C0 and propane detectors

cwdtmmrs

Senior Member
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Apr 2, 2010
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I search all of the threads on this topic, but still have a couple of questions. How much current do the hard-wired combo units draw and is it just better to go with separate battery units with the propane detector mounted near the floor and the C0 detector mounted at sleeping level? I know that the current draw might be moot, but get several gadgets drawing .1 amps and don't drive the camper for a few weeks and you have a low battery.

Thanks,
CWD
 
When you hit the "kill switch" on the camper no power is available/being used in the camper.

I think.
 
From the owners manual, page 5:


"Disconnect 12 volt power to camper with the master switch (“red or silver” push/pull knob near fuse panel & circuit breakers) if camper is not being used, over time the alarms may drain the battery."
 
I have a mid 90's Ranger II. No kill switch, but not hard to install one. Maybe not a bad idea.

CWD
 
Battery vs hardwired detectors. I personally use the 9 volt battery powered ones for the very reason you pointed out, battery drain. Based on my experience with the hard wired ones in my house had no backup power so no electricity = no detector. I mention this as my CO detector saved me several years ago when the exhaust system on the on board generator in my motorhome I had at the time failed one night.

Kill switch is a good idea too. I have an older Grandby and just the digital thermostat I installed would run it down over time before I got the solar tender working correctly and on a couple of occasions I've had the flopping of the canvas on rough roads flip on an overhead light while driving. It never hurt the canvas, but it could have. Mine was wired with a "Master" plug at the block I now pull to kill power to the accessories but if I ever recover from PLS, (Perpetual Laziness Syndrome) brought on by my wife's addiction to an old cape cod house requiring my over commitment to repairs and remodel I want to put in a switch.

Good luck with your decision....
 

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