it both ways, in the camper, and in the truck bed.

Overall, I think I like the truck bed better. You don't have to vent the battery, and you free up space for storage inside the camper.

On the downside, lugging a battery into the bed is just one more thing to do(and remember) every time you set up.

It's a trade-off. I still have the Jayco and my battery is in the bed, forward of the wheel well on the drivers side. Work's great.

 

[generubin]

Having the ATC shell model, I expect to use my battery only for lights. I converted to LED lighting. I really wanted to keep the battery out of the camper and in the bed of the truck, yet out of the way. I'm using this 18 amp/hr. battery. It fit very easily to the wall of my bed, forward of the wheel well. It is very light so securing was simple. I have three outside lights and the four bulbs on the inside. With the LED's, even if I was burning all seven at once (not likely), I'd only be using .52 amps/hr. This battery with all 7 lights on would last about 35 hours solid! Also, I do have reason to use the second battery for my radio and flashlight gear even when the camper is not on the truck. This battery may be smaller than what you can use but I like that it is attached to the bed wall, off the floor. A matching female connector is mounted just below the battery that fits the atc's male plug. I do use the turnbuckles but there is lots of clearance. A person could go a bit larger in batteries, mount one on each side and still use turnbuckles. Better pictures if you look on the "I ordered my Ocelot" thread in the ATC forum.

 

[dsrtrat]

Curious as to why it needs to be as close to the battery? So the wire doesn't fry? I'm doing the solar install on my toyhauler and the instructions said the same. For my application and length of cable run they suggested 8 awg, .50 a foot!

By placing the fuse as close to the power source (battery in this case) as possible you don't have as much unprotected wire with the potential to short to ground. The fuse will only protect wiring that is "downstream" of the fuse. If the wire from the battery to the fuse holder is shorted to ground it will be exposed to the full amperage that the battery can produce. Fried wiring and fire can result.
dsrtrat

 

[Barko1]

Thanks, that's kind of what I figured, closer is better but I supposed a few inches isn't critical if you have adequate wiring.

 

[Desert Rancher]

Thanks, that's kind of what I figured, closer is better but I supposed a few inches isn't critical if you have adequate wiring.


Yes. As the wire length gets longer, there are more possibilities for failure. Wires get pinched, chaffed and nicked. A dead short on a piece of wire will turn red hot along its whole length between the battery and the short.
A 3" length of red hot wire is better than 10'.

The common fusing method is to use an inline fuse holder connected directly to the battery and then spliced into the rest of the wire harness. Connections should be made with butt-splices - crimped, soldered and two layers of heat shrink tubing.

Also, every wire connected to the + side needs to be fused.

 

[brett13]

My ATC came with the battery mounted under the seat. It was not vented that I can tell. When I got a new battery, the guy at Interstate told me that even sealed AGM batteries need to be vented because they will gas when charging. If so, why is the battery inside the camper? I guess it isn't enough gassing to be dangerous then? I'm thinking of mounting the new, group 27, battery inside on the floor under the front window instead of under the seat. Is that a bad idea?

 

[pods8]

My ATC came with the battery mounted under the seat. It was not vented that I can tell. When I got a new battery, the guy at Interstate told me that even sealed AGM batteries need to be vented because they will gas when charging. If so, why is the battery inside the camper? I guess it isn't enough gassing to be dangerous then? I'm thinking of mounting the new, group 27, battery inside on the floor under the front window instead of under the seat. Is that a bad idea?


I think the sales dude might have been confused or he was talked about a normal "sealed" batteries which isn't an AGM. Most car starting batteries are "sealed". All that means is you can't maintenance them by adding water back in if needed. They still can/will off gas.

AGMs are build to not need venting, that is why they're used in the camper. Pretty standard practice. As long as that group 27 you are referring to is AGM I don't see any issue in moving it around inside the camper.

From windsun.com: Nearly all AGM batteries are "recombinant" - what that means is that the Oxygen and Hydrogen recombine INSIDE the battery. These use gas phase transfer of oxygen to the negative plates to recombine them back into water while charging and prevent the loss of water through electrolysis. The recombining is typically 99+% efficient, so almost no water is lost.

 

[brett13]

I think the sales dude might have been confused or he was talked about a normal "sealed" batteries which isn't an AGM. Most car starting batteries are "sealed". All that means is you can't maintenance them by adding water back in if needed. They still can/will off gas.

AGMs are build to not need venting, that is why they're used in the camper. Pretty standard practice. As long as that group 27 you are referring to is AGM I don't see any issue in moving it around inside the camper.



Thanks pods. Think I may have bought the wrong battery. I got one of these:
http://www.interstatebatteries.com/cs_eStore/Products/RT/PID-SLA1185%28Other+Products%29.aspx?dsNavigation=Ntk~SearchGroup|sla1185|3|%2cNy~True%2cNtpc~Disabled%2cNs~product+Type|101|1|&Title=12V+100AH+SLA+POST%2fFLAG+HANDLE

(I think this is it too: http://www.apexbattery.com/interstate-battery-sla1185-battery-sealed-lead-acid-batteries-interstate-batteries.html)

Did I screw up?

 

[dsrtrat]

Thanks pods. Think I may have bought the wrong battery. I got one of these:
http://www.interstatebatteries.com/cs_eStore/Products/RT/PID-SLA1185%28Other+Products%29.aspx?dsNavigation=Ntk~SearchGroup|sla1185|3|%2cNy~True%2cNtpc~Disabled%2cNs~product+Type|101|1|&Title=12V+100AH+SLA+POST%2fFLAG+HANDLE

(I think this is it too: http://www.apexbattery.com/interstate-battery-sla1185-battery-sealed-lead-acid-batteries-interstate-batteries.html)

Did I screw up?


I'll jump in here.

I think you want this one.

http://www.interstatebatteries.com/cs_estore/content/product_info/specs/dcm0100.pdf
This is the 100 amp hr version of the original ATC factory battery


The one you have is valve regulated and will outgas if the pressure within the battery rises. It also may not be a deep cycle battery as it isn't listed as one. It looks like it is used in UPS systems where there is usually a trickle charge and not too many discharge cycles.

Dsrtrat

 

[pods8]

brett13,

As Dstrat pointed out it looks like you got steered wrong on your selection. Did you just recently buy it? If so what did you ask the salesman for? Considering how expensive that battery lists for (don't know if that is what you paid) I'd be definitely wanting an actual AGM battery since you're in that price ballpark. Maybe you can hurry back in and explain the a manager you didn't get what you wanted and see about an exchange?