Folding Solar Recommendation

Squatch said:
I made my own. 2 Solar Cynergy 60 watt poly panels were cheap! I added a couple of hinges to fold them. 25' 8 gauge cable with Anderson connectors on each end for an extension. They are wired parallel into the same Anderson connector. Then plugged in to the camper parallel to the main panel before the charge controller. A little heavy but put out great power and price was under $100.

attachicon.gif
006 (Small).JPG

attachicon.gif
010 (Small).JPG
I would love to learn to do this. do you have a controller on it?
 
sunvalleylaw said:
I would love to learn to do this. do you have a controller on it?
It depends. If you’re using it as additional solar on a camper that has a system, it would typically be wired from a plug on the camper wall into the existing solar controller. If you want to connect direct to any battery, then you should have a controller as part of the portable system. I suspect if you google “how to build a portable solar system” you’ll get a bunch of hits.
 
Wandering Sagebrush said:
It depends. If you’re using it as additional solar on a camper that has a system, it would typically be wired from a plug on the camper wall into the existing solar controller. If you want to connect direct to any battery, then you should have a controller as part of the portable system. I suspect if you google “how to build a portable solar system” you’ll get a bunch of hits.
This is on my older Northstar which does not have a system, and has just a converter. So I would need to do the whole thing.
 
Key bits are:

1) Where is the battery box on your Northstar?
2) Can you bring some 10g wire from the batt box to an outside wall?
3) Can you punch a hole in the outside wall and mount a weather proof plug?
4) Will you ever have solar on the roof?
5) If no, then buy/make a portable "suitcase" with a built in controller
If yes, then the controller should be as close to the batteries as possible

Ask more questions... this has been done before here!
 
OK, Vic, since you're one of the resident solar experts here I just (gulp) ordered a new Grandby flatbed yesterday from Denny! And I've finally recognized I'll likely continue a solar/electrical dummy forever. So I ordered it with FWC's standard 160 watt roof system.

But I also have the Renogy suitcase 100 watt portable system. Up till now I've just used the included clamps to attach it to the batteries. Can I get rid of the controller on the suitcase (which I've heard is pretty primitive) and plug it into the solar plug on the back wall of the camper and FWC's controller handle the extra input?

Thanks in advance and this isn't urgent since I won't have the camper/ truck and flatbed till next March!

Steve
 
Vic said:

Key bits are:

1) Where is the battery box on your Northstar?
2) Can you bring some 10g wire from the batt box to an outside wall?
3) Can you punch a hole in the outside wall and mount a weather proof plug?
4) Will you ever have solar on the roof?
5) If no, then buy/make a portable "suitcase" with a built in controller
If yes, then the controller should be as close to the batteries as possible

Ask more questions... this has been done before here!

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1) in the back near the back door, lower right in pic.
(see lower right door, below in pic)
[sharedmedia=core:attachments:29595]

2 and 3) I suppose I could but I don't really want to.
4) probably not. Would rather be able to place the unit out in the sun and not be limited by where we are parked/set up.
So, thinking making or buying a portable suitcase will be the best idea, with included controller. Right now, the camper has LED lights, but most everything else runs on the propane. (Heater, fridge, water heater.)
Other than charging phones, flashlights, etc. Would like to consider a small electric space heater but not sure if that is practical. I like the idea of no propane on at night. But I guess I would need to power the fridge. Better look at some of those spread sheets and other info I saw listed in some of the stickies.

Was thinking 120 was the minimum probably. Yes? I think I could build that for not too much. I have a science teacher friend who might help. Also, I saw something about mono solar cells rather than poly. I am thinking a folding board on legs, rather than the truly flexy stuff, so hoping I can get the good cells if I build it myself.

Do you have a resource for looking into building?

Also, was thinking maybe I should find a way to put a second battery in? Or is it good enough just to keep topping off the normal 12v deep cycle battery? As you know, I am in Idaho and have good sun most of the time.
 
Wandering Sagebrush said:
Consider putting the plug in the battery box door.
Ok, dumb question, and then plug in the portable/foldable panel there? Or is that more toward installing roof top?
 
sunvalleylaw said:
And ok, one more. How much does a guy save building on his own? Enough to make it worth it? And are special tools needed? Or should a guy just buy a re-furbed eco-worthy like this one? https://www.ebay.com/itm/100W-120V-12V-Folding-PV-Mono-Solar-Panel-for-Camping-Car-RV-Yacht-Caravan/182480058203?epid=1065710426&hash=item2a7ca8b75b:m:m_zco9uFtVdt2LdVJ_REtCw
Here is a link to a monocrystralline model for $215. https://www.ebay.com/itm/ECO-120W-12V-Mono-Portable-Folding-Solar-Panel-off-Grid-Kit-for-Camper-Boat-RV/362148320362?epid=1650621743&hash=item5451b8d46a:g:hN8AAOSwSlBYtRyT
 
sunvalleylaw said:
Ok, dumb question, and then plug in the portable/foldable panel there? Or is that more toward installing roof top?
Plug in the portable there. It’s a short run to your batteries. You won’t be poking a hole into the habitation area. Your controller can live on the back of the solar panel.
 
Wandering Sagebrush said:
Plug in the portable there. It’s a short run to your batteries. You won’t be poking a hole into the habitation area. Your controller can live on the back of the solar panel.
Ok. I was planning on just leaving the door ajar, and just feeding in the alligator clamps, but I guess that would be neater.
 
Try one of these
https://www.solarblvd.com/product-category/solar-panels-systems/12-volt-solar-kits/

You seem handy, so making legs for them to be angled to the sun should be easy. How may AH is your battery? Hold old is it? Do you have room for two?

