RC Pilot Jim
Senior Member
Since I am completing year 5 (Eagle shell May 2012), I am updating the "build Post" on what I have learned the last year.
The August 2014 update was from my solo 3 week trip to Oregon. (page 6) dealt with cooking inside and batteries. 3 years have passed since that post so thought the new owners that are still reading to understand batteries might benefit from viewing the information.
I'm exploring Oregon this month so will have updates on what is working in the field. One unexpected rain storm has me cooking full time in the camper as it is easier!......than outside!!!
The best way to get a camping system worked out is to camp for a couple of weeks straight.
3 – week Oregon Trip 2014
Distance covered 2,408 miles. Cities visited: Medford. Bend (now I know reason MarkBC lives there), Sisters, Mt Washington Nat Forest, Eugene then the coast from Florence to Brookings and on into Calif down 101. Spent 9 nights camping, 6 with friends, 2 motels.
Field Report starts on the coast 8 miles south Florence
Camped at "Siltcoos National Forrest"…..Awoke to rain. Decided to stay a second day because didn’t want to lower the roof on wet canvass liner. Cooked inside all day….first time I have cooked in the rain.
Dry Camping more than one day had me worrying about the battery , because if the voltage drops below 12 volts the truck separator will prevent connecting to the truck alternator and I will need to run “shell-shore power” to charge battery sufficiently to get the separator to re-connect.
I chose to leave the portable solar panel at home because I did not plan on being off 110 volts or the truck alternator more than 17 hours per day.
Now I am camping for two days… (Best laid plans)
Recorded (conditions) Temp cool – low 70’s during day.Mid 50’s at night. Slept with top sheet, blanket and sleeping bag as a comforter.
Day 2
Engine off overnight - 17 hours – low reading 12.3 volts. Run engine one hour (6: am) = Voltage 12.9
Engine off 12 hours – low reading 12.2 volts. Run engine one hour (6
m) = Voltage 12.9
Day 3 morning
Engine off 13 hours – low reading 12.1 volts. Run engine one hour (6am) = voltage 12.9
So engine alternator does charge the battery …..just won’t top it off
If I had a solar panel mounted on the roof, even on a gray day, panel would have maintained 12.9 volts during light hours. I proved my theory in April while attending the FWC factory rally as we camped in a cloud for 3 days – rainy - drizzly weather. Deployed panel maintained voltage 12.9 volts during day.
My friend in Roseburg is an electrician and gave me a "6 year olds" explanation of how the separator works. “Think of charging volts as “water” flowing through a hose. Resistance is a clamp on the hose. The “Separator” joins both batteries when the engine is started – running the fridge from the alternator and flowing volts (water) to the battery(s). As the camper battery reaches full the “separator” through its programming increases the “resistance” (clamping pressure) and reduces the flow of volts (water) to battery.
“Separator” monitors the battery continuing to increase/or decrease the flow (voltage) as required. .
Problem with the “separator” is when battery voltage drops below 12 volts. Than the “separator” disconnects the camper battery to PROTECT the starting battery. Disconnecting means the Fridge is now drawing current from the camper battery. (Compressor fridge 2.5 to 4 amps per hour. 3-way Fridge 11.8 amps per hour)
That is reason camper (owner) has to plug the battery into “IOTA” 110 volt shore power, or solar panel, or a stand-a-lone battery charger.
That is also the reason I have a “ LARGE RED DIGITAL VOLTMETER”…to monitor when I need to run the truck motor if I don’t have my portable solar panel with me. And no 110 volt electricity to run my “shell-shore power”.
That conversation on fuses, fuse panel, amp draw with tables continued on page 7, 8, and 9 (click on the link below my signature go to page 6-9)
The August 2014 update was from my solo 3 week trip to Oregon. (page 6) dealt with cooking inside and batteries. 3 years have passed since that post so thought the new owners that are still reading to understand batteries might benefit from viewing the information.
I'm exploring Oregon this month so will have updates on what is working in the field. One unexpected rain storm has me cooking full time in the camper as it is easier!......than outside!!!
The best way to get a camping system worked out is to camp for a couple of weeks straight.
3 – week Oregon Trip 2014
Distance covered 2,408 miles. Cities visited: Medford. Bend (now I know reason MarkBC lives there), Sisters, Mt Washington Nat Forest, Eugene then the coast from Florence to Brookings and on into Calif down 101. Spent 9 nights camping, 6 with friends, 2 motels.
Field Report starts on the coast 8 miles south Florence
Camped at "Siltcoos National Forrest"…..Awoke to rain. Decided to stay a second day because didn’t want to lower the roof on wet canvass liner. Cooked inside all day….first time I have cooked in the rain.
Dry Camping more than one day had me worrying about the battery , because if the voltage drops below 12 volts the truck separator will prevent connecting to the truck alternator and I will need to run “shell-shore power” to charge battery sufficiently to get the separator to re-connect.
I chose to leave the portable solar panel at home because I did not plan on being off 110 volts or the truck alternator more than 17 hours per day.
Now I am camping for two days… (Best laid plans)
Recorded (conditions) Temp cool – low 70’s during day.Mid 50’s at night. Slept with top sheet, blanket and sleeping bag as a comforter.
Day 2
Engine off overnight - 17 hours – low reading 12.3 volts. Run engine one hour (6: am) = Voltage 12.9
Engine off 12 hours – low reading 12.2 volts. Run engine one hour (6
m) = Voltage 12.9Day 3 morning
Engine off 13 hours – low reading 12.1 volts. Run engine one hour (6am) = voltage 12.9
So engine alternator does charge the battery
…..just won’t top it off If I had a solar panel mounted on the roof, even on a gray day, panel would have maintained 12.9 volts during light hours. I proved my theory in April while attending the FWC factory rally as we camped in a cloud for 3 days – rainy - drizzly weather. Deployed panel maintained voltage 12.9 volts during day.
My friend in Roseburg is an electrician and gave me a "6 year olds" explanation of how the separator works. “Think of charging volts as “water” flowing through a hose. Resistance is a clamp on the hose. The “Separator” joins both batteries when the engine is started – running the fridge from the alternator and flowing volts (water) to the battery(s). As the camper battery reaches full the “separator” through its programming increases the “resistance” (clamping pressure) and reduces the flow of volts (water) to battery.
“Separator” monitors the battery continuing to increase/or decrease the flow (voltage) as required. .
Problem with the “separator” is when battery voltage drops below 12 volts. Than the “separator” disconnects the camper battery to PROTECT the starting battery. Disconnecting means the Fridge is now drawing current from the camper battery. (Compressor fridge 2.5 to 4 amps per hour. 3-way Fridge 11.8 amps per hour)
That is reason camper (owner) has to plug the battery into “IOTA” 110 volt shore power, or solar panel, or a stand-a-lone battery charger.
That is also the reason I have a “ LARGE RED DIGITAL VOLTMETER”…to monitor when I need to run the truck motor if I don’t have my portable solar panel with me. And no 110 volt electricity to run my “shell-shore power”.
That conversation on fuses, fuse panel, amp draw with tables continued on page 7, 8, and 9 (click on the link below my signature go to page 6-9)
