Perplexed. 2011 FWC Eagle. 160 W panel on roof, 100 W portable. Battleborn 100AH LiFePo4 battery 12V. Victron 100-20 controller. Blue Seas MM ACR, Isotherm DC fridge, Fantastic fan (with speed mod). Heater. LED Lights and USB plugs. Factory Iota. Renogy 1000 W inverter (new... not yet used)
I believe I have a fault (my wife will agree) somewhere. I had this problem last year on a trip across Labrador and Newfoundland with my homemade LiFePo4 battery (which I blamed for the problem... but now not likely). I bought a new Battleborn battery. When installed same issue.
I am definitely not in my comfort zone with electrics though I tend to try and a little knowledge can be dangerous. Either there is a fault somewhere or I have done something wrong (my fault).
Everything is the same as when I had 2 AGM batteries when all worked fine except I upgraded to the Victron100-20 when I switched from AGM to Lithium. I had installed a new thermostat for the furnace but that is just 2 wire plug. I installed the Isotherm 65 fridge 3 years ago and it has run perfectly.
I will attach a sketch of how I wired everything in the battery box as well as a screen shot of the Victron APP. I do not feel the need to attach the truck to camper electrically with the plug as the solar should be enough for my needs but don't mind doing so.
(ACR switch settings?).
What happens:
Pull down the main electric knob to "ON". APP shows Battery at 14 Volts Panel at 20 V 2 Watts. As soon As I turn on fridge or Fantastic fan the APP shows the battery drop to 7 Volts. The CO alarm starts to chirp. Fan slowly dies. Fridge never cools. This is exactly what happened with my DIY battery so I thought it had to be my build but now I see it is something else. (The other "sign" was I plugged in an eBike battery charger 240W... into the inverter and turned on the inverter.... the fault alarm went off... immediately turned off the inverter).
I checked the breakers and clear snapped each, all OK. No fuses are burned out. (BTW... how to know what each is to?) LED lights work. I pulled the Iota out and checked all connections in the back... all seem tight.
How does one chase down a fault? (I have a Fluke meter).
I believe I have a fault (my wife will agree) somewhere. I had this problem last year on a trip across Labrador and Newfoundland with my homemade LiFePo4 battery (which I blamed for the problem... but now not likely). I bought a new Battleborn battery. When installed same issue.
I am definitely not in my comfort zone with electrics though I tend to try and a little knowledge can be dangerous. Either there is a fault somewhere or I have done something wrong (my fault).
Everything is the same as when I had 2 AGM batteries when all worked fine except I upgraded to the Victron100-20 when I switched from AGM to Lithium. I had installed a new thermostat for the furnace but that is just 2 wire plug. I installed the Isotherm 65 fridge 3 years ago and it has run perfectly.
I will attach a sketch of how I wired everything in the battery box as well as a screen shot of the Victron APP. I do not feel the need to attach the truck to camper electrically with the plug as the solar should be enough for my needs but don't mind doing so.
(ACR switch settings?).
What happens:
Pull down the main electric knob to "ON". APP shows Battery at 14 Volts Panel at 20 V 2 Watts. As soon As I turn on fridge or Fantastic fan the APP shows the battery drop to 7 Volts. The CO alarm starts to chirp. Fan slowly dies. Fridge never cools. This is exactly what happened with my DIY battery so I thought it had to be my build but now I see it is something else. (The other "sign" was I plugged in an eBike battery charger 240W... into the inverter and turned on the inverter.... the fault alarm went off... immediately turned off the inverter).
I checked the breakers and clear snapped each, all OK. No fuses are burned out. (BTW... how to know what each is to?) LED lights work. I pulled the Iota out and checked all connections in the back... all seem tight.
How does one chase down a fault? (I have a Fluke meter).