Condensation - Roof Vents - windows

[cdbrow1]

I am thinking of ways to deal with condensation. One idea I had was to try and ventilate the camper a bit while driving to help dry it out (at least on warm and dry days).

Does anybody open a roof vent slightly (they seem fragile to me) or crack a window to let in air?

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

I am thinking of ways to deal with condensation. One idea I had was to try and ventilate the camper a bit while driving to help dry it out (at least on warm and dry days).

Does anybody open a roof vent slightly (they seem fragile to me) or crack a window to let in air?

I usually have the roof vent open just a bit and open the front slider a inch or so.
Just enough to get some air flow.
Frank

 

[Ramblinman]

I have had success with making time to pop the top (or keep the pop topped) open all the windows vents, and turn the furnace on for about 45 mins.

 

[longhorn1]

I just ordered an Eva-Dry 500 Mini-Dehumidifyer unit. There were very good reviews. No cord or batteries. I believe you re-charge the unit periodically. Had good reviews. Ordered through Amazon. jd

 

[cdbrow1]

I just ordered an Eva-Dry 500 Mini-Dehumidifyer unit. There were very good reviews. No cord or batteries. I believe you re-charge the unit periodically. Had good reviews. Ordered through Amazon. jd

I have several. They work fine, but I don;t think they can keep up with the condensation. I have one in my FWC at all times. The last two I bought have had issues - one "leaked" (dropped little pellets) and the other one had the heater fail so it could not be recharged. Just a heads up. For the cost they are fine.

 

[cdbrow1]

I have had success with making time to pop the top (or keep the pop topped) open all the windows vents, and turn the furnace on for about 45 mins

I do that when I can, but somedays I just want to hit the road and go.

 

[Flyfisher]

I crack the side window and open the top vent, but the vent seems to close itself while I am driving.
Gregg

 

[iowahiker]

We get lots of condensation with two people and all our cooking inside. We use the roof vents and side window as much as comfort allows meaning we do not chill inside the camper while cooking, reading, etc. We sleep with the roof vents and side window cracked always while relying on our sleeping bags and fleece sleeping bag liners for comfort. The roof vents, rear door, and side window are completely opened when we begin taking down the camper or lounging outside the camper late in the day. We wipe down the side fabric and roof aluminum frame before taking down the camper and store all damp towels (dish+wipe) in the cab. Towels can be spread out in the cab to dry while we are hiking or we hang them on cloths lines strung from the jack brackets at the end of the day when setting up the camper. We carry a large collection of towels to handle several days of rain while storing anything damp in the cab (rain suits, jackets, towels, boots...). We never drive with a roof vent open or the side window. Stickers on our camper say the vibration of an open window/vent will damage them while driving which I strongly agree with. We do get a lot of drying while driving with the camper closed unless the day is rainy (did I mention how large our towel collection is?).

 

[norcalhawk]

I recall reading something from Fantastic Fans regarding this issue. They say the vents should be closed during movement. If open, the dome will vibrate while driving and you may damage the plastic cover or mechanism. I learned this the hard way after cracking one of my vent domes. It wasn't closed tight and the vibration was enough to break the metal extension arm where it connects to the plastic on the inside.

I'll open the vents when I stop for any length of time. I also drive with the side (louvered) window open an inch or two....can't hurt.

 

[ckent323]

We have camped in the cold in the Sierra, along the Oregon Coast and in Yellowstone in early May. We got plenty of condensation overnight in these locations. If we are planning to pack up we towel everything down in the morning and run the heater until the camper gets warm and the water evaporates, Once dry we drop the top, buckle up and go on way.

If staying we still towel down and then open the windows and air everything out and let the warming day help out. Both approaches have worked just fine.

We take extra effort to avoid having to drop the top with the insides damp.

Never had to deal with warm and humid so not sure how to handle that situation.

I am considering buying a couple of a 12v clamp on fans to speed up the evaporation. But would probably mainly use if plugged into shore power.

