Battery, Solar, Charge Controller - Advice from scratch

[ThinAir]

Hello folks, was hoping for some "cut to the chase" advice here. I have a 2012 Hawk that I've been living with two AGM batteries from Cabella's until now. The batteries are shot and the first place I notice it is in my refrigerator, the last place you want issues with. So I'm starting over here, a do over so to speak. While I do have a solar plug on the roof, I have never had a panel or controller. I simply relied on the batteries, and quite honestly never took good care of them. The were group 30 batteries and I have two sitting side by side in the compartment provided by FWC.

For load, I have a fantastic fan, an ARB refrigerator, a propex furnace, std florescent lights, and a small water pump for the sink. The truck is a 2012 Ford F-250.

What I would like to do is utilize the existing space where the batteries were, and....

Purchase a new battery(s)
Get a charge controller
Get a solar panel

The goal here is to install a sufficient system, not underkill or no over. The charge controller via solar will be my primary means of charging the battery(s) as I have no shore power. I simply plug in an intelligent charger to each battery after disconnecting them from one another (read: hassle).

I've looked into the Renogy Panel from Amazon shipped to the door for $149.00 and the Morningstar TrackStar 15a for $231.00 (spendy)

I have no clue given my load if I need two batteries again or will one do the trick, and if so which batteries are recommended.

I live in Bozeman MT, and get plenty of sunshine and usually travel around the west exclusively.

The reason I looked at Renogy is that it is cheap. The reason I looked at Morningstar is that it offers intelligent charging that is supposedly good for the battery's life, health, and welfare.

So, a system that is just enough for my needs that I'm not throwing good money away that could be spent on Hopzone IPA!!

 

[PaulT]

In addition to the several solar power threads on WTW, check out handybobsolar.com as part of your research. This page in particular would seem to apply to your situation.

By the way, Handy Bob is in Montana. You might be able to contact him directly.
Good luck
Paul

ps Research twice, purchase once. Not like me who is now buying a better system like in the link above.

 

[Cayuse]

I have this kit from Renogy, upgraded to a 30 amp controller since the 20 was out of stock when I bought mine, with 2 group 31 flooded batteries. My biggest draw is an Isotherm Cruise 65 fridge, lights have been switched to LED, furnace use occasionally same with the water pump, fantastic fan will probably get added this summer.

I don't have Trimetric meter to measure everything but I run the fridge fulltime when the camper is on and check the batteries several times a week and even when we have rain for a few consecutive days my batteries will still stay over 12V.

YMMV

 

[DrJ]

There are lots of great resources on solar systems contained in wanderthewest and elsewhere.

Here are a couple of general points to consider:
1- Get an idea of how much power you use:

http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/9301-measured-fwc-power-use/

2- Have enough battery power to run your system for at least 1-2 days without any solar/truck/110 input.
Or be prepared to bring a generator, turn on the truck, etc... when it's not working out.

3- Sizing your solar system depends on how long you stay in any one area, time of the year, if you like parking in the shade,
etc... There are a ton of variables and everyone is a little different.
But get enough solar to both charge and run your system during the light hours - a common problem people don't take into account.
Here's a decent resource:
http://www.renogy-store.com/Solar-System-Sizing-s/1865.htm

4- A battery monitor is extremely helpful but many people get along without it. Consider adding at least a volt monitor. A trimetric monitor is about 1000 times better, but much more expensive.

5. Consider decreasing your power use - LED lights, catalytic heater, etc...
Less output of energy means less need for batteries, solar, monitors, etc...
Just ask the 3 way fridge guys - they rarely need solar.


Hope that helps you get started.

Handy Bob has excellent information and where I started learning most of what I know.

 

[smlobx]

I'm still learning myself but one of the other factors that hasn't been mentioned is how long do you stay in any one site and how often do you drive.

The Super Duty (I have one also) has a pathetically small alternator unless you ordered a larger one. I have a diesel with two on board batteries and just recently upgraded my alternator (and associated wiring). The truck starts right up as the batteries are now fully charged. I anticipate that this will also recharge the house batteries much faster now.

I am still planning on getting two AGM house batteries and maybe solar once I figure out how long we'll be off the grid.

Good luck!

 

[ThinAir]

There are lots of great resources on solar systems contained in wanderthewest and elsewhere.

