Eyebolt Source

bsharp007

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 4, 2008
Messages
250
Location
NorCal
Well it looks like I sheared off the right front eyebolt. Anyone know a source for these eyebolts?? Fortunately it looks like the damage was confined to the bolt only. Already tried OSH no l 2011-06-18 18.49.40.jpguck.
 
What you have there is available from Mcmaster.com The bolt is called a "Belt Bolt" and the nut, assuming it isn't salvageable, is called an "Eye Nut". Search those terms on their page and you'll find what you need.
 
Most hardware stores have them.

I have seen them at our local OSH.

Ask the customer service rep. where to find quick links and aluminum turnbuckles.

They are usually in that section, not the nuts & bolts section.

Sometimes they are called an "elevator bolt".

BUT, since you are replacing it, you might as well upgrade to a better bolt anyway.

We have at FWC !

You can usually just get a better bolt with a washer on top instead.

Just bring the eye nut portion and find a good bolt that is the right length and has the right threads to fit in the eye nut.

You can always get a few different lengths to see what is the best size once it is installed through the wood portion of the camper base.

I would attached pictures of the new bolts, eye nuts, washer, and aluminum reinforcement plate we are using these days, but I can't log into my work computer right now. Arg ! I will post some pics Monday if that is not too late.

Good luck on the project.


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cummins_mike did a great job on his repair.

I don't think his eye bolt will be going anywhere from here on out.

Attached are some pictures of what we are using now on all of the new FWC's.

(no more elevator bolt)

We are using a good solid bolt with the aluminum reinforcement plates on the top.

Back in the days the wood in the camper base was the weak point.

Then when we added the aluminum reinforcement plates, the basic elevator bolt became the weak point.

Now that we are using a real bolt and the plate I hope the occasional eye bolt problems will become a thing of the past.

On all of the new FWC's we are also making for easier access to the eye bolts too !

:)



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Thanks Stan, but that's eactly the same one I broke. Apparently my 08 FWC has the "new" setup and I can't find it locally at any of the local hardware stores. My camper is still under warrenty.
Will

Here is the post I made on tearing out my eye bolt and how I reinforced the mounts and used Grade 8 bolts.

Eye bolt repair
 
Hey Will

By looking at the first picture you posted, your camper has the older elevator bolt that was not as strong.

We didn't upgrade to these newer bolts until the past few months.

The bolts might look the same from a distance, but the elevator bolt and the newer "real" style bolt are different creatures. Similar looking, but very different in strength.

Don't be fooled about the bolt head size. The newer bolts we are using have a smaller head on them, but the head of the bolt is not a weak point. On all of the older elevator bolts I have seen break, the bolt always broke lower down on the threaded portion.

The new bolts are stronger all around.

If you want to shoot me a quick e-mail to ... stan@fourwh.com

Just let me know your name and mailing address and I can drop a couple of the newer bolts in the mail for you.

Sound good ?

Thanks so much

Stan


_______________________________________________


Thanks Stan, but that's eactly the same one I broke. Apparently my 08 FWC has the "new" setup and I can't find it locally at any of the local hardware stores. My camper is still under warrenty.
Will
 

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Sounds good, thanks Stan.

Will

Hey Will

By looking at the first picture you posted, your camper has the older elevator bolt that was not as strong.

We didn't upgrade to these newer bolts until the past few months.

The bolts might look the same from a distance, but the elevator bolt and the newer "real" style bolt are different creatures. Similar looking, but very different in strength.

Don't be fooled about the bolt head size. The newer bolts we are using have a smaller head on them, but the head of the bolt is not a weak point. On all of the older elevator bolts I have seen break, the bolt always broke lower down on the threaded portion.

The new bolts are stronger all around.

If you want to shoot me a quick e-mail to ... stan@fourwh.com

Just let me know your name and mailing address and I can drop a couple of the newer bolts in the mail for you.

Sound good ?

Thanks so much

Stan


_______________________________________________
 
Most hardware stores have them.

I have seen them at our local OSH.

Ask the customer service rep. where to find quick links and aluminum turnbuckles.

They are usually in that section, not the nuts & bolts section.

Sometimes they are called an "elevator bolt".

BUT, since you are replacing it, you might as well upgrade to a better bolt anyway.

We have at FWC !

You can usually just get a better bolt with a washer on top instead.

