Broken frame welds, front of 2000 Grandby

[Dr Paddle]

Hi, folks -

My efforts to repair my 2000 Grandby continue. Latest discovery is that welds have broken on the three short frame tubes at the front of the camper. I expect this is from the camper banging into the lip of the truck bed (an issue I am addressing).
It's currently impractical to transport the camper to a welding shop. So, I'm planning to use stainless steel angle brackets (to prevent corrosion) and aluminum pop rivets to resecure the tubes. Any thoughts on this approach?
As most of us know, FWC only welded one of the four edges of the tubes. I understand they did that to enable more frame flex for offroading. However, it also makes those welds prone to breakage.
In the photo, I have displaced one of the tubes for emphasis. The other two identical tubes also have broken welds at one or both ends.
Thanks!
Kevin in San Diego

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

Welcome to the WTW group.
The SS brackets might be the easiest method
to repair the detached frame member.
You could also use a triangle gusset.

Good luck with the problem.
Frank

 

[camelracer]

The combination of stainless and aluminum could cause galvanic corrosion problems.

 

[joez3]

I have never used these, maybe this would work for you: Aluminum Welding Rods - Pack of 8 Low Temperature Rods (harborfreight.com)

 

[JediahPorter]

I had the same breaks in my 1999 Hawk. I used angle brackets to repair a couple years ago. I haven't opened it up to inspect since... I guess that isn't too helpful.

Now I'm curious about the Harbor Freight low temp "welding" rods.

 

[Porkface]

I've tried to use the low temp alu. welding rods before (not from Harbor Freight) and could never get a clean "weld". Due to the frame flexing here, I don't think a low temp "weld" (solder?) would last very long. I'd use the triangular gusset with rivets repair myself.

 

[Beach]

Since you've discounted the welding option; Your bracket and rivet idea is probably the next best thing but consider bedding the brackets in a polyurethane adhesive(3m 5200) while installing(riveting), poly U will add a lot of strength plus it can flex without breaking or cracking. Flexible epoxy might be another choice. You might also consider adding flat T shaped gussets to the aluminum face of the framing, again bonding with adhesive and rivets.I don't think the thickness of the "face gussets" would affect the aluminum siding noticeably from laying down flat. The inside angles of the T brackets should be radiused and not square to prevent tearing during flexing motion. Be sure to rough up all surfaces you apply adhesive to and clean with a good grease remover/cleaner.

 

[Wildcat]

The above idea of using some type of adhesive is worth considering. Keep in mind that modern auto industry manufacturing processes also uses ahesives, sometimes in lieu of welding. In your application for the tube repair given the small area of contact for the weld, a combo of gussets and ahesives might be the better than the original construction.

 

[JaSAn]

^^ what Wildcat said.

I would talk with an application engineer from 3M, Loctite, or other major adhesive manufacturer.

They glued together a bridge across the St. Croix River a couple of years ago, so they should have an adhesive that is strong enough for your application.

 

[Dr Paddle]

The suggestions from Beach, Wildcat, and JaSAn to use adhesives and brackets arrived just a bit late for my repair. Great ideas, though. I'll keep an eye on my repair and, if the brackets and rivets I used fail, I'll go with glue. Thanks!

BTW, I just posted in a new thread the video my daughter made of her trip in the camper through wild Utah. She had a blast!

 

[Mark G]

Same problem with my 2000 Eagle. I moved the tubes back into their original position and reskinned the front with a sheet 0f 16 ga. aluminum and sheet metal screws. Seems pretty solid.