CFX3 55IM

[Outnabout]

Thinking about this fridge. Anyone have experience with this newer line? Power consumption? I’m thinking of using plugged into the cab 12v socket. I have recently replaced my camper/truck separator with a Blue Sea that allows solar charging of truck batteries and camper. I’m thinking this will be useful for keeping the fridge plugged in and not dragging my starter battery down.

Any advice and experience welcomed.

 

[PaulT]

From their manual, https://www.dometic.com/assets/74/53/dometiccfx3_opm_4445103160_amer(en-fr-es)_2020-10-26_77453.pdf

page 40, power consumption on 12v is 8.9 amps. That is almost twice what my factory 100l Dometic unit consumes with more than twice the storage volume. And mine uses too much power compared to others.

Some of the power may be in the WiFi or the ice maker function, but I’d keep looking.

Paul

 

[Outnabout]

From their manual, https://www.dometic.com/assets/74/53/dometiccfx3_opm_4445103160_amer(en-fr-es)_2020-10-26_77453.pdf
page 40, power consumption on 12v is 8.9 amps. That is almost twice what my factory 100l Dometic unit consumes with more than twice the storage volume. And mine uses too much power compared to others.

Some of the power may be in the WiFi or the ice maker function, but I’d keep looking.

Paul

Thanks, I think the 8.9 amps you saw in the manual is rated current and I believe that is the limit of safe operation. The power draw is supposed to be around 1 amp/hour.

Are you happy with your Dometic? Front opening or chest type?

 

[PaulT]

Front opening. It came with the camper. There are better, less power burning units. Lots of threads here discussing and cussing fridges and power.

Don't beleive any average power draw ratings. That number is always based on unstated assumptions of ambient temperature, temperature delta between ambient and your fridge internal temp setting, how many times you open the fridge, etc.

What matters is what is the running amps, the number of hours per day the compressor is running to maintain internal temp., efficiency of compressor, any cooling fans to dump heat out of fridge compartment and any additional insulation you place around the fridge.

Getting that data depends on learning how you use the fridge. Running the fridge in Death Valley in the warmer months means a lot more runnning hours per day than running the fridge in more northern areas or in the cooler months.

This leaves only the rated running power consumption as a way to compare two fridges.

Best thing you can do is to make sure you install a battery monitor that displays the running amps, total amp hours consumed and replaced and battery state of charge and voltage. This will tell you if you need to find shore power to ensure that you have sufficient energy to keep your food safe.

If weather is not allowing solar to keep up, over some time frame, you may need to find a campground with electrical hookup for a night to fully recharge your battery.

Paul
Paul.

 

[Outnabout]

Front opening. It came with the camper. There are better, less power burning units. Lots of threads here discussing and cussing fridges and power.

Don't beleive any average power draw ratings. That number is always based on unstated assumptions of ambient temperature, temperature delta between ambient and your fridge internal temp setting, how many times you open the fridge, etc.

What matters is what is the running amps, the number of hours per day the compressor is running to maintain internal temp., efficiency of compressor, any cooling fans to dump heat out of fridge compartment and any additional insulation you place around the fridge.

Getting that data depends on learning how you use the fridge. Running the fridge in Death Valley in the warmer months means a lot more runnning hours per day than running the fridge in more northern areas or in the cooler months.

This leaves only the rated running power consumption as a way to compare two fridges.

Best thing you can do is to make sure you install a battery monitor that displays the running amps, total amp hours consumed and replaced and battery state of charge and voltage. This will tell you if you need to find shore power to ensure that you have sufficient energy to keep your food safe.

If weather is not allowing solar to keep up, over some time frame, you may need to find a campground with electrical hookup for a night to fully recharge your battery.

Paul
Paul.

Thanks Paul. Great advice. These things aren’t cheap so thorough research is well worth it.

 

[bajaphile]

I find it interesting that it would be pulling ~100W of power... Especially for a Dometic in 2020. My cheap compressor fridge (Edgestar) only pulls about 65W (~5amp @ 12.5V). 100W is about how a gas absorption type fridge would pull to power the heating element. That is unacceptable for a compressor type fridge. Or, am I missing something? It sure looks like it says 8.9amp @ 12V in the manual...

 

[patrkbukly]

I installed the Dometic CFX28 in my Granby.
Pulls less than 1 amp.
My 2 shore batteries never fall below 75% running it all night and then charges right back to 100% when sun comes up.

Maybe check the specs on that model and see if the power draw is similar.

 

[Outnabout]

I installed the Dometic CFX28 in my Granby.
Pulls less than 1 amp.
My 2 shore batteries never fall below 75% running it all night and then charges right back to 100% when sun comes up.

Maybe check the specs on that model and see if the power draw is similar.

How do you find the capacity? How many days refrigerated food can you fit it the 28? Thanks

 

[bajaphile]

Checking back in... Looking at rated amperage is not correct for actual power draw. That is way too high for a compressor fridge.

Found this table below, which would make much more sense.... Still not very clear on what wattage it pulls when running. I would assume ~50W, or 4amp @ 12.5V.... below table would be if it runs at 1/4 hr on the hour (~1 ah/h).

 

[patrkbukly]

How do you find the capacity? How many days refrigerated food can you fit it the 28? Thanks

All good.
The amount of real perishibles is minimal as compared to the dry foods (potato flakes, rice, pasta, veggies, etc) that don't need to be in the frig.

 

[Outnabout]

Checking back in... Looking at rated amperage is not correct for actual power draw. That is way too high for a compressor fridge.

Found this table below, which would make much more sense.... Still not very clear on what wattage it pulls when running. I would assume ~50W, or 4amp @ 12.5V.... below table would be if it runs at 1/4 hr on the hour (~1 ah/h).

Sounds reasonable. Seems to be in the ballpark with other similar fridges.

 

[Vic Harder]

I have a 130L Truckfridge that also runs of an Indel-B compressor. The above data says 1.81AH/hr. On a given 70*F day, 10 hrs of running would be lots. That's 18AH. Which is about what ours uses, and that's with two additional fans (one inside the fridge, the other on the compressor coils).

 

[Outnabout]

I have a 130L Truckfridge that also runs of an Indel-B compressor. The above data says 1.81AH/hr. On a given 70*F day, 10 hrs of running would be lots. That's 18AH. Which is about what ours uses, and that's with two additional fans (one inside the fridge, the other on the compressor coils).

Thanks for the info. I think the take away here is to remember the fridge is not running 24/7. It seems that18ah a day should not, on a sunny day, be to hard to overcome.