Just bring the eye nut portion and find a good bolt that is the right length and has the right threads to fit in the eye nut.

You can always get a few different lengths to see what is the best size once it is installed through the wood portion of the camper base.

I would attached pictures of the new bolts, eye nuts, washer, and aluminum reinforcement plate we are using these days, but I can't log into my work computer right now. Arg ! I will post some pics Monday if that is not too late.

Good luck on the project.


.


.
 
Hay Stan .........

I've owned my camper for over a couple years now, and have to admit the first two years were problem free, but now I seem to have made up for lost time.

First of all, I was up at 11,000 feet and noticed my camper had come loose and was moving around the back of the truck. One of the tie-down bolts had pulled out of the wood frame and two others were ready to go. I was able to "Jerry-rig" the unit to get it off the hill. Now it is in the garage and I am revamping the whole tie down system.

What I don't understand is the company prides itself on it's strong, aluminum frames, why then are the tie-downs not attached in some way to the metal frames? The plywood is just not nearly as strong. I admit I take the unit on roads I probably shouldn't but I did my homework and thought your unit would fit my needs, in fact I drove 2,500 miles to pick it up and although it wasn't new (2007 Keystone) it had never been used. I think maybe in the future you should, at least do what I intend to do and add a support of a metal strip running the length of the main camper. In fact, I'm thinking about 3/16 steel on top by the bench seat and underneath where the old tie downs were, and bolt them together. I'm really concerned about it happening again. I'm thinking that should cure the problem.

Maybe for future models you can up-grade the whole tie down system?
 
Stan,

Are the new bolts Grade 8's? If not I can't see how they would be any stronger.
 
Looking at the pics, they look like standard carriage bolts. They are likely graded to about Gr. 3. If you look at my link above about the repair I did, you will see those are Gr. 8 bolts. Definitely not worried about those breaking.

I do agree that I was quite surprised that the mounting points did not go into anything other than wood. Actually that the whole floor pack is just wood and not framed with aluminum like the walls. My guess is it allows the camper to flex but to me, a period of time flexing, things will fail.

That said, there are still a ton of older models still hitting the trails so something must be working.
cool.gif
 
Mine pulled out too and I used aluminum backing plates to reinforce the new bolts. I thought FWC mentioned they are using plates on the newer models now but I'm not 100% on that.
 
The older FWC's did not have the aluminum backing plates we are using now.

All of the new FWC's have the aluminum backing plates installed.

:)

After installing the aluminum backing plates, the old style elevator bolts we were using became the weak point.

It was rare for the camper eye nut to snap off, but it happened from time to time.

Now that we are using the aluminum backing plates and the stronger bolts, I have not heard of any probelms.

So far, so good.

:)


This customer has a good description on an easy fix ...

EYE BOLT REPAIR THREAD



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  • Eye Nut # 15.JPG
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.......Now that we are using the aluminum backing plates and the stronger bolts, I have not heard of any probelms.

So far, so good.

********

That's good to hear.

I think I'm going to run a 3/16 angle iron on the outside (on both sides) under the overhang and a 3/16 X 3" flat iron on the inside (where ever I can) and drill up and bolt the two together. Topped-off with 1/2 forged steel eye-bolts. Know it's over-kill but will sleep better at 11,000 ft.

I have to think of a way to bolt the tailgate down so the tail of the Keystone doesn't move. I think that is what is causing the release mechanism in my Thetford toilet to jam-up. I had a piece fabricated to add a small bumper, scissor steps and a holder for my 5 gal. water and diesel jerry-can's. I thought that would be enough weight to hold the tail-gate down ............. but, maybe not. I'm thinking that is what is causing my flushing problems.

Any ideas?

Thanks for the photo's.

Fustini
 
The older FWC's did not have the aluminum backing plates we are using now.

All of the new FWC's have the aluminum backing plates installed.



What year did FWC add the metal backing? I have an '08.
 
After reading about other's bolt failures I decided to replace mine. Glad I did because both front bolts were bent. I got 1.5 inch grade 8's for 75 cents apiece at Lowes. I would suggest that everyone replace the stock bolts no matter how old their camper is. I could be wrong but the new "stronger" bolts 4wheel is using look like standard hardware grade to me. I looked at Fastenal's website and couldn't find any grade 8's bolts in that style. 3 bucks and an hours work is very cheap insurance.
 
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