BedRug Liner Under A FWC?

[PaulT]

Wallowa,
I just heard that I 84 east bound is closed between troutdale and hood river due to fallen trees. You may want to confirm closures before heading out to avoid extra delays in either direction. Drive safe!

Saw the same on the news tonight. The following web page will help in PDX metro area.
http://www.tripcheck.com/Pages/RCMap.asp

Paul

 

[Wallowa]

Thanks !!!! What a Kool group....appreciate the info...hey, the adventure begins where the road ends....

Here we go..........................

Phil

 

[Wallowa]

Just got home...see my tale on "which dinette" choice thread....."We came, We saw, We ordered a Hawk."

Wild ride and but just got home safely...

Addressing the use of the BedRug under the Hawk...Jeff said it can be done but he was going to check with Stan at FWC...I have already discussed this with Stan and he did not see any "no-go" issues...I honestly to do not see any downsides and it will pad/friction the camper...time will tell.

Phil

Ps...Thanks again for the traffic alerts..many TCs on 84...what a zoo the Westside is!

 

[brianjwilson]

Congrats! Now the long wait. At least it is winter and you're not missing prime camping season. My fleet is due back in Tigard next week. I can't wait to get it back.

 

[Wallowa]

Thanks Brian...your Fleet needed repairs? Or add ons?

Phil

 

[brianjwilson]

Repairs. The inside shower pan had a hole in the bottom from the factory. It was never noticed because of the location of the hole. One use and water got under the linoleum and delaminated it. Which sounds like an easy fix until you realize that the linoleum is the first thing that gets installed onto the floor, before the cabinets and everything are built over the top.

 

[Wallowa]

Ouch! Damn.

Nothing against showers, but I thought of that when considering an inside shower. I am certain it will be redone and done correctly.

Phil

 

[Wallowa]

Well in anticipation of our Hawk going into the Tundra I removed the BedRug. Embarrassingly I had forgotten that I had a Line-X [perhaps a Rhino coating] spray in "liner" put into the bed of the truck just prior to installing the BedRub. Don't get me wrong, the BedRug is a super product but I did a little test and a lot more thinking about having it under the our new Hawk when we get it.

The test was simply to pour water on the BedRug and see if it was dispersed into the weave; it did just that. The BedRug is waterproof just like any rubber mat I could have put under the FWC but unlike the rubber mat the BR would have retained more water within the weave than would have been between the camper bottom and a rubber mat.

My primary objective is to limit the amount and duration of contact of water in the bed of the truck with the bottom of the camper.

I finally came to the conclusion that my Line-X will limit any shifting of the camper and retain the least amount of water under the Hawk.

Thanks all for the previous exchange of ideas!

Phil

Ps...Forgot how damn nice the Line-X coating was; looks and feels great.

 

[newtofwc]

If this is even a realistic approach to the limiting of camper shifting; has any success been obtained by using shims?

 

[Wallowa]

Advocate,

Review the FWC website and associated postings there. FWC's preference is using only a sprayed in liner. The Line-X and Rhino sprayed in liners have a textured surface that will grip without cutting into something placed on them. Not really even tough on knees but of course they have no padding. Yet you can slid the camper ["slid in campers"] onto and into position on the truck bed for adjustments after you lower the jacks.

Secondary is the tight fit of a Hawk into my Tundra; fractions of an inch will help with installation. The BedRug takes up space.

Lastly, the four turn buckles, if keep properly tightened, will prevent movement of the camper. The friction of the Line-X will only be a backup.

Again the only reason I removed the BR was to lessen the amount and duration of trapped moisture.

Phil

 

[newtofwc]

Ah, I need to spend more time learning about these situations before throwing ideas out there. I had been thinking more in general slid-in camper terms. Thank you for you consideration.

 

[Wallowa]

Advocate,

Believe me I am learning and I am very uniformed in so many areas. My natural 'want to know' just propels me to exam, turn over and ponder on different approaches to accomplishing a task or accomplish an objective.

The removal of my BedRug was made more painful for me by me than it had to be! Or as it is stated: "Nothing is so simple that it can be made more complicated". Logic and the KISS approach is most often best.

So by all means keep throwing ideas out, especially for my benefit, cuz new perspectives are needed!

Phil

 

[allanb]

Thanks for posting this up Phil. Ironic, cause i just dropped my truck off tonight to have linex installed tomorrow!
I was going to do it myself, this next summer, but got my first scratch on the new truck last week,ouch. Figured by summer all the scratches would be rusting and create more work. So bit the bullet on another $600 dollar spent on this project.
After researching some more on this great forum, and some truck sites, I decided on the linex. Will try the camper on that and see if moves around. If it does will try the foam mat.
Interesting that the bed rug held water.
What is the wait time on your fwc?
I have the running boards,and mud flaps on. The rear seat uninstalled from the crew cab. And am starting on the storage box build for that area. Got sidelined for a week redoing the garage to make space to park the new truck inside!

 

[iowahiker]

I posted my experience with shimming the camper in this thread:

http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/9608-wheel-well-shims/?hl=shims

Since then, I have even better results after sliding the camper forward to touch the front of the truck bed. My theory is it is geometrically impossible to load a camper using jack legs and make good contact with the front of the truck bed. The truck bed moves in a motion controlled by the springs while the camper motion is different as it is controlled by the jacks. Neither the dealer or FWC factory installers were able to make good contact with the front of the truck bed using the jack legs (they jostle the camper forward the last bit if so inclined).

