Dogwood, a '75 10' Cabover Rebuild

WOW only -5 today, no excuses, must do the sidewalks tomorrow!

Progress the last two days. Working by myself had to do some creative things.

Like how to install the new end. After number of tries, attached the short guide piece to 3/4 plywood.
Put the long guides on the short guides. Taped 2 x 2 x 9" on bottom end of long guides. Use this to support the new panel on the drip piece. Taped the long guide on the inside to the panel. Removed the 2 x 2's. Installed bottom 3 screws on the long guide. Installed the two hydraulic's to panel. Used 41" 2 x 2 and sludge hammer to raise panel to height. Drivers side screwed top 2 screws to new panel.(cannot get to bottom screw yet) Will need to push top up just high enough to do it. Passenger Side same, but this took me ant least an hour to get it to move into position and hold it in position while I went inside the unit to insert the 2 screws.

Plan to use metal connector plates to attach top to my infills and new rough sized 2 1/4 x 2 1/4 roof joist to beef up the rotten ones.

Definitely not the quality of work you guys have been producing but hopefully will stand the test of time till I can afford Brian's crew to put a new top on. So far total cost under 200.00 on renovation. My friend has a stock of flashing Aluminum I can use, very light stuff but the price is right for this experiment project.

Hope this makes sense!!!!!!!!!!!

dkoug

Question- When I use the hydraulic's the front end go up but not the back end. Also lowering must have a guy putting weight on the front end to have it come down. Any suggestions???

This cat going to bed to die-lol
 

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WOW only -5 today, no excuses, must do the sidewalks tomorrow!

Progress the last two days. Working by myself had to do some creative things.

Like how to install the new end. After number of tries, attached the short guide piece to 3/4 plywood.
Put the long guides on the short guides. Taped 2 x 2 x 9" on bottom end of long guides. Use this to support the new panel on the drip piece. Taped the long guide on the inside to the panel. Removed the 2 x 2's. Installed bottom 3 screws on the long guide. Installed the two hydraulic's to panel. Used 41" 2 x 2 and sludge hammer to raise panel to height. Drivers side screwed top 2 screws to new panel.(cannot get to bottom screw yet) Will need to push top up just high enough to do it. Passenger Side same, but this took me ant least an hour to get it to move into position and hold it in position while I went inside the unit to insert the 2 screws.

Plan to use metal connector plates to attach top to my infills and new rough sized 2 1/4 x 2 1/4 roof joist to beef up the rotten ones.

Definitely not the quality of work you guys have been producing but hopefully will stand the test of time till I can afford Brian's crew to put a new top on. So far total cost under 200.00 on renovation. My friend has a stock of flashing Aluminum I can use, very light stuff but the price is right for this experiment project.

Hope this makes sense!!!!!!!!!!!

dkoug

Question- When I use the hydraulic's the front end go up but not the back end. Also lowering must have a guy putting weight on the front end to have it come down. Any suggestions???

This cat going to bed to die-lol
 
Well, removed my 69 NCO on January 1, 2013 in the snow for future work.

Got the rotten top front replaced, Not the quality I keep seeing on this site but I'm pleased.

It's been few days and my body and sleep are back in condition.

Hope the pictures are of some value.

dkoug
 

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More pictures of renovation
 

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More pictures
 

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I'm hoping you placed a sufficient quantity of top grade sealant behind those door sweeps....and under that seam in the center....and around the edges, behind the drip gutter
 
I'm hoping you placed a sufficient quantity of top grade sealant behind those door sweeps....and under that seam in the center....and around the edges, behind the drip gutter


Rusty

Used the good old window glazing (comes in rolls) and under the roof aluminum the new self stick-um foam. The top middle strip has the same foam with stickum. The top piece of aluminum over laps the bottom by a good amount. (like shingling a roof)

Your might be right on the door stop, did not use any thing on them. The rubber part seems to seal around the screws.

My friend's shop is a commercial door manufacturing shop, while he is in Mexico and during the 7 days his crew had off over the holiday's I enjoyed the heat verses the snow outside- lol Gave me a head start verses waiting for warm weather in the spring (May).

Note- picture of material that came with the unit to seal the top to the bottom.
 

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