Camper Shifting Issue

[M1010 Mike]

So I am having an issue with my Grandby shifting in the bed. I am using lock nuts on the turnbuckles and they are tight. Before this last trip I added a rubber bed mat which really helped until the last day with some higher speed washboard roads. In each case, the back end on the driver side shifts over and the front passenger side bumper is moved away from the bed front wall.

It seems that all the tight, rocky trails, it didn't move at all, with the bed mat installed so it definitely seems to be related to higher speed washboard.

Any thoughts or ideas. I have thought about adding some strips in the bed that would take up the approx. 1.5" space between the wheel wells and the camper.

Thanks!

 

[Barko1]

Instead of a rubber mat I use 2" of blue foamboard insulation. Hasn't been moving at all but how fast are you going

 

[M1010 Mike]

Like 45-50 mph. These are basically straight trails with a light washboard, where driving a little faster makes them disappear versus driving slow and feeling ever one. It's hard to explain. Heck, I get more bouncing on some of the local freeways.

 

[K7MDL]

I have considred installing small wood spacer blocks on each side between the rear lower sidewall of the camper and the inside tailgate vertical posts.

 

[MarkBC]

I have considred installing small wood spacer blocks on each side between the rear lower sidewall of the camper and the inside tailgate vertical posts.

I've had the same idea...but haven't tried it yet. My camper has stayed pretty-well centered lately, so I haven't had a strong incentive. Still think it's worth trying, though.

 

[K7MDL]

I have not taken my camper off the truck for the longest time so I have not installed the blocks. I have a Happijac tiedown system in my truck bed from my previous full size camper. It comes with centering cones for the front of the camper. As a result the front never shifts. The back does a bit which annoys me. No more symmetry!

Happijac also has rear truck bed centering guides, basically cones or cylinders that bolt to the truck bed. That means more holes, no thanks.

I figure some 1" oak blocks, cut at a 30 degree angle on the forward facing end so they slide and center the camper during loading is the way to go. I would attach them to the camper with 3M double sticky tape or marine adhesive and would be less intrusive than screws.

 

[ntsqd]

Like 45-50 mph. These are basically straight trails with a light washboard, where driving a little faster makes them disappear versus driving slow and feeling ever one. It's hard to explain. Heck, I get more bouncing on some of the local freeways.

My family has always called those "4-40 roads." You either go 4 mph or 40 mph, there really isn't a speed in between that works.

Is it possible to splay the anchors more than they are? When they are vertical or nearly so they can't resist lateral deflection with much force, no matter how tight they are. (Witness a tight-rope's sag under the load of the walker.) If the anchors can be repositioned with some angle in the plane perpendicular to the chassis centerline, like this: / \ but even this \/ would work, then they'll start to be able to better hold the camper centered in the bed.

 

[M1010 Mike]

Thanks for the replies. Glad I am not the only one with this issue.

Thom - I'll have to remember that "4-40 road" phrase. That is exactly what I am talking about.

I think some type of "rub rails" is likely the way to go but I might wait to do that when I switch over to a flat bed. Maybe for now I will put some spacers right at the tailgate opening, to help keep it centered in the back.

 

[pods8]

My camper is the ones for the 60" tailgate and it fits snugly in the rear. As long as I have the front up against some wood blocks I put against the front of my bed I don't have any movement issues. The only time I did have some movement/shifting is when I didn't have the camper fully aligned straight and up against the wood blocks in the front.

 

[cwdtmmrs]

A couple of years I wanted to seal and waterproof the plywood on my Ranger II. Rather than just repaint, I caulked all of the seams and rolled a couple of heavy coats of truck bed liner on all of the factory painted surfaces. It is a bit of a mess rolling the liner on while laying on your back, but the results have been excellent for waterproofing and as a bonus...no more camper shifting. I guess the added friction keeps the camper from moving.

CWD

 

[TGK]

I'll 2nd the input from "ntsqd" regarding checking whether the anchors are close to vertical vs being splayed out. After picking up my new Grandby Shell, I found that the rear of the camper was sliding from side to side on my '99 F250 even though I had tightened the anchors down. I had previously owned a FWC Grandby for 7 years on the same truck and never experienced this. After taking a closer look at the new anchors in the rear, I found that they were barely off vertical. I was close to the FWC factory, so I swung by and had them reposition the eyebolts to provide more angle for the anchors. Haven't had a problem since.

TK

 

[M1010 Mike]

Anchors are splayed out per factory specs. I used FWC info regarding placement of the eye bolts. They are angled fore and aft and as far to the outside of the bed as they can go.

 

[rotti]

A couple of years I wanted to seal and waterproof the plywood on my Ranger II. Rather than just repaint, I caulked all of the seams and rolled a couple of heavy coats of truck bed liner on all of the factory painted surfaces. It is a bit of a mess rolling the liner on while laying on your back, but the results have been excellent for waterproofing and as a bonus...no more camper shifting. I guess the added friction keeps the camper from moving.

CWD


Good idea.
Seems like FWC/ATC should be doing this at the factory.

After reading all these posts on tie down problems why not just bolt thru the floor?
Old school, that's how FWC did it for years and years.
I never once had a problem with my four elevator bolts (I did have a rubber bed mat).

 

[camper357]

Good idea.
Seems like FWC/ATC should be doing this at the factory.

After reading all these posts on tie down problems why not just bolt thru the floor?
Old school, that's how FWC did it for years and years.
I never once had a problem with my four elevator bolts (I did have a rubber bed mat).



I wonder if the truck bed liner in a can would work the same, it is definitely easy to apply.

 

[cwdtmmrs]

I used a gallon can and a roller/brush/putty knife. I don't think spray cans are the way to go unless you turn the camper on its top!

CWD

 

[craig333]

I did a brush on bedliner in my Jeep. Turned out very well. Was a pita to do though. Follow the instructions to the letter.