 

[Ethergore]

Fantastic Fan says it is fine to drive with the vent open. They specifically recommend you open the vent completely. Here is the direct link so you have it from the horse's mouth:
http://www.fantasticvent.com/fan-tastic-vent-s-faq.html


Hope this helps!

 

[norcalhawk]

Seems like a lot of wind stress on the open vent cover, especially wide open. I'll continue to keep mine closed while driving on the highway. Just my own opinion.

 

[craig333]

Done it a few times, not deliberately. Seems to handle it fine.

 

[Freebird]

Not an expert here at all, but it seemed to me that high as possible R-value insulation in the walls and "double pane" (read insulating) windows are the most effective way to defeat condensation. In other words, at the purchase point?
Obviously the moisture load (# of people/critters inside) relationship is a big factor in condensation issues. This is known by experience from my tent camping days. I still remember it raining (dripping) inside the tent when very cold and dry outside, even with a screened window open. Big moisture load with very small tent.
Not fun.

 

[Ethergore]

Seems like a lot of wind stress on the open vent cover, especially wide open. I'll continue to keep mine closed while driving on the highway. Just my own opinion.

I guess it's better to be safe than sorry although there is a lifetime warranty. I wouldn't want it to ruin my trip.

Done it a few times, not deliberately. Seems to handle it fine.

Good to know. I guess it would be good to try it out on a dry trip so it wouldn't be detrimental if it broke.

 

[Ethergore]

Not an expert here at all, but it seemed to me that high as possible R-value insulation in the walls and "double pane" (read insulating) windows are the most effective way to defeat condensation. In other words, at the purchase point?
Obviously the moisture load (# of people/critters inside) relationship is a big factor in condensation issues. This is known by experience from my tent camping days. I still remember it raining (dripping) inside the tent when very cold and dry outside, even with a screened window open. Big moisture load with very small tent.
Not fun.

Most of our campers are just a giant soda can as far as insulation goes. I think the other thing to consider is, if I'm not mistaken, water is a byproduct of the combustion of propane. No matter what we all have to deal with some water when camping in the cold.

 

[alano]

If you are using the stock furnace, there is zero moisture load from burning propane as the products of combustion are vented to the outside. So unless the heat exchanger has a leak, all the moisture inside the camper is coming from the occupants and any wet gear they brought in or created inside the camper.

If you are burning propane inside the living space then you must be sure of enough venting so as not to die.

Venting in cold weather seems to be more of an art than a science. Sometimes we do a pretty good job and have minimal extra moisture and other times it rains inside. We towel and we air things out the next day as much as we are able. When we get home I try to leave the top up for several days with the windows all open to air things out. Obviously, those in more humid climates have to worry more about long term moisture effects, but since "It Never Rains In California", things dry out here pretty easily.

Alan

 

[Ethergore]

Alano- I didn't know the stock furnace was so good at getting rid of the moisture part of the equation. My camper didn't come with the furnace so I am using the wave 3 and mastering the art of venting. It definitely takes some time to figure out.

 

[Freebird]

Personally, I'm seeing the better balance (for me) being a little bit of ventilation and the addition of insulation.... As opposed to just accepting a tin can's functionality.
Foam insulation sheets are very cheap. It can be added as an "after thought" as a project. Every little bit helps.
Canned sealing foam (at least a couple kinds) will fill in/seal at the joints of the sheet insulation. Insulation does shrink the interior a bit, but for those who frequently use theirs in some very cold or damp climates it is certainly worth considering.
Windows and soft sides are more of a challenge, but doable with insulating fabrics and stratigically placed Velcro and temporary fabric attaching hardware.
Not everyone's cup 'o tea, but worth it in some situations.... or at least worth weighing the benefits vs cost/time/effort for some.

Warmer interior (comfort) and less fuel use to provide that comfort are the bonus beyond significantly dryer inside of the camper.

 

[Vento]

Seems like a vapor barrier sheet like they use on houses might help as well. Over the frame and behind the interior panels.