Extra Gas Line on a Hawk?

Lighthawk

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I've been doing some poking around my propane supply lines, adding a Tee for a Wave 3 heater :) underneath the cabinet housing the furnace. I then got curious and followed main gas supply up to where it splits inside the stove.

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I traced the line from the propane box up to the stove where it splits four ways:
  • Supply from tank- marked with red tape
  • Stove - front
  • Refer - exits rear
  • pre-plumb for hot water? - goes right toward sink
I followed the gas line behind the drawers, under the sink and to the drivers front side behind the status monitor. The line seems to end there with a flare nut. This photo is looking down (holding my p&s camera in places my big head won't fit ;) )

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Question: Is this a pre-plumbed line for future hot water option? I assume there's a plug in that flare nut since it's hooked up at the manifold. I should also say this is a 2008 Hawk w/o hot water. I am the second owner.
 
I've been doing some poking around my propane supply lines, adding a Tee for a Wave 3 heater
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underneath the cabinet housing the furnace. I then got curious and followed main gas supply up to where it splits inside the stove.
Question: Is this a pre-plumbed line for future hot water option? I assume there's a plug in that flare nut since it's hooked up at the manifold. I should also say this is a 2008 Hawk w/o hot water. I am the second owner.

Andy -
I did the same thing last year -- for the same reason (except for Wave 6), and I came to the same conclusion: option for water heater. Must be -- I don't have a water heater either.

I pulled/removed that extra copper line and attached a line (rubber) for my Wave to the freed-up Tee under the stove.
 
I would be inclined to add a grommet in the stove where the copper tube passes through. A few years of vibration might wear on it.
A piece of rubber hose can be slit and used, providing it doesn't get too hot.

DR
 
I would be inclined to add a grommet in the stove where the copper tube passes through. A few years of vibration might wear on it.
Mine had a short piece of Tygon-like tubing around the copper where it passes through -- to quiet the rattle as much as wear-resistance, I bet.
 
I pulled/removed that extra copper line and attached a line (rubber) for my Wave to the freed-up Tee under the stove.


Did you use a quick disconnect or hook up the rubber hose permanently?
We would like to be able to stow the Wave while traveling, yet be able to hook up it quick in camp.
 
Did you use a quick disconnect or hook up the rubber hose permanently?
We would like to be able to stow the Wave while traveling, yet be able to hook up it quick in camp.

The upstream-end of the hose is permanently connected to that under-stove Tee (or "Cross", I guess I should say), but the "business-end" terminates in a quick disconnect (female) which mates with a quick disconnect (male) that I adapted to/on the Wave.
I also have a shut-off valve just upstream of the quick disconnect on the hose. This is just in case the quick disconnect leaked for some reason when disconnected/un-mated -- "belt and suspenders". LP gas pressure downstream of the regulator is very low -- like, 0.4 psi -- so it's unlikely that the quick disconnect would leak...so I'm being (uncharacteristically) irrationally cautious!
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I think somebody on this forum said that use of quick disconnects for propane in an RV is not allowed by code (or something like that)
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...so please don't turn me in.
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...so please don't turn me in.
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Calling all cars! Car 54, where are you?? :LOL:


Your install is exactly what I was thinking. The shutoff is a good idea too.
As far as legality is concerned, I had read a post by XPMarc saying something about no disconnects in RV's. But when I go online, I see they sell them. What gives?

quick disconnect
 
As far as legality is concerned, I had read a post by XPMarc saying something about no disconnects in RV's. But when I go online, I see they sell them. What gives?

Yeah, I think it was Marc's post that I'm remembering, too. So, if true, who knows -- it may only apply to OEM work like his business and not to individuals/after-market.
I'm not worried about it. I figure that exploding in a ball of flame will be sufficient punishment for my crime.
 
Did you use a quick disconnect or hook up the rubber hose permanently?
We would like to be able to stow the Wave while traveling, yet be able to hook up it quick in camp.



My rubber hose is a more permanent connection but long enough so that when I travel it just stores on its' feet under the cabinet and I just move it out to use. Always connected, never a hassle.
 
I took my truck/camper to a propane dealer (in TX) to ask about having them install a flex hose w/ or w/o disconnects in the living space. They refused, citing illegality. I went home and did it anyway, hooking up a little buddy.

I have since relented, and gone back to code-worthy gas plumbing. I love my wife too much...
 
I have since relented, and gone back to code-worthy gas plumbing. I love my wife too much...


If it is illegal it must be so for a good reason. I wouldn't do it.

Some say the "code" was written in blood. I believe them.

Doing something against code in a system as critical as a propane system might just prove to be a poor decision down the road.
 
If it is illegal it must be so for a good reason.

There's probably a reason, but I can't see it being based on physics or chemistry -- i.e., it must not be a physical reason.

A rubber hose connecting the portable heater to the camper internal propane network (with a hose-barb at each end of the hose) is less likely to leak than a system of copper tubing and brass fittings.
The rubber hose itself will not spring a leak -- at least, not against the 0.4psi pressure downstream of the propane regulator. And the seal of the hose to the hose barb is a perfect seal (at these pressures) because the hose is pliable and conforms itself to the ridges/barbs of the hose-barb -- unlike metal-to-metal fittings, which have to be seated and tightened correctly to work.
Really, the pressure is so low that a hose made of Saran Wrap and duct tape might be strong enough to contain it (but I wouldn't advise trying it).
A propane dealer (owner/manager) sold me the parts (rubber hose, shut-off valve and a couple of adapting fittings), and he knew where/how I was going to use them. I asked the Propane Guy, "Do I need a hose clamp to secure the hose to the hose-barb?" Propane Guy: "No, it can't pop come off from the tiny pressure of the propane...in fact, if you want to remove it you'll probably have to cut it off".

As for the use of quick-disconnects, their typical use is much higher pressures than found in low-pressure propane, so I can't see how those would leak either (nevertheless, I added a shut-off valve upstream because there was no downside to doing so.)

Then why do RVs come with a propane detector? Probably in case a stove burner may not get turned off all the way....or a metal fitting might not be tightened properly and travel flexing/vibration could cause it to start leaking. Rigid tubing/fittings are more prone to loosening from vibration/torquing than flexible rubber.

On the other hand...if someone doesn't understand this stuff themselves then they should definitely pay a professional to do it and be bound by those rules.

From a practical standpoint, a "portable" radiant heater (like the Buddy or Wave) that was rigidly mounted and couldn't be pointed where I wanted the heat most wouldn't be very useful (to me) in such a small space.

If it is illegal it must be so for a good reason.

That's why I rarely exceed the speed limit -- because auto accidents are the biggest cause of accidental death.
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If it is illegal it must be so for a good reason.



Perhaps but in Chicago a lot of things were against code to better serve union laborers. Same in the railroad industry.
 
Freedom is all about getting to make your own decisions.

My girlfriend is a Safety Officer for a large corporation. She is the one who constantly tells me that the Safety Code (in this instance it's the ES&H Safety Code) is written in blood.

Everyday people make decisions to circumvent safety concerns.

That is absolutely your right to do so.

It's no different that the manufacturers GVWR issue......some folks adhere to it.....some folks think its a bunch of hooey.
 

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