Engel 12 volt refrigerator in 1966 8' NCO

[Denver Alaskan]

Thanks Denver - great thread. Many ideas for my 1974 CO.

Noteven: Glad you found some ideas in my 2015 thread. This 2016 thread describes further improvements to my 1966 8' NCO Alaskan:

http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/13817-2016-improvements-to-1966-8%E2%80%99-nco/

Enjoy!

 

[noteven]

Hi Denver Alaskan - do you remember where you found the LED ceiling lights?

Are they switched at the fixture?

Thanks

 

[Denver Alaskan]

Hi Denver Alaskan - do you remember where you found the LED ceiling lights? Are they switched at the fixture? Thanks.

Noteven:

I purchased the 6-3/4" diameter LED ceiling light from Vintage Trailer Supply:

https://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/LED-6-3-4-Dome-Light-p/vts-812.htm

It has an ON-OFF switch on the fixture, which is really convenient. When turned on, amp draw is a minimal 0.21 amps. A nearly identical LED light is slightly smaller at 5-1/2" diameter:

https://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/LED-5-1-2-Dome-Light-p/vts-645.htm

These are really nice LED ceiling lights.

 

[noteven]

Thank you Denver

At 6’ almost 2 I clonk my noggin constantly on the vintage 12v 110v fixtures

I just roared out and measured- the 6-3/4” is a perfect replacement to cover the non patina area left by the original fixture! Yay

 

[wagoneer]

[SIZE=18pt]Blue Sky Sun Charger 30 PWM controller [/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]I determined the Blue Sky Energy Sun Charger 30 Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) solar charge controller would be adequate for my limited purposes. A slightly more efficient 30 ampere Maximum Power Point Tracking (MPPT) controller was available for $99 more, but I could get far more additional charging amperage by adding a third SF-100 watt solar panel for $155 plus shipping than I could tweak out of the two existing SF-100 watt solar panels with the slightly better MPPT controller. So I bought the more basic PWM controller from AM Solar and added a temperature compensation sensor for $30. So far I haven’t needed the third solar panel. [/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]The Sun Charger 30 is mounted inside the Alaskan below the catalytic heater on a wood panel that covers the large hole where the old propane furnace was installed. The controller is mounted below the catalytic heater because the heater must be installed a minimum of 4” above the floor, which left no room above it for the controller. The controller, by contrast, could be mounted anywhere. I screwed the controller to the panel then wired it before screwing the panel onto the lower right rear of the Alaskan interior. The heater sticks out further from the panel and thus protect the controller. The controller is easily readable when standing outside the Alaskan with the door open, which occurs whenever one enters or exits the Alaskan. If necessary, it can also be read indoors by getting down on one’s knees. For more details on and specifications for the controller, please visit AM Solar’s web site[/SIZE]

Hey Denver where did you mount the wave 3 heater I am in conflict about where the safest spot could be on my 1976 cabover

 

[Denver Alaskan]

Hey Denver where did you mount the wave 3 heater? I am in conflict about where the safest spot could be on my 1976 cabover

wagoneer:

I mounted the Wave 3 catalytic heater in the same place the original Hydra-Flame furnace was located in my 8' NCO, on the lower right hand wall just inside the rear door. Go to the very first post in this thread and click on the two photos there to enlarge each. The left photo shows the original Hydra-Flame furnace on the right, just inside the rear door which is opened. The right photo shows the Wave 3 mounted on a removable stained panel that covers the large hole which remained after the Hydra-Flame furnace was taken out.

The rear views of my Alaskan shows the Hydra-Flame chimney vent to the right of the rear door. I removed the metal chimney inside but left the exterior vent in place as the opening to run the solar panel wires through from the roof to the controller. The old furnace vent also allows fresh air to come inside the Alaskan for combustion. I always crack my roof vent whenever I light up the Wave 3.

This heater location is nice because, being low, it creates a wall of warm air running up along the rear doors, where cold air might enter. It also warms the coldest air on the floor, and is far enough away from the opposite wall so as not to scorch it .I mounted a towel rack on the upper rear door above the window to dry wet towels, socks, and clothes in the warm convection air produced by the Wave 3. The towel rack is also used as a handle to pull to top rear door closed.

I never hang any long clothes on the closet door knobs directly above the Wave 3 when it is lit, to prevent them from unexpectedly dropping down right in front of the glowingly hot catalytic pad and possibly catching on fire. For drying clothes, I thought about stretching a fabric net hammock across the narrow isle from the closet to the stove, but imagined it would usually be in the way and a pain to get around when exiting or entering, so never did it.

