Death Valley Winter Storm Nov 2013

ETAV8R

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This is copied from another Expedition Portal where I originally posted it. I didn't take my rig so you won't see a camper. It was quite warm in the truck with a shell on the back.

A friend and I headed out Friday to stay at Panamint Springs Resort and then head into Saline on Saturday. We knew there were storm reports but had no idea what we would discover.

At Mojave the first signs of the storm which began earlier that day started to show.


Heading up the 395 it began to rain and then snow. Just as we turned to our intended goal of checking out some petros at Fossil Falls we came across a bad rollover accident. Further up the road another vehicle, looked like a two-wheel drive suv, was spun out and stuck at the median. Signs about a mile further said chains required. We pushed on to Olancha for fuel and on the way saw a couple truckers putting on chains. Little did anyone know the road would clear in about 2 miles. We stayed in 4HI till we got out of the slush.


Just a little chilly. We had to fix the sign so all the people going there would know where they were.




The familiar red cinder cone on the east side of 395 just north of Fossil Falls covered in snow.


After fueling up in Olancha we headed towards Panamint Springs Resort via 190. There was crazy wind and snow flurries as we climbed up the road to the south. Shortly after the snow on the road began to thicken we saw a plow coming towards us. This was good and bad. Meant the roads had been in a bad condition for a while but good in that they were out there working to keep it clear somewhat. We traveled on in the dark watching the snow hyperspeeding by us. There were a few cars on the road here and there. This was the first trip in a long time where I had opted to not take my own truck. Again this was good so I could check route and weather as we progressed towards the goal of Panamint Springs.

Close to the goal we saw another plow which meant there were at least two in the area working oppposite directions. It would be a long evening for them. We arrived at PSR and paid for the campsite then went to get some tasty chow at their diner. If you haven't had the pleasure of camping at PSR do yourself a favor and get out there. Car/Tent sites are $7.50 and you get access to the showers. It wasn't too busy when we got there. Many open spots. There was a jeep group from Nevada with RV's and their rigs in one section. As we walked up we saw a fullsize Ford with 37's and hardside camper. This would become important for trip planning soon thereafter.

Dinner was great and being a small dining area it is easy to listen to peoples stories of their travels. We sat across from a family of five enjoying pizza. Two guys who were discussing options were also nearby. After dinner we talked with the two guys. They had come across Towne Pass earlier in the day and were stuck in PSR even though they had rooms at the Inn at Furnace Creek. The Inn is not cheap so I can understand their frustration not being able to get across the pass back into Death Valley proper. Chains or 4x4 were required at the pass.

Later on I went to change at the shower area because it was still drizzling outside. I met the husband and son of the family of five. They were in the fullsize Ford mentioned earlier. They were down for the week from Oregon with Saline as their destination. The day before they stayed near Benton Hot Springs where it was already snowing. We arrived about the same time at PSR that evening. Before they got there they had attempted South Pass with no luck. He showed me pictures of the huge truck in the snow up to the top of the tires. He was out in front in drifts between knee/hip height. It was bad out there. Having the family in tow he made the wise decision to come to safe harbor. I told him we would talk more tomorrow.

In the morning at PSR do yourself another favor and get the all you can eat breakfast. It rocks. As our goal of reaching Saline seemed to be further out of reach we leisurely had breakfast and then decided to head up to check out Father Crowley Point. On the way there we passed the road to Darwin Falls and I said I'd never been there. Lets try out the trucks new suspension and tires. We took off on the road to Darwin. This place has some special treasures from goldfish to warped geology.

Cacti at PSR


View of Hunter Mountain and the Panamint Dunes


The road to Darwin


















Egyptians in DV


Truck for scale. We almost drove right by this twisted mass of rock.


Further down the road we came to a mill and pump station. From acquaintances who live in Darwin/Keeler this pumped water to Darwin in the past. Unfortunately someone was unable to pack out their wine bottle. This is why we can't have nice things.


