four wheel camper lift panel

[scoutbrewer]

Anyone try using the abs plastic panels on amazon for the lift panels? There 1/4" thick and look similar to what the four wheel camper space age material is made of. Thanks

 

[scoutbrewer]

Anyone use hdpe marine grade or starboard? I am thinking about trying this as I used wood and it must have had a defect and failed prematurely. Thanks

 

[PaulT]

Two possible issues with using starboard/hdpe. They must be mechanically mounted without adhesives as little sticks to that plastic. You can heat weld parts together.

Also, that may be too flexible to be used as a roof support. Even the plastic that FWC uses can take a permanent bend. Having about a quarter inch thickness in the panels, separated by 10 ft or so, being stiff enough to support 1000 lbs on the roof and the weight of the roof plus the force to tighten all the tent material as required should be thoroughly researched. I’m sure that FWC & Marty’s crew have had their share of materials & design problems before arriving at their current designs.

Not saying it won’t work but keep your eyes open.

Paul

 

[scoutbrewer]

Thanks for the response. If I go forward I will post a final image and flaws. I have seen many use different types from aluminum to wood.

 

[Beach]

I would not use Starboard for the lift panels. The 1/4" will most likely flex and cup from the load. I used Starboard for many years on boats and for other applications and while it is a very good product, it's not for this particular project.

 

[scoutbrewer]

Thanks. Think it will work cabinets?

 

[ckent323]

How about using Aluminum?

https://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/13942-lift-panel-replacement-help/page-3

 

[Beach]

It could work for cabinets but it is heavy. you could use Starboard lite for that purpose although it is porous and the porosity will show on the edges. Any long span of starboard if unsupported will sag though. As mentioned above you'll need to mechanically fasten it or it can be welded if you use the correct plastic rods. If using screws, all holes will need to be predrilled. I would probably use 1/2" baltic birch or a good quality luan(sp) plywood, easy to work with, stiff, fairly light wt.

 

[scoutbrewer]

I decided to go with the 1/4" birch as I already had it made up just had to change the damaged piece. I made mine even and I guess they need a 1/4" shorter board on top.
https://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/12116-full-build-reconstructing-a-1981-grandby-into-a-custom-hawk/page-11
Anyone know the offset to attach to the roof? I installed it with a offset of the top of the wall measurement last. Thanks

 

[scoutbrewer]

Update got the birch panels finished and install. My sideliner came with the bungee straps. I purchased an atc sideliner. Does anyone have pics on where I am suppose to install these? I am guessing they rivet them? Thanks

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

By side liner, I assume you’re referring to the cold weather pack that adds insulation to the camper. It Velcros top and bottom to the sides, and tucks behind the lift panels. If you want, I can provide photos in the morning.

 

[scoutbrewer]

I dont have the sideliner weather pack up yet. I just have the canvas and velcro strip that was sent to me by atc. I would add pictures but it says the files are too big. Im a newb

 

[scoutbrewer]

Looks like there attached to the inside window panels? Can I just get some measurements?

 

[PokyBro]

Hi scoutbrewer,

If I’m reading this right, you completed your lift panels and have installed them to the roof and camper body, is that correct?

If not, do you still need measurements on where to attach the lift panel top piano hinge to the roof, or did you get that sorted out?

Have you lifted it up, and closed it, one end at a time, to make sure it sits where it is supposed to when closed, and everything lines up? If not, you might want to review how I set mine on during that part of the build process. Making some cut to length boards to rest the the top lid on while attaching to the camper body was a big help to ensure it attached very level.

https://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/12116-full-build-reconstructing-a-1981-grandby-into-a-custom-hawk/page-12

Next, in your question on where/ how to attach bungees to the side liner, are you referring to the @3/4-1” wide flat elastic that attaches behind the lift panel on one end, and to the side liner on the other end, to pull the side liner in when dropping the roof?

If that is what you are referring to, then the way I thought it would work, and how I did mine, was to pop rivet one end, with a folded over end to ensure it didn’t tear out, to the the center piano hinge on the lift panel (replacing a pop rivet that was already there), and do three elastic straps/bungee’s across the width of the lift panel, spaced apart enough to pull the liner in when closing. On the other end, when attaching to the side liner, I think I tried to fold it again, but can’t remember. I felt for the hinge through the vinyl material to match where it should fold, then carefully drilled a 1/8” hole through the side liner, and used about a 1/8” x 3/8” pop rivet with the head on the outside of the liner, going in to the side liner, then through the elastic strap, then through a small aluminum washer made for pop rivets, before crimping the pop rivet tight. It has worked very well for me. I found them at one of the box stores in a small pack, but for reference here’s an Amazon link.

https://www.amazon.com/Magery-Aluminum-Backup-Washers-Diameter/dp/B0897142XZ/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=pop+rivet+washers&qid=1665341029&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0LjA4IiwicXNhIjoiMy43NSIsInFzcCI6IjMuMjgifQ%3D%3D&sr=8-9

Lastly, here’s a link to how I installed the side liner. I made side liner height such that I could tuck about one over the 1” aluminum tube of the roof, and then allowed the aluminum roof top to go over the side liner, and fold downward. I attached the vinyl side liner with 18 gauge staples as I went around the perimeter, trying to make sure it didn’t bunch up anywhere. It also was very very helpful to measure and mark 1 inch along the top of the side liner prior to start ting the install, so it was uniformly even. Then I folded the aluminum roof top skin over the frame with the side liner tucked inside, and again stapled that down at about 8 inch increments along the side, before attaching the the trim ring over top with screws.
https://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/12116-full-build-reconstructing-a-1981-grandby-into-a-custom-hawk/page-15

Hope this helps, but just think things through, and a lot of this is somewhat intuitive when you study the process out in your mind.

Good luck, hope it all turns out well. Share photos if you can. I forgot to take pics of the bungee straps being attached behind the lift panels when I did mine, or I could have offered that.

Poky

 

[scoutbrewer]

Thanks for the response. I did drop it and everything dropped where it should. Very happy that this worked out. Top to top of wall is 29" which provides plenty of head room. I am gonna go over your build again just to make sure I know where to make holes and install pop rivets before I do. Measure 5 times make one hole. Do I need to download to flicker or some other site to upload photos?

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

<snip>
Do I need to download to flicker or some other site to upload photos?

It appears I misinterpreted your original question, but thankfully PokyBro stepped in.

You can upload to any site that hosts photos. I use both Flickr and WTW, and paste the image address into the dialog box associated with the picture icon. There are pinned threads in the Member Support forum that can help. Feel free to send me a PM if you need help.

 

[scoutbrewer]

Thanks for the feedback. I am very happy with the help. Lets see if this helps with some photos