Here are a couple of general points to consider:
1- Get an idea of how much power you use:

http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/9301-measured-fwc-power-use/

2- Have enough battery power to run your system for at least 1-2 days without any solar/truck/110 input.
Or be prepared to bring a generator, turn on the truck, etc... when it's not working out.

3- Sizing your solar system depends on how long you stay in any one area, time of the year, if you like parking in the shade,
etc... There are a ton of variables and everyone is a little different.
But get enough solar to both charge and run your system during the light hours - a common problem people don't take into account.
Here's a decent resource:
http://www.renogy-store.com/Solar-System-Sizing-s/1865.htm

4- A battery monitor is extremely helpful but many people get along without it. Consider adding at least a volt monitor. A trimetric monitor is about 1000 times better, but much more expensive.

5. Consider decreasing your power use - LED lights, catalytic heater, etc...
Less output of energy means less need for batteries, solar, monitors, etc...
Just ask the 3 way fridge guys - they rarely need solar.


Hope that helps you get started.

Handy Bob has excellent information and where I started learning most of what I know.

My ARB refrigerator states that it draws "up to" 2.3ah, but averages 1.7ah. My propex furnace states 1.7ah, the 3.5gpm sureflow pump can draw up to 5ah depending on flow. Then there are the lights. I have a florescent fixture with two tiny bulbs each about a foot long. Thats it. Really wondering if I need two batteries or one with solar. Looks like I'd better do some research per the links supplied and get a better education before spending a dime. Thanks a bunch. Brian

 

[ntsqd]

Our fridge is a 3-way, so it rarely runs on 12 VDC, lights are all LED, water pump gets used occasionally, same for the heater. We have two Trojan T-125 6VDC batteries in series. Solar is a single 100W rigid panel with a Morning Star Sunsaver Duo. I disabled the converter/charger in the camper's power panel after I discovered it boiling the batteries. Prior to the solar I added a Battery Tender "smart charger" that I've not needed since the solar install. I bought and installed a TriMetric meter prior to the solar in an attempt to learn what our demands actually were. I also installed a BEP Marine single sense Voltage Sensing Relay and have both power and ground cables from truck batteries to camper batteries, with 80A breakers at each end of the power cable.

After reading the Handy Bob blog and knowing that I'd be connecting other things to them I ran the truck to camper cables in 6 ga. I used an Anderson fork lift charging connector to allow for easy camper disconnect should that be needed.

Solar is wired in 10 ga., going against my own advice. I really would have preferred 8 ga., but the MC4 connectors used on the panel max out at 10 ga. wire, and cutting them off voids any warranty. Not to mention that the panel itself is wired with 10 ga. Bigger wire = less voltage drop, but the point may be moot with a PWM type solar charge controller.

We only connect to shore power when getting ready to go to cool down the fridge. I mostly run the fridge on propane, only switch hit to DC when re-filling the propane tank and it's already cold. The Battery Tender charger has to be plugged in, it doesn't charge automatically when connected to shore power. We use it so little that I'm thinking to take it out.

The solar panel came along as too good of a deal to pass up before I fully knew what our demands were, so I didn't, X2 - just in case. I've since traded the other panel to friend. With our uses I've yet to see the batteries below 96% State of Charge.

 

[JaSAn]

+3 on HandyBob! I learned a lot from his blog, especially the Battery Charging Puzzle.
Another good source for RV solar is Jack Mayer:
http://www.jackdanmayer.com/rv_electrical_and_solar.htm

I would suggest you make a budget: add up all your expected loads for 24 hours and use that to determine what you need. For another example:
http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/9972-renovating-sk%C3%B6ldpaddan-%E2%80%93-1977-grandby-interior-build/
post #3

With 200W solar and 208AH batteries (2 x GC-2), I am at 100% by noon every day with the above loads. My goal is to be able to boondock indefinitely with just solar power.

jim

 

[BillM]

I agree, read handybob. I'd start with one panel (100w) and one battery. You can always add more if necessary.

 

[billharr]

I agree, read handybob. I'd start with one panel (100w) and one battery. You can always add more if necessary.

If you even think you might need two batteries it is best to get them at the same time. Having an old and new hooked together may shorten the life of the newer battery.