FWC Isotherm Question

[Wallowa]

Our '16 Hawk has the CR130EL Isotherm refrigerator. It works great but when trying to find out how to turn off the interior light when leaving the door open to air out [must unplug from my shop 110V and shut off master switch or remove light bulb] I came across the information that "the compressor will not work if external temperature is 0C or less"..

What? If camping in anything less than 32F/0C our refrigerator will not work?

Hopefully the internal temp of Hawk will keep the compressor running...

Any comments?

Phil

Ps...Only weak point in this refrigerator is the funky plastic latch on the top of the frame [that door snaps into]...it slides to an open position and can also pop off [it has..]....overall it does not engender a sense of security nor longevity...

 

[longhorn1]

If it is anything like the Dometic 80L compressor you have to turn the knob until it clicks. The first time I thought I was going to break it. I turn of the power and leave the fridge open to air out. If you leave power on your smoke and gas detectors will slowly drain your battery.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Wander The West mobile app

 

[Wallowa]

If it is anything like the Dometic 80L compressor you have to turn the knob until it clicks. The first time I thought I was going to break it. I turn of the power and leave the fridge open to air out. If you leave power on your smoke and gas detectors will slowly drain your battery.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Wander The West mobile app

Thanks...but a clarification...I know how to turn off the temperature control [it clicks]...but the light stays on...in my shop the Hawk is plugged into 110v to float the charge on our two FWC AGM batteries and supply the any appliances if needed...basically we store the Hawk in the shop and want to leave the door open and light off....so I will remove the bulb since turning off the master power switch will stop the charging of the AGMs while hooked up to 110V..

My question concerned the Isotherm compressor not working below a 0C "external" temperature, as stated in the Isotherm manual....

Phil

 

[rando]

I have the same issue with airing out my isotherm after a trip. However it looks like the light is an LED, so I don't think there is an issue setting the dial to '0', and leaving the door open and the light on. I guess you could tape the switch on the LED to keep it off. As for the zero degree thing - I don't think this is a programmed limit - ie I don't think the fridge has an external temperature sensor and shuts down when it reads zero and Danfos who makes the compressor doesn't say anything about a low temperature limit. However it may not run if the internal thermostat reads zero (which makes sense as it is a fridge not a freezer).

 

[Wallowa]

Rando,

Great idea to tape the plunger "in" on the light while leaving the door open...thankfully here in NE Oregon humidity is very low [20-30] so it will dry quickly...

Odd you mentioned freezing temp in main refrigerator ..my wife accidentally bumped the normal "3.8" setting which yields an average of around 43 F....she unwittingly turn it to about "6"...even froze the hard boiled eggs, everything got frozen....all part of our learning curve..

Thanks for info...

Phil

 

[Stan@FourWheel]

If you want the refrigerator interior light to go off while you are storing the camper (and want to leave the camper hooked up to shore power), you would need to turn off the refrigerator circuit breaker at your panel (inside the camper), I think it is the #2 circuit breaker, AND you would also need to pull the 12V fuse for the refrigerator at the fuse panel.

I'll check with our vendor about the temperature settings on it. I haven't heard of any exterior min/max operating temperatures.

Stan





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[Wallowa]

If you want the refrigerator interior light to go off while you are storing the camper (and want to leave the camper hooked up to shore power), you would need to turn off the refrigerator circuit breaker at your panel (inside the camper), I think it is the #2 circuit breaker, AND you would also need to pull the 12V fuse for the refrigerator at the fuse panel.

I'll check with our vendor about the temperature settings on it. I haven't heard of any exterior min/max operating temperatures.

Stan





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Stan,

As always your insights are appreciated. Thanks, again I forgot about the circuit breaker and fuse....might be simpler than pulling bulb but Rando's tape idea also could be easier..

Check page 25 of Isotherm's "User's Manual" under "3. Maintenance"...quote is "In the winter, the refrigerator must be stored inside the boat, but the compressor will not work at temperatures near or below 0C."

Manual is interesting and humorous since I assume it was written by a non-English speaking person [China]. Like on page 32 when talking about the "Smart Energy Control"; "The device not only renders your refrigerator more intelligent, but also allows for a significant amount of cold energy stored in food and soft drinks to be saved".

I always have wanted a more intelligent refrigerator; perhaps the device will work on me!

Again, our Hawk has met and exceeded our expectations, great product that I hope will be produced for a long, long time.

Phil

 

[craig333]

I've never seen or heard of an issue of the fridges not running in below freezing temps. Certainly never had a problem myself.

 

[Wallowa]

I've never seen or heard of an issue of the fridges not running in below freezing temps. Certainly never had a problem myself.

Craig,

Nor Have I, but there are several different manufacturers and models in FWCs. Mostly I asked because of what I read in the User's Manual...

Rando...tape idea worked like a charm, duct tape to the rescue once again; light out, door open...thanks.

Phil

 

[longhorn1]

Wallowa,

We store our camper covered outdoors. I turn the camper power off and every 6-8 weeks plug my portable panel in. It has been covered for 3 weeks and 12.8. I keep the battery charged with solar. I would think you can do the same by plugging into shore power with the power on or off. jd

Sent from my SM-G900V using Wander The West mobile app

 

[Wallowa]

Wallowa,

We store our camper covered outdoors. I turn the camper power off and every 6-8 weeks plug my portable panel in. It has been covered for 3 weeks and 12.8. I keep the battery charged with solar. I would think you can do the same by plugging into shore power with the power on or off. jd

Sent from my SM-G900V using Wander The West mobile app

We are fortunate enough to have a large enough garage/shop to keep the Tundra/Hawk inside during the winter...