 
When one belt is just not enough:










Telephone and water lines to Darwin


The road continues


Darwin Post Office and old fuel pumps out front


The dancehall, must be hopping on the weekends






Lets see if we can get to Saline


Always hot in DV




We tried...I walked out and the snow was easily up to my knees.






 
Interesting to see all that snow. We have yet to have a real snow storm here. Some real nice pics. Thanks for posting your trip report.
 
We must have been just a few hours apart going opposite directions. When I passed the road to Darwin I remember thinking you'd have to be nuts to try to get there in this storm. Now I kinda wish I'd checked it out. Thanks for the report.
 
A nice bit of cold air came south from the Great Basin. I heard that areas around Ely got six feet of snow. A good storm. I like it when we are reminded that ma nature is ultimately in charge. Thanks for the look at Death Valley!
 
Thanks for the thumbs up to Panamint Springs resort campground. We will check it out when we head there in March. I didn't realize that that pass into DV got that much snow. And, Ely? That is a lot of snow. Cool rock formation you saw. What kind of violent geologic upheaval caused all those convolutions?
 
When it snows like what you were dealing with at DV, the way into Saline is via Lippincott. I've had to do the Lippincott route due to snow at least a dozen or so times over the last 30 years. You start at Ubehebe to the Race Track and then down Lippincott into Saline. Highest elevation you hit is around 4,000 feet. Even if Race Track road is heavily snowed, it is rubbly rock so you always get traction. Lippincot drops so quickly that you are out of the snow within a mile of starting dwon the track.

About ten years ago, the entire Owens Valley was so snowed it was completely white from the Sierras to the Inyos. The night before even 395 through Olancha was chains only. I went in Lippincott to the Springs, and out South Pass with the Park Super Dick Martin (he had been Super Int. at Denali and Gates of the Arctic so he knew snow) and another ranger. They asked my help (no idea why? Actually I do know why ;) ) to free up a fellow who had been snowed in at South Pass Grapevine for 6 days! The dude that was stuck 6 days had no chains, we brought him some and adapted them to his truck. Plus we worked the path back and forth a bit smoothing down the snow. Considering they had radios and the Park Service would get us out somehow, I was pleased to join in. It takes chains front and rear and you can pretty much go anywhere. I always carry front and rear chains into Saline. We chained the guy up and sent him down to the Springs. Rest of the trip was uneventful, we reached Lee Flat just as darkness set in. Some other time I'll tell you the story of the Chinese tourists we came across that were following GPS and got stranded on Hunter Mountain Road in deep snow. South Pass in snow, if you are prepared and have chains etc. is rather safe. Just be sure to have food and fuel just in case you are stuck a few days.



Pictures from Race Track in snow, Dick Martin and the stuck van.
 

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We're headed there in March too. Can you give suggestions for 1st timers on where to camp, hike, etc.? We'll be in a four wheel drive w/ FWC although our friends may be in a EuroVan.

Thanks!

Kevin
 
Kevin,

DV and its environs is huge and limitless for places to visit and camp. Outside of the actual Park Service campgrounds, DV is one of the few parks that offer camping anywhere within certain limits. You have to check their website for the rules but it is something like at least some miles (5?) away from pavement and at least 1/4 mile from a water source. DV has nearly 500 miles of dirt roads within the park boundries. Depending on your preferences for "services", you can choose from developed to non-developed to wild camping.

March can be warm or cold, dry or snowy. The times have have seen the most snow and the greatest road damage have been in February and March.

My favorite place is Saline Valley but you need a few days there. The effort getting in and out is too much if you are only staying a night or two. The Eurovan I would not advise on any of the roads going in to Saline, but less cars have made it with some luck. Info here: http://forum.salinepreservation.org/?forum=162656

Butte Valley is another great place to visit and camp but no Eurovans. Great hiking everywhere in DV.
Here's a video of Butte Valley from a trip we did a couple of years ago: http://youtu.be/dMiVIjvddMs In this video we are entering from the west, via Panamint Valley through Goler Wash. Entering via the east side on Warm Springs road is much easier.


