Burned front canvas

[Jon R]

Connectors and splices can get loose or corroded and develop high resistance and heat up. You may want to replace the splice (I assume that is what you mean by connector) with a high quality new splice onto clean wire. Maybe shrink wrap the splice, too, with heat shrink tube.

 

[muttmaster]

Thanks Jon for the advise. I will replace new splice, and the burned one may be a butt connector, not sure yet. New wiring around the splice is a good idea, and I will use bit longer new wire section to make crimping job easier.

I was wondering if I replace the wiring section that is not so difficult to replace with 8 gauge insulated wire and 8 gauge connectors or splicer, would it help or will it be worth the trouble using crimpable step up connectors.

I have used 10 gauge trailer brake wires that is pretty well protected but not sure if there is a good heat resistant insulated 10 gauge out there.

 

[muttmaster]

Helmet,

You were spot on. You are right about the crimp and the wiring. It did look a bit skinny for 10 gauge.

What was your solution? Stay with same wires and used new crimp? Should I get rid of the 12 gauge section?

 

[Vic Harder]

A small section of 12g won't hurt, but since you are in there, do it right with 10g marine grade supple wires....

 

[muttmaster]

I will do that. Thanks for the advise Vic.

 

[muttmaster]

Burned splice was most likely caused by corrosion of exposed positive splice ends wire. Apparently all the wires from roof to back of front panel is 12 gauge. I didn’t trace the 12 gauge below the panels but at some point, 10 gauge wiring does go into the controller.

I just replaced a short section of 10 gauge and crimped on new splice and shrink wrap and taped all exposed ends. But I am not happy in finding out that 4WC did not bother to put in 10 gauge all the way from roof to controller as I estimate that total length of the existing 12 gauge wiring may be around 15 feet.

I assume the corrosion on both ends of the splice could have been prevented if 4WC had shrink wrap the splice. I also assume the corrosion prevented the 20+volts from the panel flows through the blockage, creating heat and thus scorching the front vinyl.