I shimmed my empty camper at the wheel wells to prevent side-to-side motion, loosened my turnbuckles, and stepped on the brakes firmly (not violently) while going downhill at slow speed (5 mph) and then tightened the turnbuckles before going back up . Measurements before and after showed the camper moving forward 1/8". My turnbuckles have never loosened since nor has the camper moved with the camper firmly against the front of the truck bed and the wheel wells shimmed even though I have a very slick and smooth truck bed (no liner). My opinion is needing to tighten turnbuckles is a sign of camper movement not turnbuckle loosening. Initial turnbuckle tightening is required as the camper flexes and settles into a loaded alignment. Assuming a correct amount of torque is applied to the turnbuckles (not too much or too little), future turnbuckle tightening would be a sign of camper movement.

Super tight control of the camper motion is important for our long trips but for short periods it may not achieve much. Camper movement increases as the camper polishes the truck bed. More frequent loading and unloading and short trips will prevent or reduce bed polishing.

 

[ski3pin]

Since then, I have even better results after sliding the camper forward to touch the front of the truck bed. <snip>

.................. and stepped on the brakes firmly (not violently) while going downhill at slow speed (5 mph) and then tightened the turnbuckles

We always do this after loading the camper back on the truck. We have a steep hill leading into our house. I back up the hill and then execute the "iowahiker method". I then set the brakes after stopping (on the incline) and the Lady and I push on the back of the camper. It is light enough that we can feel it move into place - if it isn't there already.

The truck has a sprayed in liner.

 

[Wallowa]

Tele and Iowa,

Great info, thanks. Sounds like a plan. Iowa the camper should never "polish" the bed with the LineX once in place and texture should help maintain that alignment.

Allanb...you asked about delivery...our Hawk will not be ready for pickup until first of February..no hurry this time of year and I am also surprised with all the "prep" I need to do...such as setting up the lift storage for my SnugTop shell now on Tundra..pulling back seat, installing front hitch, installing Hellwig bar. Did get RideRites installed and Qtowers/bar with air deflector. Actually fun if not stressed over!

Phil

 

[allanb]

Yes Phil the prep is fun. Enjoying all the research i feel is needed for a new truck and camper. And like you say, getting the truck ready.
So much stuff!
What are you going to use the front hitch for? For your "exploration vehicle"?. I ordered a double motor cycle rack and hitch yesterday to carry my "new" 86 honda trail 110, and maybe the 450 drz. Just want to putt..putt,, explore a bit further than my legs will carry me.
On to solar system study...should only take a week or so...
Should have fresh snow on the eagle cap, enjoy.

 

[Wallowa]

Allan,

Front receive will be for the receiver/plate mounted Warn to use front or back. Not certain where the winch will live; probably in front with a cover but only after I get the Hawk installed, weigh the rig and figure out best forward to rear weight distribution. When possible I will limit weight outboard of the axles. Warn comes later cuz of $$. But it will happen.

Crawled under and lubed the various and sundry u-joints, will change front and back diff fluids. And when shell is off, remove the tailgate.

I ordered the 160W mounted [Yakima traks] and 80w portable with the Hawk. I figure that FWC has more experience in rigging the Hawk than I do so we got damn near everything in the option list that we wanted or projected that would add to our enjoyment off road. Did have an eye toward long term off road trips beyond resupply points and thus conserving propane and electricity.

Motorcycles...I would love to tote along my '07 GSA [off road only use] but at close to 600lbs that is a bit much!

Ha, after all this a trailer may be in our future for specific trips...GSA and two 17' sea kayaks would make raising the pop-up tough!

North Cascades are indeed Rocky Mts West!

Phil

 

[brianjwilson]

I posted my experience with shimming the camper in this thread:

http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/9608-wheel-well-shims/?hl=shims

Since then, I have even better results after sliding the camper forward to touch the front of the truck bed. My theory is it is geometrically impossible to load a camper using jack legs and make good contact with the front of the truck bed. The truck bed moves in a motion controlled by the springs while the camper motion is different as it is controlled by the jacks. Neither the dealer or FWC factory installers were able to make good contact with the front of the truck bed using the jack legs (they jostle the camper forward the last bit if so inclined).

I shimmed my empty camper at the wheel wells to prevent side-to-side motion, loosened my turnbuckles, and stepped on the brakes firmly (not violently) while going downhill at slow speed (5 mph) and then tightened the turnbuckles before going back up . Measurements before and after showed the camper moving forward 1/8". My turnbuckles have never loosened since nor has the camper moved with the camper firmly against the front of the truck bed and the wheel wells shimmed even though I have a very slick and smooth truck bed (no liner). My opinion is needing to tighten turnbuckles is a sign of camper movement not turnbuckle loosening. Initial turnbuckle tightening is required as the camper flexes and settles into a loaded alignment. Assuming a correct amount of torque is applied to the turnbuckles (not too much or too little), future turnbuckle tightening would be a sign of camper movement.

Super tight control of the camper motion is important for our long trips but for short periods it may not achieve much. Camper movement increases as the camper polishes the truck bed. More frequent loading and unloading and short trips will prevent or reduce bed polishing.

It is very possible to get good contact with the front of the bed. It is simple actually but it may take a little practice.
Set the camper up nose high. This places the bottom of the front jacks FORWARD of where they would be, if the camper was level or loaded. Back up until the bumpers make light contact with the front of the bed. Lower the camper while keeping the nose high, as it comes down it is also creeping forward. When the rear of the camper contacts the back of the bed, you may have to inch it down a small amount front and back, until the rear jacks are unloaded. As you lower the front all the way down it will continue to push forward slightly.
I've down both of my campers this way and it works great. If the nose is too high it will actually bind a little bit, it doesn't need to be that high.

I've never had to do more than a small snug on the turnbuckles, and I believe that is mostly due to the 1/2" rubber mat under the camper.

 

[iowahiker]

Interesting way of changing the geometry. I also thought of using a jack under my hitch receiver to take the springs out of the motion but sliding the camper forward on our hill is fairly quick and easy. Thanks for sharing an interesting option.