Bend in black roof panels

Thanks for the reply, I'm interested with any problems with composite plates.

I need a new liner too. However ATC won't use composite for rebuilding lift plates, they still use wood??? And, get a little miffed when I mention it, without a reason why? But, do not like new FWC's liner with no window awnings. So, will have to build my own new end plates before taking to ATC for new liner.........crazy... From what I've experienced with the wood; mold, cracking, rivet pull through, I know I want something stronger and resistant to moisture.
 
Interesting today called FWC to purchase composite panels. They will not sell them or material to make them. Will only do $$$$ install of them...So trying to source my own material. As FWC says on one of their videos, sourcing good plywood now a problem, one reason they have gone to composite...
 
I think the hinge bound up at some point and bent the panels. I was going to have FWC look at them at Expo East but the weather stopped people from getting on the grounds so I'm going to ask them and my vendor (AT Overland) to have a look at Expo West this spring. They don't seem to be bending any more, so maybe they were that way from the start.
 
Aluminum panels of same thickness would be much heavier, and transmit cold and heat rapidly.. I measure current plywood at 4mm. (.158"). And don't know type of this used in 1999 when mine was built. Has white laminate on face.


Tubing used in post on this forum " This Old Granby Build topic 10761 is interesting, but have not seen followup of it. And, wonder if emt is subject to bending and or only having 4 points of attachment to carry weight is enough. Or that 3/4" tubing is too thick when folded on top of mattress?

High strength aluminum sheet, (6061 T6 or 2024T3), .125 skeletonized out with large lighting cutouts, big enough to let one stuff sheets of Prodex insulation behind it might work? Seems a lot of the resistance to bending strength of the plywood is supplemented with the aluminum extrusions riveted to front of lower panels. These would be needed on .125" skeletonized aluminum plate also, IMO. Aluminum much more $$$ then wood. Having openings in panels to clean behind them, (mold, mildew, condensation), is a definite advantage.
 
If skeletonized, paint or dip not going to do much, Prodex, ( insulation4less.com), could be bonded to back sides. I'd like to use screws instead of rivets so could get it down periodically to clean behind plates. Thin panhead # 10 stainless.. Trying to get a sample of some 3/16" structural FRP panels made by Bedford.

Could someone inform me why I can't paste any links here? Tried the clipboard symbols above and regular way nothing works..
 
Stalking Light said:
No I didn't get a chance to get FWC to look at the at Expo East and they are still intact. I plan to get them looked at at Expo West.
Click to expand...
Charlie,

Did you get any resolution or repair on your lift panel. I just noticed I have some thing happening on my lift panels.

Thanks,

Jim
 
For time being, and because only one side of front panel was effected, I 2x4 braced the top up and removed screws to drop panel. Then made an aluminum sheet .060, I think, doubler to go over pulled through rivet heads, Drilled out old rivets and drove new ones. Going to be more aggressive in lifting panel with my strength into up position and not putting very much force on bracket handle until it is almost fully up. Could see some rivets on other side starting to just barely compress plywood, but decided to leave as is for now.
Found lots of stuff on liner behind panel, cleaned it and back of panel then sprayed with Concrobium Mold Control from Home Depot.
If I'd not had a trip coming up, I would have painted back of plates with clear epoxy to seal and strengthen them. Back of panels are bare wood? However, wonder if that wood needs to breath to dryout after getting soaked with water vapor from propane cooking and human exhale....that I believe may still penetrate it from edges and front face laminate?

I keep bed out in Queen position, so, found using an aluminum bunk ladder that hooks over slide out edge, cut to correct length, allows me to get up on it and apply force up with back and shoulders. Also makes easier for old man to get into bed.... one inch hook model: BL200-03

http://www.toplinemfg.com/html/rv-bunkladder.html
 
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