Fleet cab over bed floor replacement

[Oddball]

Hello this is my first post, I have an 85 Fleet that im trying to replace the cab over bed floor on. The p/o removed the old rotted particle board floor out, my question is should I use marine plywood or pressure treated plywood? Also it looks pretty hard to just wrestle a new floor back in. I'm thinking of cutting it in sections to get it back in and then bracing the floor, anybody done this and have ideas or tips? Thanks

Robert

 

[BenG]

try this link
http://www.wanderthe...p?showtopic=530

 

[Oddball]

Link isn't working Ill try a different browser, I'm using Firefox

 

[BLM]

Link isn't working Ill try a different browser, I'm using Firefox


It is possible to put in a replacement board with full OEM dimensions. You do not need to install it in sections, although that probably isn't a bad idea.

As for using marine grade plywood, I don't know if it would help. I ordered a 3/4" marine grade from Home Depot for $56, but it was worse looking than a normal 3/4" plywood. The marine grade was warped, and it had many gaps in the ends. It did not look water resistant, and the H.D people agreed it wasn't a very high quality board. So I thought there was a mistake and re-ordered another piece. Same thing happened and returned it also. I ended up using a high-grade 3/4" plywood which had no gaps in the ends, and one side was totally clear.

It is easier than it looks to install a new bed-board. In summary, the camper walls can be pushed apart far enough to slide the new board in place. There is enough "give" to slip in a new board without causing any damage to the camper.

I do not have any photos of the process, but here is a brief summary of how to get the new board in place on a 1980's Grandby without cutting aluminum welds or cutting the new board into sections. Maybe this will also work on a Fleet.

• Loosen the top and front of the paneling on both sides, left and right. In addition to the obvious hex head screws, there are many staples to pull.
• Remove the left and right side window trim.
• Carefully pull the paneling back as far as possible without cracking or breaking the wood and tie the ends together. It looks bad at this point since the paneling is peeled back with the two ends tied together with a bungee cord.
• Remove the oak boards located inside the frame rails. The outside roof latches might need to be removed before the oak boards can be pulled.
• Spread the walls apart by pushing primarily on the upper part of the frame rails. Cut a 2x4 about 1 inch longer than walls, and then add shims until the walls are spread apart approximately 2 inches wider than the normal width. You have to use your imagination and some finesse at this point.
• Wedge one end of the new bed board into the frame rail.
• Now the other end of the bed board will drop into place. That was easy, right?
• When the spreader bar is removed, the walls will snap back into place with absolutely no signs of bending or stretching.

 

[Buckshot62]

We replaced the bed board in our fleet 12 months ago.Split the 3/4" plywood down the middle(front to back).Painted boards (top, bottom&ends)with white house paint(2 coats).Used silicone in a caulking gun to seal the small gap in the middle.I will try to find the pics taken during install.

 

[Oddball]

I just got a sheet of birch plywood and Im going to get started on it now. Thanks again for the help

Robert