Granby furnace issues

BWSracing

Advanced Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2015
Messages
59
Hey guys, first night in the camper last night with the wife and dogs, went to fire up the furnace as it was getting colder and no heat. The exact problem is thermostat clicks, fan comes on, igniter clicks away but no ignition. It does this two time and shuts off, I have confirmed there is propane as my stove works just fine. On a side note I also think there may be an issues with the propane potion of the fridge as the igniter jut clicks away and doesn't seem to stop. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks


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My experience: The "typical" cause of these symptoms is that the sail switch (which confirms airflow from the fan) isn't being activated, so the propane valve isn't opening. This is typically caused by the fan not turning fast enough, caused by low battery voltage. At least, that's been my experience. How's your camper battery voltage?

Once when it happened to me it turned out that the propane valve wasn't opening because the valve had malfunctioned. RV fixit shop had to replace the valve. RV fixit man told me that it's rare for that to happen...but it did to me.

Of course, there could just be something wrong with the sail switch and the fan is actually turning fast enough.
 
The battery's and funny charged and we were plunged into shore power as well.


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Is there a second valve for the heater or is it just the main valve on the top of the bottle?


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BWSracing said:
Is there a second valve for the heater or is it just the main valve on the top of the bottle?
The valve that I was referring to in my first post is a solenoid (or something like that) valve, part of the furnace, that opens on demand when the furnace "wants" propane. Not a manual valve.
 
I have tried several time to purge any air out of the lines. I am not able to smell propane on the exhaust side of the furnace. I may need to do a little disassembly.


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So I smell propane in the exhaust side. The only fault I have is an ignition lockout fault which is three blink sequence. Now I'm a little lost. I have significant fan speed, I have propane flow, and I can hear the igniter but no flame and no heat.


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Also, turn the thermostat switch off to kill any power to the circuitry in the furnace. As I recall, a reset of the circuitry required power cycling the control circuitry that happens when power is removed. Turn the switch off for 30 seconds or so and try again.

To ensure that propane has arrived, I always light a cook top burner as the flame provides confirmation that propane has made at least that far in displacing air in the supply hose.

Paul
 
Is your furnace an Atwood?

My experience with my 8516-IV is documented below. In my case the burner would very occasionally start but wouldn't keep running.

http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/11285-my-furnaces-unreliable-start-problem-turned-out-to-be-the-electrode/?hl=8516-iv

Besides the logic board and igniter/flame sensor, there are a bunch of other possibilities such as the sail switch, the propane valve sticking, insufficient propane pressure due to some type of blockage in the line, insufficient air flow due to an insect nest in the intake or exhaust, reverse polarity, and many others. A comprehensive list is on the troubleshooting page of the furnace manual (if it's an Atwood) on page 30 here:

http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/hflamefurn04.pdf

Also -

Do you have more than 11 volts at the circuit breaker on the furnace (with thermostat closed)?

Have you pulled and re-seated the connector plug on the logic board?

Removed the logic board and cleaned the contacts with an eraser? (assuming you can't get at them without removing the board)

Removed the draft cap and looked for evidence of insect blockage in the exhaust?

Checked the ground connection to see if it's loose or corroded?

(Good luck!)

-OC
 
Okay, after almost 10 years of fighting the furnace in my 05 Granby-here are my non-technical suggestions to go along with the other good ones that have been suggested :p ! If I think I will use it that night (1) I hit the therm way before i climb in for the night-if it doesn't start-I start the truck, then hit the therm again-sort of warm it up. I use the same process in the morning if it does not start! This process was improved many years ago when I added a small solar panel to my set up; this kept my battery in the green zone and greatly improved the chance of a one time heater start :D! What does it all mean-keep the battery up!

Smoke..
 
I had a similar issue and was getting the blinking light sequence on my logic board. Was anticipating having to replace the board but it turned out to be just a bad connection to mthe board and unplugging and replugging that reseated the connection and all was well again.

Not that my experience was after a long trip that included driving into and around at Tuweep as well as some washboard roads and off-road around Moab so that may have contributed to the connection coming loose.
 
Since this was the maiden voyage I did it at a location with shore power and close to home for this very reason. The batteries were %100 and I even went and topped of both tanks to ensure it was low flow or a pressure issues. I have inspected the exhaust and the air intake as well. I did check connections and have tired several times in different conditions. I think the board is working I think the igniter is not powerful enough it the air flow is too high to let it light. Ole to get it figured out tomorrow. These answers are the reason I joined this forum. Thanks for all the help


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Brand new 2015 camper?

Have a screw driver?

Try removing the outside cover and checking the reset switch. It might be in the wrong position, or just need resetting.

Hope this helps.
 
Is this a new propane tank and the first time you've used it for gas? Cooking or heat?

If so, did the individual who filled your tank do a purge on the tank? A new tank must be purged on the initial fill.
 
Hello BWSracing

You wrote:

<< thermostat clicks, fan comes on, igniter clicks away but no ignition >>

<< propane portion of the fridge as the igniter jut clicks away and doesn't seem to stop >>

I'm guessing you have a 3-way Refrigerator? (AC/DC/Propane).

If you hear the refrigerator clicking & clicking, are you sure the refrigerator pilot light is actually lit?

Have you checked outside to see if you can see a pilot light burning?

Almost sounds like there is no propane getting to the camper, but you said the stove works, so that is weird.

Feel free to call Terry Budd here at FWC and we might be able to help walk you through it.

800-242-1442

Thanks so much.



.
 
I had a bees fly in through my exhaust vent and nest. It took the RV repair guy 3 try's to get them all out and reset everything. I now have a magnetic cover over the vent since the camper sets in a carport when not on the road. The heater symptoms were the same as you described.
 
Is it possible that the orifice for the pilot light is plugged? That would keep the ignition process from starting? They do make stainless steel screens for most furnace and water heaters on RVs. Good luck, Bigfoot Dave
 
Hey guys, a friend of mine helped me look at it today And sure enough wasps made a nest in the igniter. Cleaned it off and it works like a champ. I couldn't see anything from the exhaust vent but sure enough. Thanks for the help. Time to check the same thing in the fridge. Damn little critters.


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