Could have been my son killed on Denali!

generubin

Electric Baja
Joined
Feb 4, 2009
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626
Location
Ventura, California
In 2011, Michael, my son of 17 at the time, was without my permission, signed up by his mom, for this climb of Mount Denali (4th most dangerous climb on earth) with this very guide (already known incompetent by me). Michael was signed up for this date on this very exact trip! Once I found out about it, with firm pressure and support from Anne for me to put a stop to it, I put an end to this insanity. It was Anne who steered me straight here, relentlessly supported my decision, and when I wavered under pressure, she wacked me upside of the head. Anne Morningstar, for whom I will forever be grateful for likely saving Michael's life. I'll love that gal forever, already do.

Damn, that was way too close!

Check out the story: http://www.nationalparkstraveler.com/2012/05/investigation-shows-denali-climbing-team-doomed-lack-equipment-poor-decision-making9913
 

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I bet your son was bummed at the time (prior to the trip), hopefully he realized quickly that papa wasn't just a kill joy!
 
Knew a guy who worked at the high elevation camp for a season many years ago. We had a friend (very capable mountaineer) summit a couple of years ago. Scary stuff happens on that mountain. Be very careful who you trust your life or your loved ones lives with. Glad your son is fine. Anne sounds like a level headed, forthright gem of a person. Good for both of you sticking to a hard decision. A great life lesson for your son, and indeed, for all of us. Thanks for sharing.
 
Wow, Gene. Gnarly story, but that's Denali. Guide sounds like an idjit (who cost the poor irishman his digits).
Good call to hold Michael back. I have a climbing buddy who recently accomplished the classic route, self-guided too. I know he was carrying the right gear for self rescue.
 
Wow, Gene. Gnarly story, but that's Denali. Guide sounds like an idjit (who cost the poor irishman his digits).
Good call to hold Michael back. I have a climbing buddy who recently accomplished the classic route, self-guided too. I know he was carrying the right gear for self rescue.



Hi Andy,
The guide cost the Swiss guy his life! This guide, Staehli now has serious lung cancer a year later, not likely to survive.
Gene
 
Here is another article on the blunders of this expedition: http://www.alaskadispatch.com/article/cold-hard-truth-alaska-guides-screw-ups-killed-somebody-mount-mckinley#comment-84091

Check out the comments at the bottom of the article.
 
I'm glad your son is still here, Gene.

WHY people feel the need to push the limits of Physics/Nature/Life is beyond me.

Definetely a question I would love to ask my own son.

Life is dangerous and short enough as it is without risking it all through "Extreme Sports".

All of this pain for a fleeting moment of selfish excitement....

it just doesn't compute here. Not at all.

be safe,

mtn
 

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