How do you re-center a pop-up if it shifts during a trip?

[buckland]

That is a very cool idea using cutting board material as a guide. (Wish I thought of it!) I will try just that next time I take off the camper. I bought a 4x6 ft horse stall mat for my Japanese mini truck. Incredibly tough stuff. A special at Tractor supply(( $39.95)

 

[AWG_Pics]

In years past I have always been able to leave as is until I return home, so I don’t have any tricks for that.

As far as prevention, I’ve found that a cheap nylon cutting board cut down and attached between the camper and wheel wells makes sliding the camper in a lot easier and helps keep it centered. The real solution though is to install a horse stall mat between the camper and truck bed floor. Those things hold the camper in place like glue!

On my first trip after installing the mat, I had a turnbuckle come completely loose somewhere between Saline Valley Springs and the top of the hill at the Bristle Cone Pines via North Pass and the back way from Laws to the Pines. A fairly steep bumpy route, and though I don’t know exactly where it came loose, that camper didn’t move at all. In the years since I’ve had no problems with movement, so I’m sold!

Hope this helps,
Tom

Can vouch for the horse stall mat. Keeps the camper very stable.

I think it was Vic Harder that suggested using nyloc nuts on turnbuckles. Since I did that only one has come just a half turn loose in 3 years.

 

[ntsqd]

Horse stall mat or a rubber bed floor mat, either is a game changer for sure.

 

[Tom n N]

Nylock nuts are a great solution for this problem, especially if the camper is permanently mounted. If like me you remove it seasonally, just remember that after a couple uses they loose their grip, so have to be replaced (in the critical applications they were invented for they are considered a one time use product). Also keep in mind that on a turnbuckle they have to be installed “backwards” on the hook, which can sometimes be a pain, but is doable.
Tom

 

[rubberlegs]

We've had our camper move up against the left side numerous times. And that's with the horse mats. It's never shifted right. There's more weight on the left side with our setup -- fridge, sink, cabinets, etc. We use jam nuts which really helps.

 

[h2opup]

In years past I have always been able to leave as is until I return home, so I don’t have any tricks for that.

As far as prevention, I’ve found that a cheap nylon cutting board cut down and attached between the camper and wheel wells makes sliding the camper in a lot easier and helps keep it centered. The real solution though is to install a horse stall mat between the camper and truck bed floor. Those things hold the camper in place like glue!

On my first trip after installing the mat, I had a turnbuckle come completely loose somewhere between Saline Valley Springs and the top of the hill at the Bristle Cone Pines via North Pass and the back way from Laws to the Pines. A fairly steep bumpy route, and though I don’t know exactly where it came loose, that camper didn’t move at all. In the years since I’ve had no problems with movement, so I’m sold!

Hope this helps,
Tom

Tom - I like the idea of the nylon board as guide but am having a hard time picturing what you mean exactly (which way to cut down, angle, etc.)_- any photos you could share? Many thanks.

 

[h2opup]

We've had our camper move up against the left side numerous times. And that's with the horse mats. It's never shifted right. There's more weight on the left side with our setup -- fridge, sink, cabinets, etc. We use jam nuts which really helps.

I had said I was concerned about shifting to the driver's side because of the water tank spigot, but that was backwards thinking - the spigot is on the driver's side. So the spigot would only get blocked or damaged if the camper shifted right towards the passenger's side. My rig is also left heavy with sink, propane (and driver) so hopefully if the camper does shift slightly it will go left and if not too dramatic a shift it won't require immediate attention.

 

[h2opup]

That is a very cool idea using cutting board material as a guide. (Wish I thought of it!) I will try just that next time I take off the camper. I bought a 4x6 ft horse stall mat for my Japanese mini truck. Incredibly tough stuff. A special at Tractor supply(( $39.95)

I had Rhino Liner installed (the new stuff they use - really tough and doesn't peel but slicker than the old RL). ATC had recommended not to use a rubber mat unless the camper will be removed now and then otherwise the accumulated dampness can rust out the truck bed and/or damage the camper floor.
I guess putting a rubber mat atop the RL would not be a problem for the truck bed since the RL will prevent rust, but the mat could still hold in dampness against the camper floor?
It's likely my camper will be living on the truck.

 

[Tom n N]

Tom - I like the idea of the nylon board as guide but am having a hard time picturing what you mean exactly (which way to cut down, angle, etc.)_- any photos you could share? Many thanks.

Good timing, I just took off the camper for the season (my copilot does NOT tolerate winter camping!) That also eliminates rot or rust under the mat, as I wash and dry the bed and mat before installing the fiberglass shell for the winter. I leave the mat in the shell, as it keeps stuff from sliding around back there.

Just be sure to countersink your attachment screws so you don’t scratch your wheel wells (If needed you could stack several boards to make thicker)

 

[h2opup]

Good timing, I just took off the camper for the season (my copilot does NOT tolerate winter camping!) That also eliminates rot or rust under the mat, as I wash and dry the bed and mat before installing the fiberglass shell for the winter. I leave the mat in the shell, as it keeps stuff from sliding around back there.

Just be sure to countersink your attachment screws so you don’t scratch your wheel wells (If needed you could stack several boards to make thicker)

That's pretty slick! (pun intended). Many thanks!