Along the main/easily passable routes and in March, and considering on your first trip you might like an overview. Consider camping at Mesquite Flats at the north end. Drive Titus Canyon (very easy dirt road even fro Eurovan), hit all the main sights as you travel south, camp on your way out at the very remote, but easy to get to "T" in the road near Saratoga Springs. Saratoga Springs is accessed by the Harry Wade road wihich is generally passable in any vehicle unless damaged by storms or flooded. About 1 mile from reaching the springs, there is a T in the road. Go left to springs or cross T for a great camp spot with amazing views of the dunes and mountains. Lots of great hiking here.

If it ends up being a warm March, the higher altitude camps such as Mohogany Flats are nice.

I am sure there are lots of folks who can make great recommendations. Had you been two 4wd trucks, no Eurovan, I would have written you a book on the subject of places to go.

I see you are coming from Idaho, but entering or leaving along 395 which is a bit out of your way takes you thorough incredible country, views of the east side of the Sierras, and small towns of Lone Pine, Independence and Bishop. Towns "that time forgot".
 
I think Saline is worth it for one or two nights depending on itinerary. I've gone there on a Friday and left on Sunday. Of course I would rather stay longer.
 
Thanks for the input! I'll pass it along and the Eurovan may not go but we can go as long as we want really. So if it's just us in a 4x4 it sounds like we have a lot more options!

Kevin
 
The folks with the Eurovan should not skip the trip based on their vehicle. DV area is absolutely a place of wonder regardless of which roads one travels. But if the Eurovan is cancelling for other reasons and you are there only with your 4x4, then yes, you will have many more options on places to go. One note, even though you have 4x4, bring a set of cable chains. Many of the DV roads get iced up and even the 4x4s are stuck without chains on the steeper portions. Saline for instance, you I always carry chains with me and I need to use them at times.
 
Ok, that video was pretty "extreme" for us. If we're going by ourselves, I doubt we'd try that road but it looks like an adventure for sure.

Any other insights/recommendations if we're on our own with 4x4, etc. is appreciated.

Oh, we'll probably have our dog with us too but I don't think that's an issue.

Kevin
 
Kevin,

The road in the video is Goler Wash which is much more extreme than 95% of the DV roads. On your own with a 4x4 I would recommend Titus Canyon and Race Track which are both very, very easy roads that most of the time even a 2wd can travel. There is no camping allowed along these roads but there is a simple campground just beyond the Race Track. Not far from Furnace Creek Ranch is Echo Canyon which is a very easy 4wd road along which you may camp anywhere you choose. If you are feeling brave at this campground you may choose to drop down the Lippincott Road, make a right when you reach Saline Valley road at the bottom, another right at Bat Rock Road and spend some time at the springs. These roads are unmarked but obvious.

At the south end of DV is a favorite of mine for beautiful scenery and a chance to be completely alone. This is, again, is camping at the T intersection, at the last left one makes while driving to Saratoga Springs. As you drive the pavement to the south end of DV, the pavement makes a sharo left but you continue on down the excellent dirt road. This way you may take in all the usual tourist sites down the length of DV, yet have a chance to spend the night compleletly alone.
 
Cool video gererubin. I've only driven through DV on the highway but would love to spend some time there. It's on the bucket list. Now to find some friends that have some time, desire, and rigs that could go. :rolleyes: Not sure I'd attempt it alone.
 
My second trip, first solo, to Death Valley was Titus Canyon-Furnace Creek-Eureka Dunes via Crankshaft Crossing. There were times I was nervous but in hindsight it was very easy. I've done way more since then and some of those trips were solo as well. Even with a car there is tons to see in Death Valley and it is well worth it.

That video is good. I've seen it before. Of course it was no where near the winter conditions shown in my photos. I've been lucky enough in my venturing to DV to have experienced it very hot, very cold, snow covered and snowing, and even twice with fog rolling through areas with Joshua trees. Tis a wonderful place.
 
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