FWC gas strut info

[Oryguntroutbum]

Here is some literature I got from FWC. Thought it would be good to share and possible be added by Ski3pin to the sticky.

And for info I found the correct 40lb struts on eBay for $29.99 per pair and found the 10mm ball studs for another $30.

 

[ski3pin]

thanks, it has been added here

FWC Factory Tech Tips

 

[Stan@FourWheel]

The "Exterior Gas Sturt Roof Lift Assist" .pdf document above is a little out of date.

We have changed the way we install the gas struts, ever so slightly.

Prepping a new camper with just the "ball studs only" so you can install your own gas struts at a later date now costs $ 100.00.

Just a friendly FYI.

 

[ski3pin]

Stan, do you have a new document? Do you want this still linked to the FWC Factory Tech Tips?

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

The "Exterior Gas Sturt Roof Lift Assist" .pdf document above is a little out of date.

We have changed the way we install the gas struts, ever so slightly.

Prepping a new camper with just the "ball studs only" so you can install your own gas struts at a later date now costs $ 100.00.

Just a friendly FYI.

Stan thanks for the info. I am sure it helps owners and new buyers.

My question is , why do the smaller campers require the 40" struts? When the total lift in height is the same about 24" on standard roof and about 26" or so on the taller liner?
It seems that the 36" struts will fill the same need for all roofs.
Frank

 

[Stan@FourWheel]

Hello ski3pin

You can leave up it there if you want.

The current installation method is listed on the .pdf on the top thread.

http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/9141-fwc-gas-strut-recall/

We are still using the same lb. & size struts as is listed on the chart.

The only change is how we are currently installing the rivnet / ball studs.

We are adding the small reinforcements plate to make it stronger & more secure.

Stan, do you have a new document? Do you want this still linked to the FWC Factory Tech Tips?

 

[Stan@FourWheel]

Hello Frank

On the newer FWC Fleet, Eagle, & Finch Models, the 36" long gas struts won't work the way we need them to.

We have tried many different versions and brackets. If we could use the 36" strucks on our smaller campers, we would for sure.

The pop-up material on the newer Fleet, Eagle, & Finch Models is "taller" than it used to be.

These smaller campers used to only have 6.0' of interior headroom. The new model have 6' 4" of interior headroom.

No matter how we tried to install the 36" struts on these smaller campers (every bracket, every angle, every direction) the 36" gas struts will bottom out before allowing the camper roof to completely close.

We need the extra 4" that the 40" gas struts give us.

If we can come up with an alternative size & method that we are comfortable with, we would consider using it for sure.

But right now the 40" struts are working well and doing what we need them to do.

Hope this helps.

Stan thanks for the info. I am sure it helps owners and new buyers.

My question is , why do the smaller campers require the 40" struts? When the total lift in height is the same about 24" on standard roof and about 26" or so on the taller liner?
It seems that the 36" struts will fill the same need for all roofs.
Frank

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

Thank you Stan that was what I had in the back of my mind about the extra height.
Frank

 

[Smokecreek1]

Okay guys, I just installed the two new interior 60lb gas struts I got in the mail yesterday from FWC - Once I figured out what the instructions said, they went on fast and yes they work and why have i waited so long to do it and so what it costs $280 or so/w/postage, I can lift that top so fast there has to be something wrong! My old back packing buddy says i'm a wimp now, but hey, this maybe gives my back 10 or more years, so i'll take the abuse ! With all my other new stuff I got this year, I may just start to get dangerous out there !!!

Smoke

 

[buckland]

And for those that have the (mine 2011) Eagle Fleet or Finch. my thread 'roof lift gas struts' includes on the last page, a pdf file that shows how one can DYI... note I did add a ¼" aluminum flat stock plate to kick the struts out. worked fine. Any questions please feel free to contact. It was a long process and received help from some nice folks. Thats what this forum is all about.

 

[camper101]

I'm curious about this because I've read conflicting accounts: does it help with lifting the front, the back, or both ends when you have the internal struts?

 

[jha6av8r]

I'm curious about this because I've read conflicting accounts: does it help with lifting the front, the back, or both ends when you have the internal struts?

With only the Yakima bars, Basketcase, & solar panel, they make lifting both ends easier. When the roof is loaded, I can lift the rear but getting the front up that last bit to lock it in place can be a challenge.

 

[Smokecreek1]

It's a whole new world to me now; instead of starting first from the back of the fwc, siting on the couch and pushing upwards , I go to the front, stand under the wood cross roof brace push up easy like, then reach out and push the front brace forward to lock it in place, then walk back to the rear and give that back panel and roof a push and it is up and no more grunting and cuss words. My solar panels weigh about 32 lbs and from what fwc says I can probably put a boat up there and be okay. Comes down in a flash, just have to check the outside folds like i always do to make sure they are under the roof. Just in time for the chance of snow on Friday !

Smoke

 

[buckland]

Camper101, I installed the front and rear external struts, not the 2 inside. They are 30 lbs. lift each. They help a great deal while lifting and takes the stress out of dropping that weight when closing (nice and easy drop). It will probably pay for itself over time taking the wear and tear out when closing up. I had used the speaker stand crank and it worked fine over the last 3 years, but now I have a lot more weight up there and I could hear the crank complain. I keep the crank in the camper still anyway... always have a back-up.

 

[CamperCarl]

If my Grandby roof isn't damaged by the time we travel north, I will head to Woodland to have the fix done at the factory and get a few more answers.

 

[DonC]

I have not looked at the strut threads in a while. When I did a test lift of a roof at the factory I was surprised how easy it was. Then when I picked up my new camper with a solar panel on top it was nearly impossible. It would have been nice to get a warning of how dramatically this would effect the roof lift.

Anyway, I went for about a year then starting seeing the DIY threads here about rear lift assists. I went to FWC and Tom actually had the factory attempt to add them to his Fleet and they explained all the issues with it and why it was still not recommended or approved by the factory, even though there were many DIY's. This was late summer 2012. I had them install the internal front lift assists but have continued with no lift assists in the back, other than foam and my hard head.

So, what has changed that FWC now does rear lift assists? Did they change something on newer campers or did they just figure out how to do it given how important it is to their customers?

 

[Oryguntroutbum]

Anyone else had a problem with the reinforcement plates (that were part of the recall) rusting? Mine are pitting out pretty bad.

 

[buckland]

Thought I'd add the photos of the 1/4" aluminum plate I added to strengthen and kick out the ball clips.

 

[PaulT]

Anyone else had a problem with the reinforcement plates (that were part of the recall) rusting? Mine are pitting out pretty bad.

Yep. Rusting away. Was surprised that for all the expense assumed in performing the recall, they didn't use aluminum or stainless steel. The repair was certainly strong enough but somewhat unsightly as there is a big arrow pointing at each one (the struts). And I frequently show possible buyers my Hawk.

Paul

 

[EDR]

Buckland,
I like the idea of spreading the load.
How did you secure the plates?