If the Alaskan factory installed the furnace on the left hand wall for your year of production, then just mount a Wave 3 on a sturdy panel in that location. A close-to-the-floor furnace or heater is a safe location because it generally is out of the way of combustibles. Moreover, its low location helps circulate the warm air throughout the Alaskan through convection.

 

[JoeKan]

This is exactly what I'm wanting to do to my 67 NCO. Thanks for explaining this and especially for the pictures.

 

[popRoid]

Well done and when my Alaskan needs a refurb I'll be sure to remember how you went about it. Thanks for posting.

 

[karsonb]

Thank you for the detailed postings of your upgrades! I hope to pick up 1970 NCO, 8’ very similar to yours. Will probably do some,thing along the lines of what you have done. Very nice work!

 

[Denver Alaskan]

JoeKan, popRoid and karsonb:

You are all welcome! Glad to share and explain my improvements. They serve me well and hopefully may serve others well as well.

Right now my body and paint guy is making minor repairs to, then will blast and paint, a vintage 8' long, 7' wide utility bed, brand unknown. It has low sides (19-1/2" high interior walls), the same height as from the bottom to the side wings on my 1966 8' NCO Alaskan. This low height allows the Alaskan to snuggle right into the utility box. I'll gain secure one-foot-deep outside storage along both lower sides of the Alaskan.

My 4" diameter taillights and backup lights will be new LED models for brighter signals and lighting to the rear. I'll replace the small propane bottles with two 20-pound common propane bottles that can be swapped out for full ones at most any grocery store. Once the refreshed utility box is ready, I'll begin to document its improvements and installation on my 1992 Dodge W250 truck. Hope to get this done over the next few months, so don't touch that dial: stay tuned.

 

[Keith in Co]

“I mounted the Wave 3 catalytic heater in the same place the original Hydra-Flame furnace was located in my 8' NCO, on the lower right hand wall just inside the rear door.”


I mounted my Wave 3 in the same location in my 8’ NCO Try to be careful when getting clothes from the closet that nothing falls onto the heater. I keep the vent window open above the bed for oxygen, and leakage around the doors provides good circulation. Almost always keep on low setting. Works great. Use both CO2 and fire detectors.

Also hung a clothes line using paracord between the front and rear upper hydraulic jack bolts on the right side over the closet/cooler area.

I’m looking for an electric refrigerator which is taller than the Engle SR70F-U1. Would like more capacity without doing major surgery to the cabinetry, although the sloping panel behind the cooler is negotiable. Any tips would be appreciated.

 

[Denver Alaskan]

Keith:

Thanks for the suggestion about taking clothes out of the closet, but I have none in there. I keep my clothes in soft suitcases at the very front of my bed in the Alaskan. I run the 10 gauge cable from the solar panels through the old vent on the rear end for the removed furnace, which remains open to the outdoors and provides plenty of incoming air. Similar to you, I crack open the roof vent when running the catalytic heater.

I looked into buying a taller compressor refrigerator, but the angled back of the cabinet would have pushed them out further into the hallway, so I determined my Engel SB 70F was the tallest I could install that would mount flush to the cabinet and not stick out into the hallway. The trick is finding a taller but not-as-deep compressor refrigerator, and nothing manufactured 5 years ago fit that profile, but perhaps that has changed as of today. Best wishes on your search.

Like your taste in old Dodge trucks. My first generation 1992 W250 CTD and 1947 WDX Power Wagon are a matched number of years older than your Cummins and M37. But I only tow a 1944 1/4-ton jeep behind my Dodge with the Alaskan and stay in the Alaskan outside of Nathrop, CO when jeeping along the Collegiate Range.

Are you planning on attending the Mountain West Overland Expo at Loveland, CO from August 28-30 this year? Looks like a fun event.

 

[Keith in Co]

I figure I could remove the sloped back of the cabinet and square it off to accommodate a taller/deeper refrigerator.

I deleted the porch light, and ran my 8g solar cables in there. Then hung an LED light off the roof rack (see pict attached) which is much brighter than I expected (probably visible from space.) Capped off the old heater vent opening and plumbed in a QD to use an external bbq tank if I want, along with a port for cables to the DC/DC charger which allows my solar panels to also charge my truck batteries.

Coincidently, I used to own a ‘47 WDX too, and now have a ‘91 W250 CTD that I removed the body from and am installing ‘55 Power Wagon sheet metal on.

Yes, I plan to attend the Overland Expo in Ft Collins at the end of August, and hope to have my Alaskan there too.

 

[Rdy2Roam]

like the interior lights you installed, might have to upgrade and try them out. will look much nicer then the plastic ones.