Best bet is to start with instrumentation to see what you are using and what the battery health is. Both Victron and Trimetric are loved by the folks here. Once you know that you can see how much solar/battery you need.
 
Vic Harder said:
Try one of these
https://www.solarblvd.com/product-category/solar-panels-systems/12-volt-solar-kits/

You seem handy, so making legs for them to be angled to the sun should be easy. How may AH is your battery? Hold old is it? Do you have room for two?

Best bet is to start with instrumentation to see what you are using and what the battery health is. Both Victron and Trimetric are loved by the folks here. Once you know that you can see how much solar/battery you need.
Ha! Maybe enough to be dangerous! I know a bit, can learn, but am not what I would call truly handy, at least as compared to my handy friends. But I can generally learn. Those kits look interesting. What is the advantage over the pre-built I linked? Quality of the controller and/or panels? They are about $40 or so more than the mono Eco-worthy set up. Yes, I could probably build legs. I would probably like aluminum rather than PVC as I see on some of the how to sites. Also, I need to find dimensions on those kit panels. It did not look like they fold, which would be nice for storage. I would like to store whatever I get in the bins underneath the bed if possible, or in the little wardrobe next to the fridge where you can hang clothes. I will not likely hang clothes camping for my uses.

Re: the battery, prior owner bought it in may, 17, and it is a 12v Marine with CCA listed at 550, MCA at 690 and reserve capacity 140. Not sure how to figure out the Amp Hours from that. I have never looked at that number before. The battery was pretty dead when I moved the trailer under my lean-to shelter for winter. Something got left on I guess. I may need to check the system for drains too. There is an issue on the thermostat/controller for the heater where it can come on if the power to it is left on. Might need to replace that thermostat. So, point being is I don't know if this battery will be good still or not. I have it on a schumacher charger/maintainer, but it doesn't seem to hold the charge for very long yet. The Schumacher measured it at 79% only a couple minutes after I pulled the alligator clips off to check my boat's battery. But the boat battery said the same thing when I switched it over, though it had been off the charger for a few days. I also may need to find a place in the house for the batteries to live during winter. It gets pretty cold in the garage. (Guess I have some battery learning to do).
 
Also, the battery box in the back holds the one 12v battery but not more. However, there is a space behind that battery box into which the battery box could be extended, if need be.

I also figured out I can get LesScwhab or O'Reilly's to test my RV battery and my boat battery and get another tender for winter. So I will see where I am at.

Next will be to figure out how many AH I need, given what I want to run. Which may include figuring a way to power the electric/propane fridge, and some sort of little efficient space heater just to take the edge off and keep it above freezing at night. In addition to the lights and charging phones, etc. No TV or anything like that.
 
The kit you linked to is a folding panel, 120W. I was thinking more like 240w, not folding, but two separate panels. WAY bigger, and not easily stuffed into small spaces.

That battery you have is about 58AH. (.4167 x reserve capacity). Not much at all. That battery is trying to be all things to all people - part starting battery, part storage battery. See if you can get two golf cart (6v) batteries to fit in there.
 
Vic Harder said:
The kit you linked to is a folding panel, 120W. I was thinking more like 240w, not folding, but two separate panels. WAY bigger, and not easily stuffed into small spaces.

That battery you have is about 58AH. (.4167 x reserve capacity). Not much at all. That battery is trying to be all things to all people - part starting battery, part storage battery. See if you can get two golf cart (6v) batteries to fit in there.
Ok. sounds like I have a bit to learn on all of this, in terms of what I need, and how I will source it.
 
Mine came with a nice zippered case. I love stuff that has its own storage. Much easier than building my own and probably not much more expensive.

On mine the controller has four screw terminal connections. If you didn't want to use the controller it'd be very easy to just move the output wires over to the input terminals. Can't see how that might void the warranty.
 
craig333 said:
Mine came with a nice zippered case. I love stuff that has its own storage. Much easier than building my own and probably not much more expensive.

On mine the controller has four screw terminal connections. If you didn't want to use the controller it'd be very easy to just move the output wires over to the input terminals. Can't see how that might void the warranty.
Cool. What brand was yours, and how big did you get, and what do you typically power with your battery(ies)?
 
Sunvalleylaw,

Have you determined how much power you will be using everyday (measured or estimated)? I think that is the best place to start.

After that figure out the camping conditions and season you will mostly likely be camping in (sunny, partly cloudy, park in shade, typically have shore power, move frequently, stay in one place, etc). That will help you sort out how much battery capacity and solar power you need.

For example if you move around a lot and your camper battery is recharged from the truck and/or you tend to camp in places with plug in power then you don't need as much battery or solar charging capacity as if you typically camp in partly cloudy or mostly cloudy conditions and stay for several days at a time with no plug in power or generator available.

The type of battery you use matters. There have been some good threads on WTW relative to batteries as well as measuring or calculating power needs and how much you can reasonably expect to get from your batteries (how deep the discharge) without prematurely killing them.. Here are links to a few threads:

http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/13230-i-need-more-power-scotty/?hl=%2Bscotty+%2Bneed+%2Bmore+%2Bpower

http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/14187-critique-my-batterysolar-setup-before-i-purchase/?hl=%2Bscotty+%2Bneed+%2Bmore+%2Bpower#entry167301

http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/15467-solar-power-for-your-camper-%E2%80%93-where-to-start-hint-the-solar-panels-are-last-in-this-list-of-steps/?hl=%2Bsolar+%2Bpower

Here are a couple of links to battery info on the web:

https://www.solar-electric.com/learning-center/batteries-and-charging/deep-cycle-battery-faq.html

http://jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/carfaq7.htm

http://batteryuniversity.com/


I hope this is of some help.

Regards,

Craig
 

New posts - WTW

Back
Top Bottom