I can tell you from my own experienc without a lift I would not have the breakover, entry, depareture angle I need to go places. If I had a smaller truck I would not need as much lift if any at all. I think it really depends on you and where you are going to take your truck. I am with Deltarat my lift rides better than when it was stock.
My 99 F250 got new stock springs in the back along with air bags, new shocks all around, a 2" leveling kit and I went with 285/75's on the stock 16" rims. Got me over quite a few passes, gullies, and rocks in Colorado. The 285/75's are basically the same height/lift as the 305/70's just not quite as wide. 99% of the time I'm probably on pavement. 6" is a lot and can add complexity.
I have a F350 with a donahoe/icon 2.5"/3" lift and it enabled me to run 35's at one time. Like others have said, my ride improved quite a bit but more so it increased the distance between the front bump stops two fold. Most Overland vehicles don't run much lift or any at all.
Jon is very knowledgeable in regards to lifts, maybe he will chime in.
No lift so far, but as my trucks wheel base's get longer ('87 Toyota Xtra Cab, '99 Dodge Quad Cab and '06 Chevy Crew Cab all with about the same amount of ground clearance at the differentials), I see the need for a lift to accommodate break over angles. I'm considering a 4 inch lift in the front, 2 1/2 inch in the rear, with another inch or so from larger tires.
I may be way down at the end of the world in Ushuaia but I have a opinion…
The higher you go the wider you need to offset the foot print because you just raised your center of gravity. That is just for the truck alone. Now add a FWC and the center of gravity changes. Thought the FWC is great and can go anywhere, why create a hazard of rolling over while on trail.
Raising does help departure and approach angles but you can add bumpers and skid your way.
Tires, yes get wider as you go with a taller lift. The talk about gaining a lot of differential clearance by increasing diameter is true to a point. The tire is squatting on the bottom side and then you take air out for traction and performance on the trail. If you really want the max diff clearance you need to go big diameter. There are rock skids available or have custom made for protection.
Your driving style and experience off road is the most important factor and knowing the limitations of you and your truck. Make it right and make it safe for all
And on the 83 Toyota 4x4 long bed I had 33x12.5 BFG All terrians and 1.5 inch lift because that was the lowest National Springs could make with all the thin leaves.
No lift on this rig, I don't need it at this point. Down the road if I start hitting terrain requiring it I'll ponder my options and truck selection more.
I've ran rigs with 8" lifts and such in the past and that combined with youthful vigor usually means you're going to be wrenching a fair amount, haha. Since now you are stressing out stock components (like joints, etc.) and getting into stickier situations and such.
I found a 1985 Blazer, a California truck with a 1991 FWC. The back had a little blazer sag so I thought I would raise the truck 4". I did not take into consideration the loss of height the springs had when new. So my 4" lift turned out to be almost 8 inches from where the truck sat pre lift. Wish I would have went with a 2" lift. Food for thought if anyone is updating an older truck. Just remembered, the avatar is pre lift.
No lift on this rig, I don't need it at this point. Down the road if I start hitting terrain requiring it I'll ponder my options and truck selection more.
I've ran rigs with 8" lifts and such in the past and that combined with youthful vigor usually means you're going to be wrenching a fair amount, haha. Since now you are stressing out stock components (like joints, etc.) and getting into stickier situations and such.