I do believe that FWC sez you need the Master Power Switch [silver knob in our case] "on" when plugged into 110/120V in order to charge the FWC batteries...if it is "off" position, the solar still charges the batteries but the 110/120V external line will not.

Phil

 

[Bombsight]

We are fortunate enough to have a large enough garage/shop to keep the Tundra/Hawk inside during the winter...

I do believe that FWC sez you need the Master Power Switch [silver knob in our case] "on" when plugged into 110/120V in order to charge the FWC batteries...if it is "off" position, the solar still charges the batteries but the 110/120V external line will not.

Phil

I thought when you plugged into 110, it overrides everything and charges batteries ... same thing when you are driving, truck charges before solar. The silver knob confuses me as far as charging ability
goes.

 

[Wallowa]

I thought when you plugged into 110, it overrides everything and charges batteries ... same thing when you are driving, truck charges before solar. The silver knob confuses me as far as charging ability
goes.

From FWC manual; underlining is mine:

"Notes regarding the red or silver 12v master kill switch inside the camper: * The “IN” (pushed in) position means 12v power is NOT being allowed to power appliances. * The “OUT” (pulled out) position means 12v power IS being allowed to power appliances. Regarding the recharging of the campers Auxiliary Battery: * When using the truck’s charging system or the solar panel (if equipped), the red or silver 12v master switch can be in the “IN” or “OUT” position to allow recharging of the auxiliary battery. * When the camper is plugged into 120v shore power or a generator (electricity), the red or silver 12v master switch can be “IN” or “OUT” to operate appliances. However, when these power sources are being used, the red 12v switch must be pulled “OUT” to allow for recharging of the auxiliary battery through the 30amp IOTA power converter. If you are plugged into shore power (120V electricity) and would like your aux. camper battery to be getting recharged from the electricity source, please make sure that the red or silver push/pull 12v master switch is in the “ON” position (pulled out). This will allow the camper battery to get recharged from the power converter that is built into the camper (excludes shell models)."

It does tend to be a little confusing...

Phil

 

[PaulT]

Our '16 Hawk has the CR130EL Isotherm refrigerator. It works great but when trying to find out how to turn off the interior light when leaving the door open to air out [must unplug from my shop 110V and shut off master switch or remove light bulb] I came across the information that "the compressor will not work if external temperature is 0C or less"..

What? If camping in anything less than 32F/0C our refrigerator will not work?

Hopefully the internal temp of Hawk will keep the compressor running...

Any comments?

Phil

Remember that heat energy normally goes from a high temp to a lower temp. If the temperature outside the fridge is below 0C/32F, the fridge would need to be a heater to keep the interior from freezing. Haven't heard of any fridges that heat the interior.

If it's freezing, the fridge doesn't need to run to keep your food cold. You may need to open the fridge door to keep it above freezing. I found that in a 28F night, the fridge didn't run overnight. It did run again the next day after the temp increased. There is likely enough thermal inertia in the food to keep the food from freezing overnight.

Monitor the fridge internal temp which is good to do anyway and open the door to warm it up. Counter-intuitive, eh?
Paul

 

[Wallowa]

Remember that heat energy normally goes from a high temp to a lower temp. If the temperature outside the fridge is below 0C/32F, the fridge would need to be a heater to keep the interior from freezing. Haven't heard of any fridges that heat the interior.

If it's freezing, the fridge doesn't need to run to keep your food cold. You may need to open the fridge door to keep it above freezing. I found that in a 28F night, the fridge didn't run overnight. It did run again the next day after the temp increased. There is likely enough thermal inertia in the food to keep the food from freezing overnight.

Monitor the fridge internal temp which is good to do anyway and open the door to warm it up. Counter-intuitive, eh?
Paul

That makes sense...we in fact do have a max/min recording temp sender in the fridge and the receiver inside on top of the side cabinet [above side dinette table] in the Hawk...all things considered if the inside of the Hawk is below freezing we probably will not be in it nor will we have food in the fridge

The entire back of the fridge is vented top and bottom on the driver's side of the Hawk but the other three sides are 'inside' the Hawk so 'external temp' should be above freezing.

Thanks for the input.

Phil

 

[Stan@FourWheel]

Not sure how much this helps, or not, but sounds like the cold temperatures are not much a problem for the refrigerator, for how most of our customers will be using them.

Additional information back from the manufacturing (refrigerator service tech) . . .


<<<<<<<<<<

The lower operating temperature is stated for -10*C.

I wouldn’t go so low, but that’s what the manufacture said.

Probably on the manual they stated 0*C to maintain a tolerance gap.

If the fridge is not running, it can tolerate a lower temperature of -35*C in a dry environment.

>>>>>>>>>>



Stan


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[Wallowa]

Not sure how much this helps, or not, but sounds like the cold temperatures are not much a problem for the refrigerator, for how most of our customers will be using them.

Additional information back from the manufacturing (refrigerator service tech) . . .


<<<<<<<<<<

The lower operating temperature is stated for -10*C.

I wouldn’t go so low, but that’s what the manufacture said.

Probably on the manual they stated 0*C to maintain a tolerance gap.

If the fridge is not running, it can tolerate a lower temperature of -35*C in a dry environment.

>>>>>>>>>>



Stan


.

Thanks Stan...Winter camping during severe low temps might be out but again not a big issue with the vast majority of those using Isotherms..

Still curious if the minimum temps Isotherm is quoting refers to outside of our Hawk or inside the Hawk...some low temps here in NE Oregon hit -20F but neither me or our Hawk will be outside on purpose during those deep freezes! However, I can see myself in the Hawk during backcountry skiing trips when the temps overnight get near zero degrees F or 14 degrees below what Isotherm says is the lowest operating temperature. My plan is to simply turn off the Isotherm if necessary under extreme conditions.

-10C = 14F and -35C = -31F

Phil