External screws?

[Tomas Tierra]

last time I tried replacing the clamps on the old rig I broke the first two screws and decided the clamps were still working, left well enough alone...I do carry extra clamps now though. not sure what I would do out in the bush if one broke, slow down I guess ....that would suck. (slowing down)

I guess my question would be, what to do with the broken screw sites?? I'm a little hesitant to start drilling them out..

 

[DesertDon]

You may find that after removing the clamp that a bit of the screw is above the siding. I have used Vise Grips to clamp on to the screw and back it out. Otherwise you would have to drill the screw and use an Ease Out to back out the screw.

 

[benburnett]

clamps

Desert Don's post sums it up.

Another way also is that sometimes you can move the clamp over just enough to miss the old screws and still catch the latch on the roof ok.

I have seen this done before.

 

[Coop]

Rusting Roof Latches And Fittings

RUSTING ROOF CLAMPS AND FITTINGS

There is one snag with putting any kind of Powder Coat, paint or plating on the roof clamps, and that is that there is hard metal to metal contact, especially where the hook and latch connect, that will probably eventually abrade/cause the paint/plating to fail, which will allow corrosion to set in again and work it’s way under the coating until it breaks down and all you got is more rust! This may/could take one helluva’ long time, so maybe it’s really a non-issue. Get them Powder Coated or paint them with a good rust inhibitor/prevention paint and …no worries!
Another option would be to get them Tin, Copper or Chrome plated.
The harder chrome would probably crack and give way at the contact surfaces before the tin or copper, but again…in who’s lifetime?
With Powder Coat, paint or chrome, if a little high tack lubricant/grease is kept on the contact surfaces, they may never even wear down anyway? And if they do, the lube will act as a moisture barrier.

There is another option that comes in an …aerosol can. It’s called Boeshield T-9.
It was developed by Boeing Aviation as a corrosion inhibitor for aircraft fittings and components. It’s a spray-on lubricant/protectant. Check it out at: http://boeshield.com/index.htm and/or
http://www.theruststore.com/Boeshield-T-9-12-oz-Aerosol-P3C4.aspx.

Another suggestion for the threads on the hook piece. Or any exposed threads for that matter. Coat the entire length of threaded shank, and put some in the threaded sleeve as well, with Never-Seize Compound or Permatex Anti-Seize Compound (paste in tube, not aerosol can). Then put the nut on and screw the lot together, and adjust. These are graphite based hi-temp, extreme pressure lubes that are virtually impervious to exposure and the elements (be it 122 deg’ in Death Valley or salt laden fogs/dew at Pismo Beach) that will prevent the threads, exposed or otherwise from ever rusting, galling or seizing up. They’ll always turn with just the fingers. Good luck in getting the damn stuff off your hands and tools!!!
As a side note…another common use for the anti-seize compounds is as an anti-galling coating on Stainless Steel fastener threads to prevent thread seizure in other stainless steel, especially Aluminum, or any other metal. It's important to note though that with the anti-seize on the/any threads you usually want to adjust/reduce tightening torque because friction is greatly reduced and it's possible to over-tighten a fastener. Usually not a real issue with small fasteners unless it's a critical application!

coopcoyote

 

[chnlisle]

I've used this stuff in a marine environment and it works well but it is sticky.

 

[Phil]

New Screws

I replaced all of my external and interior screws with Stainless steel. I put a dab of RTV silicone in all the holes before putting the new ones in. and they look good to.