bolt down vs. tie-down

SeldomSeen

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Denver, CO
If the grandby is going to be a permanent installation on the truck, is there any advantage to using the turnbuckle system over bolt down? I assume there would be some minor forgiveness/flex advantages built-in with the tie-downs, possibly dampening dynamic loads that a bolt-on application would transfer completely to the camper frame. Is this worth worrying about, or should I just have them bolt 'er in and not have to worry about turnbuckles loosening themselves?
 
I wouldn't worry about it.

That is how FWC installed my new 1983 Grandby into my 1983 Chevy pickup back in the day. Over twenty years of off road use and no problems what so ever. Never once even loosened. I would suggest a rubber bed mat, elevator bolts (4), fender washers and locking nuts.

My new Hawk has the turn buckles and so far no issues with those either.
 
My turn buckles all loosened up. It was installed in Jackson hole and by the time I got to Jackson pass about 20 miles down the road one had fallen off and the others were loose. I kept an eye on them until I got home and put a lock nut on the right hand thread of the turn buckles. I have had them loosen up since.
 
In Oregon, Bolt Down (Over Tie Down) Means Savings Of $75 Per Year I Think... No Plates Or Title If Its Permanently Affixed. g
 
KILR0Y said:
In Oregon, Bolt Down (Over Tie Down) Means Savings Of $75 Per Year I Think... No Plates Or Title If Its Permanently Affixed. g
I respectfully disagree. In Oregon the attachment method is of no significance. If it has permanent cooking and sleeping facilities and is in the bed of your pickup it is considered a camper. There is more to the definition but that is the gist. The cost of registering depends on the length of the R.V.
 
idahoron said:
My turn buckles all loosened up. It was installed in Jackson hole and by the time I got to Jackson pass about 20 miles down the road one had fallen off and the others were loose. I kept an eye on them until I got home and put a lock nut on the right hand thread of the turn buckles. I have had them loosen up since.
When first installed, I was told to check the turn buckles 30 or 40 miles down the road and that the camper will settle into the bed after awhile. Found one slightly loose during this settling period. Since they've always been tight whenever I've checked which is usually before any long trip. I hand tighten with a 1/2 to 1 turn with a screw driver after hand tight.
 
JHa6av8r said:
When first installed, I was told to check the turn buckles 30 or 40 miles down the road and that the camper will settle into the bed after awhile. Found one slightly loose during this settling period. Since they've always been tight whenever I've checked which is usually before any long trip. I hand tighten with a 1/2 to 1 turn with a screw driver after hand tight.
Same here
 
rayct77, In addition to your points, add over 55 inches. Shorter than that, we can save a few bucks. I am planning on licensing the Granby, just in case I run into an over zealous LEO. I think it is 59 inches.
 
Uh, Yes They Could Be. There Are Way More Important Things You Can Do While On Patrol ThaN To Bust Me Fore This.

What Next? You You Going To bust Me for SCUBA Diving Without A Certification? Or For Camping Outside A Campground?

Go Put Some Criminals In Jail...
 
Our ATC has turnbuckles and we have put about 3500 miles on it over the five weeks we have owned it. Have not had a turnbuckle loosen yet - so Marty must have done a good job!
 
KILR0Y said:
Uh, Yes They Could Be. There Are Way More Important Things You Can Do While On Patrol ThaN To Bust Me Fore This.

What Next? You You Going To bust Me for SCUBA Diving Without A Certification? Or For Camping Outside A Campground?

Go Put Some Criminals In Jail...
Kilroy,
It's clear the moderators don't want is to go off topic and I would like to respect that. Feel free to PM me if you would like to talk further. You said you are LE. I would be interested in finding out more about that. Thank,
Chris
 
I have 9,000 miles on my Eagle bolted down. About 200 miles of bad washboard road and all the nuts are tight.
FWC has the long "Elevator bolts" (flat on top) as the longest I found commercially are about 2 inches and you will need 3-7/8ths length. Contact Terry Budd at FWC terry@fourwh.com
 
rayct77 said:
Kilroy,
It's clear the moderators don't want is to go off topic and I would like to respect that. Feel free to PM me if you would like to talk further. You said you are LE. I would be interested in finding out more about that. Thank,
Chris
No Need, For Sure. btw, Where Did Your Post Go About You Being An LE Officer? It Seemed To Have Disappeared...
 
Anyone using a traditional truck camper tie down system, i.e. Happy Jack or Tork Lift?
 
Several use the outside the bed systems, myself included or I should I did as I'm currently/temporally between trucks. I used the Happijack system with the rear tiedown buttons mounted to the bumper. I should mention my Grandby is older and didn't have the front access ports to correctly do the inside mount. In fact I'll hazard a guess that when mine was new that bolting through the floor to mount was standard.

When I get my truck back or get a new one I'll go Happijack again.
 
We have a local welding shop that installs a kit they call "Baja" a custom "Torklift" that cost around $600 installed. About $300 cheaper than "Torquelift" . If interested "Private Message me" and I will forward name and phone number.
 

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